French Car Forum

The GS series are lovely to drive. Simpler than the D, but with everything tickety-boo the ride is unequalled. Pity they don't do sixty to the gallon, not thirty!

They are indeed, I swear mine was the best car I have owned. As said, shame about the petrol economy.

POTD? Penny hasn't dropped with me! Precious Old Transport Devices - Naaah . . .

Picture(s) of the day thread, just about the FCF's most active topic. The GS in the snow would be a perfect submission.

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Regards Neil

Could be leaves blocking the drain holes under the bonnet - wherever they might be!

I had the same and there is a rubber 'vent' thing at the top of the wheel arch, squeeze it so it opens and loads of crap and water will come out.

Flush it out with a hose once it is flowing to clear out any remaining debris.

My GSA had the same problem - an L...

They are stainless.

You have to lever out the high/low beam switch. Use a plastic lever so you won't damage it. Then you will see sort of circular spring clip type thing holding the headlight switch barrel in place. be careful not to damage the clip else the fingers lose springiness and the barrel won't stay in its place when you reassemble it. Also, there are pins...

Hiya,
Yes that's usually my first port of call for GSA parts but I couldn't find anything that fits the description.
Chevronics has the outside ones but supposedly nil stock on inside ones, I'm told.
I need to replace the window regulator so want the parts replaced at the same time.
Cheers,
Sam

Just an update.
Having been 'put off' from ordering from 'Mr. Auto' (parts allegedly slow in arriving, and any refunds likewise), I ordered from Chevronics. The only difference between the GS and the GSA rear box is the final bends in the tail pipe. GSA and GS are the same other than that, and will fit. No difference in pipe diameters. Walkers...

Deafened by the 'silence'?
I have not done one myself, but the Haynes and Autobook series have the procedure. Do you have either? Or shall I plagiarise a bit? Basically it's getting stuff out of the way to drift, or use a rawlbolt to extract the silentbloc bushes (so it is said!).

I've been through all that - pretty light on details though. There is a facebook page for it, looks like they are still actively raced in large numbers in France.

Contacted Autocar yesterday after they had my kit for a couple of weeks, and got a reply straight away. They have found the module in good order, and are sending me a new silver MS4 coil to replace the green one. It's being despatched today.

if after fitting I still have no spark, and as the car runs fine on the points set-up which shows that...

Sounds like you may have an issue with corrosion and/or connections. Amongst other things fuse holder clips can cause wierd results that defy logic - unless your an auto electrician!! And I'm not - Mike Phelan would be one such bod, but he's over on the 2cvGB forum as a rule.

Not exactly 'on topic' but my last regular bike would extinguish the...

Thanks - Wish I didn't have the manual remote control mirror, it would be far easier.

...On the lower valance I guess that would need to be swapped actually. I've had a look on the Chevronics website and they list a different part for GS/GSA.

Thanks for the links.
Looks like they look the same except for the bumper attachment points.

Thanks everyone for the help, I found out the motor needed new piston rings that was the issue after sitting in storage for 17 years it needed a minor rebuild and cleaning.

Singe point injection systems can work very well if properly set up, and I'd say far better than a carb in anything other than absolutely top-notch condition that's been tuned on a rolling road etc.

Grafting a system onto a car that's never been designed for one isn't a small undertaking, but it's certainly not impossible. If the car normally has...

Is it me or the GSA wiring diagram completely useless?

If not 3D printed, then if you have all the parts of the piece, get it milled out of nylon....any good machine shop can pantograph a flat part like that very quickly.

Assuming the female thread of the rod end goes all the way in, shorten the threaded section of the new rod to simply match the old one. The rest of the rod looks more or less right.
Get the tracking professionally checked afterwards.

Did you brake to hard ?

Thank you Mac. They are shank bolts, and specifically 'stretch' bolts, so not supposed to be used twice. Yeah, right. None in hand just now and am using 'used'. Done it before with flywheel bolts, though never with big end bolts (different engine).

Well - it does work, but not sure exactly when it kicks in as it seems to be suffering from intermittent ground fault.
At standing still, the light came on steady with ~6 litre left but it goes out when moving.
I'll have to try again when I'm back on the usual commuting route - just did ~400km open road trip this weekend. I should have brought...

right - you jokers well and truly put me off....
i'll just have to soldier on til summer. it's not so after all...
cheers.

Hi
Finaly I sucsseided to upload photos. :)

The carburetor is a simple device in essence, being fed by a low pressure pump like a lift pump on a diesel, and which delivers a flow of fuel atomised by a flow of air in carefully regulated amounts according to throttle and choke controls. Unlike the high pressure diesel pump, it does not require specialised test equipment for it to be...

Here is the template. The hole is the thread diameter so you might want to drill a tad larger.

ha ha very funny! :rofl2:

All still going well. Got the last bit of chrome trim on. The ones that go around the rear side glass. They are the worst to fit as they go on the window rubbers. Luckily the inside of my garage was warm as the sun was out, and the help of some duck oil, they eventually went on!

Next is the rear spheres.

A couple of photsos from Drive it Day.

Straight ahead it should be around 8'o'clock.

It does vary though. Mine is fitted at 4 o'clock because it is RHD.

30° below horizontal towards outside of car. (Rep Man 810, Vol 1 - April '74)
the arm should be on the left-hand side, at an angle of about 30° below the horizontal ( the > position). (Rep Man 810, Vol 2 - undated)
30° below...

oh, and also, whats the colour? never seen one in that shade before, I quite like it.

Both now fitted. Plus a useful tip:
It's very awkward to fit these properly into the CV joint ao a bit of a ponder was needed; if you get a thin strip of thin metal (I used a scrap tube of a garden light), wrap it round the fitted clip and use a tie-wrap to compress the clip so it fits the splines, the CV joint can be gently tapped on until the...

Had no problem with Ligarex - made a tool like the 'real' one from a pair of circlip pliers from a Pound Shop years ago!

Hi and welcome to the Forum Dave. I'm going to post this into the Wanted / For Sale section for you too, just in case.
Many thanks. I couldn't see the For sale or to buy Forum, but then I was working off a phone screen so obviously over looked. Thanks again.

The shop replaced the pads and it's quiet as a ninja (well, I could still hear a faint amount, coming downhill, guessing that may have something to do with even less braking force on the rear - but it's way more tolerable)
Apparently they were original pads (doesn't surprise me)

Are they still trying to flog that thing

been about for some time now

^ yes, same pitch but much shorter bolts to hold the end plates on.

Thanks for the link, ECAS would most likely have been my second attempt. As it was I got 30mm x 9mm from Suffolk Fasteners, here in Ipswich - 5 for £10 incl postage, so I save a fiver or more over ECAS prices. but useful to know that they were also used for the handbrake...

I always do my tracking with a threaded rod slid inside a length of steel electrical conduit. Adjust the length so it just touches the widest part of the tyre about level with the bottom of the wheel, a brick is about the right height, slide it to the back of the wheel and observe the gap or other wise, about 1mm is about right for most wheels...

Pilkingtons make them new.

Sometimes there is a bit of a wait, but they have the tooling. Even if they didn't have the tooling, they'd make it (for a price).

I had similar with mine. No indicators or instruments. After some investigation, I found it was the ignition switch. A bit of a pig to change, but one changed all was well.
Thanks - I did look at the ignition switch for a different reason (offset from the key hole) and it looked a bit awkward. I hope I won't have to change it, fingers crossed......

I think all the early Citroens were brilliantly designed, the CX, was my favourite, never had a DS but I suspect that was even better, its a pity all that innovation is no longer with us.

Peter

The spoiler actually has a provision for wiper motor hole but looks very ugly from what I've seen on the internet photos. Mine is a second hand unit from Chevronics and it came with the hole butchered open. I managed to find a rubber plug to fill that (as well as wiper motor hole on the hatch).

More GS's on Ebay:

Just watched that film again, and spotted another. All in Italian, but the images make up for much. Again a film from the seventies. 15mins long:

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thanks fellas

I think I'll slip in a partition of some sort - I might have a flat fibreglass panel somewhere...
As for the stereo opening on mine, it might have been cut at the dealer when sold new - It looks to be very precisely cut, but I think I can make out a bit of burr at places and it's definitely not molded in that shape from the factory.
I think your...

hmm I think series 2 GS pallas one looks the best - it's gonna cost me some pretty pennies though...
thanks

SX6 works like a charm. cheers.

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Hi

So today I wanted to drive to work but after a few km-s I realised that clutch pedal feels different and the clutch is slipping. It happened overnight. How bad is clutch on them to change? Does it mean engine off??

Had a problem like this back in the day and took the engine out twice replacing the clutch assembly. I found the problem to be...

I would suggest contacting Julian Marsh: or Rob Moss: