HELP!
I was trying to change the brakes on my scenic but the person that put the wheels on last time must have done them up way too tight as I have snapped 2 of them on one side.
I did try drilling them out a bit but my bits are not that good and keep going blunt.
I can see from the back that the bolts go all the way through and I was thinking that I may be able to grip them from the other side and get them out that way. I wanted to use some release oil but am not sure how to get it into the thread to soak in.
Any ideas as to solving this problem would be most welcome.
Adrian.
Scenic 1.6 98 broken wheel bolts
-
AndersDK
- Posts: 6060
- Joined: 21 Feb 2003, 04:56
- x 1
Re: Scenic 1.6 98 broken wheel bolts
Thats your only chance.haymaker wrote:I can see from the back that the bolts go all the way through and I was thinking that I may be able to grip them from the other side and get them out that way. I wanted to use some release oil but am not sure how to get it into the thread to soak in.
You will keep getting blunt or snapped drills if you try drill the trapped bit out.
A mole grip will be your best tool, and If you really gets in trouble you should try get the trapped bit out the right way - i.e. winding it out from behind until it protrudes from the hub so you can get a positive grip with your mole. It may even be possible using Stilsons for a really good grip then.
Replacement bolts should be easy to obtain from your nearest breaker yard as they will most certainly be a standard type fitting several Europeen car makes and models.
If you have (or can lend) any kind of of a torque wrench, then torque your wheelbolts to some 10kgf, no more is needed.
TIP : next time you face a really stubborn wheelbolt, its better spending the time and drive to any nearby garage which have an airtool.
Let them undo all 16/20 bolts and then only nip them op correctly again.
Despite the immense power the airtool can loosen the bolts not snapping them.
Anders (DK) - '90 BX16Image
-
haymaker
- Posts: 3
- Joined: 14 Jul 2008, 13:07
OK, so I have spoken to a couple of people and they are giving me conficting advice.
A mechanic friend had a quick look and said the best thing is to just buy new discs as the ones on the car are a bit warn anyway. He ways its an easy job to do.
However, the guy in my local car spare shop insists that the bolts go through the hub as well as the disc and I would not be able to get it off the car without getting the broken bolt out.
Can anyoune that has changed the discs let me know which is correct and what tool I need to remove them. It looks like a torx socket but I dont know what size.
Thanks in advance.
A mechanic friend had a quick look and said the best thing is to just buy new discs as the ones on the car are a bit warn anyway. He ways its an easy job to do.
However, the guy in my local car spare shop insists that the bolts go through the hub as well as the disc and I would not be able to get it off the car without getting the broken bolt out.
Can anyoune that has changed the discs let me know which is correct and what tool I need to remove them. It looks like a torx socket but I dont know what size.
Thanks in advance.
-
AndersDK
- Posts: 6060
- Joined: 21 Feb 2003, 04:56
- x 1
Something is rotten in the kingdom of Denmark 
Now you talk brake discs that can not be removed -
You started asking about broken wheelbolts ?
Just to make sure we agree to solve the problem in the kingdom of the Scenic :
1) We have a wheel hub. This is a lumpy circular steel part that rotates on the axle. Its got a pattern of threaded holes to take the wheelbolts. It will most likely also have 2 minor threaded holes to take the brake disc locating screws, usually a metric 5 or 6mm thread.
2) On the wheelhub goes the brake disc, which is located and fixed by the 2 small screws. The only purpose of these 2 small screws is to locate the disc to the hub, such the holes for the wheel bolts in both hub an disc lines up.
One or both of these 2 small screws may in fact have a pegged head such you can catch a matching hole in the wheel rim.
If one of these screws are broken, the best method is to drill them out as these screws commonly will be mild steel. You may need a high quality "golden" drillbit.
The screws must be removed in order to remove the brake disc.
3) on to the brake disc goes the wheel. Most likely such you catch a pegged screw - exactly to line up the bolt holes in the rim, the disc and the hub. This makes it very easy to fit the wheelbolts.
If one or more of these whelbolts breaks off - it will not be a problem in terms of removing the wheel - or the brake disc. You just have to remove the broken bit from the hub, to orderly fit the wheel again later with a new bolt.
These bolts are commonly hardened steel and of large thickness (12mm) prohibiting standard drilling work procedures. Instead you can usually grip the end of the snapped bolt from behind the hub to remove the snapped bit.
4) the brake disc is known to bind like welded on to the hub - because of rust in the center hole tight fitting. This has nothing to do with any snapped or broken wheel bolts remnants still residing in some of their holes.
But it makes you think why on earth you decided to start work on the damn thing ...
An easy method to break the tight rusty fitting of brake discs is to re-fit the roadwheels and take a careful low speed trip round the block - using the brakes with a light foot.
The trick is that the wheelbolts must not be fully tighten. Once nipped up, back them off ½ a turn such the wheel and brakedisc can move just a wee bit during your cautiuos short drive. In this aspect its no concern you are missing a wheelbolt or 2.
Now - which situation are we discussing ? 2) or 3) or 4)
Now you talk brake discs that can not be removed -
You started asking about broken wheelbolts ?
Just to make sure we agree to solve the problem in the kingdom of the Scenic :
1) We have a wheel hub. This is a lumpy circular steel part that rotates on the axle. Its got a pattern of threaded holes to take the wheelbolts. It will most likely also have 2 minor threaded holes to take the brake disc locating screws, usually a metric 5 or 6mm thread.
2) On the wheelhub goes the brake disc, which is located and fixed by the 2 small screws. The only purpose of these 2 small screws is to locate the disc to the hub, such the holes for the wheel bolts in both hub an disc lines up.
One or both of these 2 small screws may in fact have a pegged head such you can catch a matching hole in the wheel rim.
If one of these screws are broken, the best method is to drill them out as these screws commonly will be mild steel. You may need a high quality "golden" drillbit.
The screws must be removed in order to remove the brake disc.
3) on to the brake disc goes the wheel. Most likely such you catch a pegged screw - exactly to line up the bolt holes in the rim, the disc and the hub. This makes it very easy to fit the wheelbolts.
If one or more of these whelbolts breaks off - it will not be a problem in terms of removing the wheel - or the brake disc. You just have to remove the broken bit from the hub, to orderly fit the wheel again later with a new bolt.
These bolts are commonly hardened steel and of large thickness (12mm) prohibiting standard drilling work procedures. Instead you can usually grip the end of the snapped bolt from behind the hub to remove the snapped bit.
4) the brake disc is known to bind like welded on to the hub - because of rust in the center hole tight fitting. This has nothing to do with any snapped or broken wheel bolts remnants still residing in some of their holes.
But it makes you think why on earth you decided to start work on the damn thing ...
An easy method to break the tight rusty fitting of brake discs is to re-fit the roadwheels and take a careful low speed trip round the block - using the brakes with a light foot.
The trick is that the wheelbolts must not be fully tighten. Once nipped up, back them off ½ a turn such the wheel and brakedisc can move just a wee bit during your cautiuos short drive. In this aspect its no concern you are missing a wheelbolt or 2.
Now - which situation are we discussing ? 2) or 3) or 4)
Anders (DK) - '90 BX16Image
-
haymaker
- Posts: 3
- Joined: 14 Jul 2008, 13:07
we are taking situation 3 in my case. So, does the brake disc have a thread that the wheel bolts lock on to? If I removed the wheel and the two gold small screws will the brake disc come away or are the 2 broken bolts going to be holding it in place and require me to remove the hub as well?
I can feel the bolts sticking out the back of the disc but am not sure if there is enough room to get some grips on that end to turn them, or is the only way to do this with the hub off the car?
I can feel the bolts sticking out the back of the disc but am not sure if there is enough room to get some grips on that end to turn them, or is the only way to do this with the hub off the car?
-
AndersDK
- Posts: 6060
- Joined: 21 Feb 2003, 04:56
- x 1
The holes in the brake discs are NOT threaded.
You will have to first remove the brake disc in order to get a proper work situation on the broken wheel bolts job.
To remove the brake discs - you have option 2) and option 4) above.
once you are in the work process - things comes pretty logic -
Get to work mate - its much easier than you fear
You will have to first remove the brake disc in order to get a proper work situation on the broken wheel bolts job.
To remove the brake discs - you have option 2) and option 4) above.
once you are in the work process - things comes pretty logic -
Get to work mate - its much easier than you fear
Anders (DK) - '90 BX16Image