French Car Forum

Yep, as above, the system should be vacuumed down first, otherwise no guarantee that moisture is removed and there are no leaks.
The original problem could have been something as simple as the needle valve sticking (which can be due to corrosion due to moisture in the system).

Is it possible to work this needle valve manually with the system...

And if you don't get the system vacuumed down first, you don't know if it is leak free and it it might also have moisture still in it - which is bad news!
So, best to avoid the can refills and get it checked by a specialist, or even a fast fit re-charge place.

Had a chat with my garage mate today about the air-con gas pricing, he tells me that last year he was paying £60 a bottle for the stuff, this year same stuff £340 a bottle.

Thank you

Ok, that makes sense, seems I was overthinking it a bit.

Thanks for the reply, I'll fit the unit and leave the connection loose until I get to the refill station.

I should have said the garage didn't want to get and fit a unit due to the cost - it was almost 700€ over here. The owner didn't want me to feel as though he was ripping me off on charges, the reason why he said if I get the unit he would fit...

I think that the presence of a logged cooling fault has disabled the A/C.

See: for details of a possible fix.

Not overly difficult but you'll more than likely need a special tool to separate the spring lock connector where the metal section connects onto the metal pipe by the inner wing, they aren't expensive or difficult to find, a quick google will reveal all.

Here's an example of the tool

The top panel is clipped to the bumper, I replaced the condenser on my 2009 C5 without removing the bumper, unfortunately I can't recall the exact details as it was a few years ago but IIRc it went in from above.

It got frightened!

My first guess is the compressor clutch or its freewheel bearing.

Or maybe a delaminating dual-mass crankshaft pulley.

Hi BalloonFish, and welcome to the Forum.

That's a clear and detailed description of the problem.

There's a good bit of Citroen service information on the Xantia AC system here (see p.282 onwards; index up front):

The system is designed not to operate if there is insufficient gas in the unit, to prevent damage. Check that it has been...

you need one of the extended motors, I brought one off ebay, part number 6447TK it has an extended spindle, if you look through the thread on the 5th post there is a picture of all 3 types of motor, the brass cog is the new version and the longer spindle is for if the plastic has already broken

if its passenger side remove glove box and its the...

XD Will get from a saxo the parts and looming XD

2014 will be a warranty job surely? Take it back till they fix it! Otherwise try another dealer that actually understands AC systems - although if the computer says no, then all bets may be off....!

Ok update so far, at the garage and after 2 hours, have been informed it is the compressor that has gone to Air Con heaven (or Hell in this case). So just waiting for the call regarding Warranty authorisation later today [-o<

When the system was refilled, the pressures should have been checked with the engine running, this would have immediately shown the health of the compressor.

The operation of the fan is (almost certainly) not dependent on the condition of the compressor.

Does the low speed fan come on if you leave the engine idling long enough to heat up the...

As the original poster I thought I would just post a follow up on this thread now that it has been resurrected.
The aircon system has been untouched since my original post and it is still behaving exactly the same and still very cold so it would appear that I have not lost much gas in the intervening period.
Thanks to Daniel for taking the trouble...

This sensor for Dacia Duster works just fine :)

Just to be clear, is the problem.

1. The fans don't turn on inside the car.

2. When you press the ac button nothing happens.

Try setting the system for defrost, as that should automatically bypass the water temperature sensor to narrow things down a little.

Not sure if the problem was the stepper motor , the ecu or the control unit, but the flap was stuck, possibly frozen due to the extreme cold and condensation. I managed to get the motor out, open up the reduction gear and manually turn the cog that moves the flap, I now have heat ! Not pretty , but I don't care, at least I can drive the car to...

Hi All,

Well put 4 pin relay in and the fans are working. Left fan a bit sticky will require some lubrication.

Yep that's true, had it myself. Is the external temperature reading correctly?

Peter

Forgot to mention: on my compressor at least, the clutch bearing is not adjustable - its a preloaded double row angular contact job. Any wear at all and it will develop play.

Well, I don't know what happened to my post. So oil continue here.

Exactly where it always was Shaun

Here:

Locking this one, revert to the original topic please :)

Back to this again :? . Heater/aircon fan started playing up again. Yes the aircon switch lights up, but this happens without aircon, on fan only. Any ideas please?

Thank you V6 :) , or is it :cry: ??
I wonder if anyone knows as to which type leaks between the halves. Mine is Nov 2000 manufacture. Could have another go and see if I can read off the numbers if that will throw any light on it. Any one any more info?? Will any late model compressor fit? Thanks.....
Regards

specialist's it is then :-/

cheers

BT

Just for once I saw it coming!
Made a temporary garden wire release loop through the grille.
Actually, it works quite well. I'll leave it for a while, just so people can say 'What's that ...?'
Mike

Wouldn't changing the pressure switch require de-gassing the system? (or if not de-gassed, would mean you had let all the gas out anyway?)

Best thing to do would be to plug in a lexia and monitor what happens, if you know anyone nearby that has one? Using that, you can tell if it's getting the right inputs to switch the a/c on and what pressure...

My second c5 did that. It's likely either the temperature flap seized or the spindle worn or both. Most likely a dash out to fix it. One of the reasons why I did not fix my car when I bashed it and sold it on.

I've head that a Dettol spray does the trick - not standard Dettol but the clear kitchen cleaner stuff.

Oh really through the tube under the car?
No, remove the pollen filter and spray it in.

ok thanks will try asap.

Ah, they are both hiding down there are they? Spotted one but couldn't see the other. Will have a crawl around tomorrow if we're not buried under six feet of snow! Be useful to know which are the high and low pressure lines, though I imagine it's pretty obvious which is the liquid and gas line based on the pipe diameter anyway.

Access did look to...

It sounds as though someone has re-gassed it without looking for leaks.

Nope, the rear window heater works fine. It has been mentioned that the control module needs replacing but when I remove the passenger footwell trim, it looks packed with stuff and access almost impossible. Are there any other cures?

Trade price on 13.3kg of refrigerant is approx £55 +vat...

Well assuming it's like the Scenics there's multiple reasons. Some fault codes will stop the engine ECU from enabling the compressor clutch. A lack of refrigerant pressure will also be detected by the engine ECU with the same effect. A faulty refrigerant pressure sensor/connector/loom will have the same effect. I'd have the car linked up to a...

Excellent, thank you, will pm you my e-mail address.

Yes I wouldn't be tackling this if I didn't have to basically take the dash/heater box out anyway (leaking matrix and to fit stereo steering wheel remote control adapter) so again, I'm basically gonna be halfway there - might as well go the whole hog! :D