Lucas EPIC Injection Pump Overhaul Guide

[CitroJim]

That's fully understood... If you do the job in-situ my advice will be to thoroughly clean the exterior of the pump until it shines and then surround it in a clean white cotton sheet so if anything does make a bid for freedom the sheet will catch it before it has a chance to escape into the dark corners of the engine bay and forever hide

Good luck sir!

[wesacosa]

Thanks, I will have a good read of the full procedure and see if I think its something I can deal with. Are there any plungers/springs in the top solenoids that might make a jump for it, or are they just in the ones on the rear face

The joys of old cars

[CitroJim]

The joys of old cars

They keep us out of mischief!

No I can't think of anything immediately that will really try to launch itself if you are just doing the ESOS valves and their housing...

But, even doing that there's a chance for small bits to sneak off, hence the white sheet advice

[moizeau]

The top solenoid bank comes off easily. There are only o rings underneath it. Be aware the cabling will be very fragile, or least it's insulation so minimal movement is key. As Jim said, clean everything around the solenoid bank to within an inch of it's life before removing it and use vaseline to hold thew new o rings in place prior to reassembly. This all presumes the leak is from the underside of the solenoid bank. If it's from the top a different procedure is required. Still very doable in situ.

[wesacosa]

yes the leak seems to be at the bottom. Its odd, its very heavy leak when you first start the car but stops pretty quickly and doesn't seem to leak noticeably after that. Car runs ok, only issue is it takes a couple of cranks to start it after leaving for a while

[wesacosa]

If I do end up going down the road of removing the pump, is the retiming of the pump as tricky as my quick skim through the Haynes procedure made it sound?

[moizeau]

No, mark it's position on it's mounting plate and replace it in the same place. Do you want a Lucas Epic repair manual? If so PM me your email and I'll send it you.

[wesacosa]

The Haynes said to mark the position but then it still needed checking and adjusting using some kind of rod tool. If you have a manual you are willing to share with me that would be fantastic. Thank you. I will pm you. Cheers

[moizeau]

On it's way, it's not a 'black art' like some specialists pretend as long as everything is clean and you are methodical.

[CitroJim]

On it's way, it's not a 'black art' like some specialists pretend as long as everything is clean and you are methodical.

Yes, absolutely so Remember Haynes will be engaging in a degree of arse-covering. Static timing on an EPIC pump is not quite as critical as on a fully mechanical pump as the timing is dynamically electronically controlled...

The only 'gotcha' is the woodruff key loves to make a bid for freedom when popping the pump back on its sprocket if you do it whilst leaving the cambelt and sprocket in place - absolutely the way to do it without disturbing the cambelt. It's why the pump sprocket has two timing index holes in it - so it will hold firm and in place with the pump removed... To make the key behave, smear it it loads of Vaseline and wrap a white sheet all around the cambelt/sprocket area... I once had one leap into the dark depths and had to have the cambelt and crank sprocket off to retrieve it!

You'll need a small puller to pop the pump driveshaft out of the sprocket taper... One is easily made up using a bit of ally bar and two M7 bolts to screw into tapped holes on the sprocket face provided for that purpose. I have the pictures of the design and method of use somewhere and indeed, a search of this forum should find it. If you can't, let me know and I'll dig the pictures out from my archive...

[CitroJim]

The pump sprocket puller..

As made...

Dimensions...

And in use...

Engine removed for clarity :)

[wesacosa]

thanks all for the help. Any suggestions on best kit to use for the seals ? I assume they are still avaialble?

[moizeau]

Delphi genuine kit, last time I bought one it was about 40€. You have some seals leftover because it does the PSA and Merc version. Be aware, you have to work out which o rings replace what as they are not numbered or marked up.
Part number is 9109-750

[moizeau]

The only part that can be unplugged is the round 13 wire connector that plugs into the vehicle end. The wires going into the pump are soldered, these are the fragile bits. If you're taking the pump off, when using a puller (as Jim posted), or rather in this case a 'pusher' only undo the sprocket nut a few turns, just enough for it to pop off it's taper. This way there is no way you can damage the spindle and it also allows for a 'controlled' removal because the pump doesn't try to leap into the engine bay and the key can removed easier. There is one of the pump mounting bolts underneath at the back that needs an elaborate socket, extension, knuckle configuration using both 1/2" and 3/8 to gain access.

[CitroJim]

Pete, yes, it is indeed a 'Pusher' And excellent advice about doing it with the nut still loosely attached

Bosch kits also give you a large pile of O rings and various washers with no guide as to what they're for My last kit had more left over than I ever found places and uses for!