Hello
Car: Renault Megane 1.6 R Plate
Problem: Lost Alloy wheel key
Incredible but true. It seems that because my father has lost the key to his alloy wheels (or was never given one with the car (bought second hand)) he cannot remove the wheels.
It went into the garage for a routine service, and has now been there for 3 days, they cannot get the wheels off. It is a Renault Garage, on the outskirts of Bristol, England. Should it take this long? And what is involved in this job?
Last we heard they were using an acetaline (?) torch to cut the wheels free. Surely this is over the top. There must be an easier way to sort this out than these bizarre routes...
Any response would be greatly appreciated, my father is really worried about an esculating bill.....
Regards
Tony
Alloy Wheels need to be cut off!!!!!! Help!
-
- Posts: 1503
- Joined: 26 Feb 2003, 10:52
- x 16
That sounds a bit extreme. The local wheels & tyre specialists here have a variety of keys to unlock locking wheelnuts, and are seldom defeated.
There are other ways of getting them off without destroying the wheels if all the universal keys fail. A popular workshop technique in my day was to mig weld a nut to the top of the locking wheel nut, then just undo it as normal.
After removal a new set of locking wheel nuts, or indeed standard nuts could be fitted, with no damage caused.
There are other ways of getting them off without destroying the wheels if all the universal keys fail. A popular workshop technique in my day was to mig weld a nut to the top of the locking wheel nut, then just undo it as normal.
After removal a new set of locking wheel nuts, or indeed standard nuts could be fitted, with no damage caused.
-
- Posts: 138
- Joined: 26 Sep 2001, 04:39
I lost my "key". Made a cast of the locking wheel bolt with bluetack (lightly oiled so it didn't stick), ans made a replacement from an old 1/2" socket uning an angle grinder. Slow job as the steel is so hard.
If the fastener is a bolt, rather than a nut, it's possible to drill a hole in each bolt and use a stud remover. To minimise the risk of breakage - the largest size remover should be used.
If it's a nut, the stud can be drilled out, the wheel removed, the remaining part of the stud removed and replaced with a new one. Need to check if spares are available, otherwise new hubs would be needed. Price?
I recall that Sealey Tools sell a "universal" locking wheel nut remover. Worth checking. There is also a socket called a Gattor. This grips odd shapped nuts.
If the fastener is a bolt, rather than a nut, it's possible to drill a hole in each bolt and use a stud remover. To minimise the risk of breakage - the largest size remover should be used.
If it's a nut, the stud can be drilled out, the wheel removed, the remaining part of the stud removed and replaced with a new one. Need to check if spares are available, otherwise new hubs would be needed. Price?
I recall that Sealey Tools sell a "universal" locking wheel nut remover. Worth checking. There is also a socket called a Gattor. This grips odd shapped nuts.
-
- Posts: 1
- Joined: 20 Aug 2003, 04:16
-
- RIP 2010
- Posts: 2542
- Joined: 26 Jan 2001, 15:53
- x 6
-
- Posts: 1503
- Joined: 26 Feb 2003, 10:52
- x 16
-
- RIP 2010
- Posts: 2542
- Joined: 26 Jan 2001, 15:53
- x 6
-
- Posts: 8
- Joined: 25 Aug 2003, 23:23
I know the original post here is a bit old, but here goes for any future problems. I used to work in a Performance Wheel And Tyre Specialist near Heathrow.
We never had any "Skeleton" keys, the manufacturers did not make them. All lock set were supplied with a code (bit like radios) and if you lost your key then the manufacturers could supply you with a new key. If you lost the code then basically you were knackered and it was left to us or the local car thief to get your wheels off. Over the course of about three years, I think we failed once. We use to get an old Impact Socket, the matt black ones, not the chrome ones as they split. The socket was the next size down from the size of the wheel nuts. Bang this on over the locknut using a club hammer and the undo as normal. Provided the Locknut was not tightened with a air gun then they would come off quite easily. If theywere very tight, then a cold chisle and hammer just to loosen off worked just fine.
The Acetalyn the original post mentioned may have been to heat up the locknut, rather than to cut off the wheels.
We never had any "Skeleton" keys, the manufacturers did not make them. All lock set were supplied with a code (bit like radios) and if you lost your key then the manufacturers could supply you with a new key. If you lost the code then basically you were knackered and it was left to us or the local car thief to get your wheels off. Over the course of about three years, I think we failed once. We use to get an old Impact Socket, the matt black ones, not the chrome ones as they split. The socket was the next size down from the size of the wheel nuts. Bang this on over the locknut using a club hammer and the undo as normal. Provided the Locknut was not tightened with a air gun then they would come off quite easily. If theywere very tight, then a cold chisle and hammer just to loosen off worked just fine.
The Acetalyn the original post mentioned may have been to heat up the locknut, rather than to cut off the wheels.