C4GP EGS Gearbox removal (video)

[Chefslot]

[GiveMeABreak]

Ok, sorry about the delay - here you go - I've also included the Piloted Gearbox Settings too in case Haynes have it all wrong as commonly happens
Aything else missing, let me know.

Reference	Designation	Tightening torque
(1)	Bolts and nuts Coupling of gearbox on engine	5,4 daNm
(2)	Screw fixing the hydraulic clutch bearing	2,2 daNm
(3)	Screw fixing the gearbox impacter	6 daNm

Reference	Designation	Tightening torque
(4)	Screw fixing the piloting actuator	2,2 daNm
(5)	6th gear cover fixing screw	2 daNm
(6)	Gearbox housing / clutch housing fixing screws	2,2 daNm
(7)	drain plug	4 daNm
(8)	Pressure accumulator	8 daNm

Reference	Designation	Tightening torque
(9)	Union (High pressure pipes )	2,2 daNm
(10)	Union (High pressure pipes )	1,8 daNm

Reference	Designation	Tightening torque
(11)	Flange retaining screw	1,8 daNm
(12)	Input shaft end piece bolt	18,2 daNm
(13)	Output shaft end piece bolt	10 daNm
(14)	Closer on the 3/4 fork balls channel	1,6 daNm
(15)	Closer on the 5/6 fork balls channel (reverse gear)	4 daNm

Reference	Designation	Tightening torque
(16)	Linking bracket screw	2,3 daNm
(17)	Bolt Input shaft rotation sensor	1 daNm

Subframe

Reference	Designation	Tightening torque
(1)	Bolt (Front subframe extensions)	5 daNm
(2)	Nut (Front sub-frame tie rods )	2 daNm
(3)	Bolt (Front subframe) (*)	9,8 daNm
(4)	Bolt-nut assembly (Lower suspension arm / Front subframe) (*)	11,1 daNm
(5)	Bolt (Front anti-roll bar bearings) (*)	10 daNm
(6)	Bolt (Front subframe rear mounting reinforcement / Body) (*)	10 daNm
(7)	Bolt (Front subframe front lower crossmember ) (*)	5 daNm

(*) Always to be replaced whenever removed

Struts

Reference	Designation	Tightening torque
(1)	Nut (Suspension strut / Body) (*)	7,5 daNm
(2)	Nut (Front damper upper cup)	8 daNm
(3)	Nut (Front anti-roll bar rod / Front shock absorber) (*)	4,3 daNm
(4)	Nut (Front anti-roll bar rod) (*)	4,3 daNm
(5)	Nut (Front pivot lower ball-joint / Lower arm) (*)	4,2 daNm
(6)	Nut (Front pivot lower ball-joint / Front pivot)	23 daNm
(7)	Hub nut (*)	31,2 daNm
(8)	Bolt-nut assembly (Damper spring assembly / Front pivot) (*)	8 daNm

(*) Always to be replaced whenever removed

[GiveMeABreak]

Here you go Chef: I'll see what I have on the last point of your question shortly.

Reference	Designation	Tightening torque
(1)	Nut (Steering universal joint / Valve stem) (*)	2 daNm
(2)	Bolt (Steering column / Crossmember)	2,2 daNm
(3)	Nut (Steering column / Crossmember)	0,7 daNm

(*) Always to be replaced whenever removed

Reference	Designation	Tightening torque
(1)	Nut (Steering ball joint) (*)	4,5 daNm
(2)	Union (Hydraulic pipe / Distribution valve)	0,8 daNm
(3)	Bolt (Bracket / Distribution valve)	1,9 daNm
(4)	Bolt (Distribution valve / Steering mechanism)	2 daNm
(5)	Union (Hydraulic pipe / Steering ram)	0,8 daNm
(6)	Stud (Steering mechanism)	0,9 daNm
(7)	Nut (Steering mechanism) (*)	10 daNm
(8)	Steering rod	7 daNm
(9)	Locknut (Adjusting the steering track rods)	7,5 daNm

(*) Always to be replaced whenever removed

Reference	Designation	Tightening torque
(1)	Nut (Electro-pump / Chassis leg)	2 daNm
(2)	Bolt (Bracket / Electro-pump)	2 daNm
(3)	Bolt (Electro-pump / Chassis leg)	2,3 daNm

RH Engine Support

Reference	daNm
(1)	6 ± 0,6
(2)	6 ± 0,6
(3)	4,5 ± 0,4

LH engine support

Reference	daNm
(4)	1 ± 0,1
(5)	6,5 ± 0,6
(6)	1,9 ± 0,2
(7)	3 ± 0,3
(8)	6 ± 0,6
(9)	5 ± 0,5

Lower engine mounting

Reference	daNm
(10)	6 ± 0,6
(11)	4 ± 0,4

MCP Piloted Manual Gearbox

Reference	daNm
(14)	6 ± 0,9

[GiveMeABreak]

As for Depressurising / Pressurising & Bleeding:

1. Depressurizing the system

• Connect the diagnostic equipment to the vehicle’s diagnostic socket.
• Switch on the ignition.
• Using the diagnostic tool : Select : Depressurisation of the hydraulic circuit.
• All the oil contained in the electrohydraulic actuator unit and in the pressure accumulator returns to the piloting actuator hydraulic reservoir.
• The piloting actuator hydraulic circuit is no longer pressurised.

2. Repressurising

• Connect the diagnostic equipment to the vehicle’s diagnostic socket.
• Switch on the ignition.
• Using the diagnostic equipment : Select : Pressurising the hydraulic circuit.
• The electric motor of the electrohydraulic actuator unit operates for a few seconds.
• The piloting actuator hydraulic circuit is pressurised.

3. Bleeding the hydraulic circuit

• Connect the diagnostic equipment to the vehicle’s diagnostic socket.
• Switch on the ignition.
• Select: In the diagnostic tool menu :
• The vehicle
• The RPO no.
• Perform the global test.
• Using the diagnostic equipment: Select: Bleeding the hydraulic circuit.
• The diagnostic tool pressurises the piloting actuator hydraulic circuit, changing through all the gears in order to force air out of the circuit.

[RichardW]

Note you will need an external power supply to get it to program, battery charger or jump it off another (running) car. There might be a clutch adjustment in Diagbox, otherwise just pull away hard a few times.

[Chefslot]

Marc, could you give me the code/part number for the bolt #70. Nothing is showing up from what catcar gives. http://www.catcar.info/citroen/?lang=en ... aWVyPT0%3D
Also nut #3, it's not just a flange nut, but grade 10 with a nylock insert, impossible to find. Again catcar part number does show a few items but nothing on fleabay.
http://www.catcar.info/citroen/?lang=en ... aWVyPT0%3D

Wish you all a merry Christmas or festive times, or just times off ^^

[GiveMeABreak]

Ok, no problem.

No 70 is part number: 350957 (Screw with Base), dimensions: 12X175-85 - £3.49 inc. VAT
No 3 is part number: 4010F7 (Hexagonal Nut), dimensions 12X150 - £2.87 inc. VAT

These are prices from Citroen.

Have a great holiday.

[Chefslot]

There should be an option to depressure on the diagbox, mine was all ready done as it lost all the hydraulic oil. I guess if it is in neutral and no clutch is applied then it should come off, but your going to want to reset the clutch through the system anyway after you have done it. My only concern would be if you dropped the box with all that pressure inside could do some really nasty damage, funnily enough there is a pressure vessel under the box which looks like a nade, so I certainly wouldn't even entertain the idea of it. Pressure is evil!!
I would also replace the bearing, £90, peace of mind. You may need bolts for the sub frame, be able to source a welder if the chassis nut spins, new lower joints as I wrecked mine, use a ball joint splitter like I did, stupid ball joint protectors and a lot of force getting the ball joints back in. If you do spill some oil from the hydraulics £20 from eBay, fiat one is the same. My clutch came with alignment tool, maybe clutch replacement tool, I made mine I will try to get some videos up!!

[Chefslot]

Alright, Yeah I know I will need to run diagbox after the reinstall but then I might not worry so much about depressure When I take the gearbox out then. Any Idea of the wieght of the box? Of course, the bearing should be replaced. I managed to get the joints out with no damage using a crowbar. Took the axle, hub and disc out in one piece. The hydraulik container is full of oil and I have not had any leaks so I Hope I wont need to mess with that. Ive also seen videos where people mount clutch without the special tool, I think I’ll try it as the tool i so expensive.

Ok i will say again,,, i really wouldn't recommend removal without depressurising the system. I'm waiting for Marc to get back to me in regards to the second video, but i also made a tool for the clutch out of some metal i had laying around. I'll try and get that posted up for tomorrow night and link it in for you.
Ok i'm jealous you go them out with a crowbar, so now i'm not going to help you no more hahaha only joking, the box is move-able buy one person when out, but heavy and awkward when lowering, and that one fell of the jack whilst trying to pull it out. I figured it might and all ready had a nice foam padding cushion for it. Trying to put it in was a two man job also! I used my modified clutch tool as a kind of gearbox cradle but didnt really work. It took two jacks in the end! As for weight i will say about a sack of spuds.
Also on mine i had to remove the lower subframe, this was where the captive nut became uncaptive!!
I took a long time doing this one, like a few months from start to finish, but had my daughter, awaiting parts, taking my time etc. Someone said you could do it in a weekend, of course it is do-able if you have done before, parts ordered tools all ready etc, mine was done outside on a uneven drive way which didn't help.
Regards

[GiveMeABreak]

Thanks for posting these Chef. - ! You did all the work and boy, what a job - I don't envy you - but really pleased it's all back up and running.

Very nice of you to mention the FCF too in your video, thanks very much - appreciated. I'm sure these videos will help others consider tackling the job who may find the prospect a bit daunting.

I've removed some posts and locked this thread to keep the focus on the instructional videos and the other information - specifically for this 'How To' section. The original thread with all posts and content is located on the link below, to which any further posts or comments by members should be made.

Link to Original Thread