How to Strip a Bosch Diesel Injection Pump
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How to Strip a Bosch Diesel Injection Pump
I have finally done it, thanks to the cold weather, and produced a guide to stripping a Bosch Diesel Injection Pump as fitted to many a Xantia 1.9TD. Earlier pumps without the electronic bits are very similar, as are non-turbo Bosch pumps.
The strip is what you would have to do in order to replace the seals most likely to leak. I do not recommend dismantling a pump of this nature any further lest the calibration of the thing be upset.
This is not an easy job at all and must be undertaken with extreme care and caution. In BoL-speak, a real 5 spanner job.
This was a scrap pump that had sprang a massive leak after running very high ratios of vegetable oil for an extended period. I've had it in bits before and for the past 6 months or so it has been been soaking in vegetable oil to enable some rough assessment to be made of any adverse effect the oil may have on the pump seals.
I found the seals had hardened quite considerably since my first and latest disassembly of this pump. I therefore believe (personal view only) that running high veg ratios is ultimately detrimental to the pump seals.
Here is the guide. It's on a slow link and the pictures may take a few moments to load...
http://www.eastment.net/Boschpump1.htm
The strip is what you would have to do in order to replace the seals most likely to leak. I do not recommend dismantling a pump of this nature any further lest the calibration of the thing be upset.
This is not an easy job at all and must be undertaken with extreme care and caution. In BoL-speak, a real 5 spanner job.
This was a scrap pump that had sprang a massive leak after running very high ratios of vegetable oil for an extended period. I've had it in bits before and for the past 6 months or so it has been been soaking in vegetable oil to enable some rough assessment to be made of any adverse effect the oil may have on the pump seals.
I found the seals had hardened quite considerably since my first and latest disassembly of this pump. I therefore believe (personal view only) that running high veg ratios is ultimately detrimental to the pump seals.
Here is the guide. It's on a slow link and the pictures may take a few moments to load...
http://www.eastment.net/Boschpump1.htm
Jim
Runner, cyclist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
Runner, cyclist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
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Re: How to Strip a Bosch Diesel Injection Pump
I hold the same belief especially if the seals are over 10 years old as they harden and shrink anyway. The seal on my pump that weeps is this one =citrojim wrote:
I found the seals had hardened quite considerably since my first and latest disassembly of this pump. I therefore believe (personal view only) that running high veg ratios is ultimately detrimental to the pump seals.
http://www.eastment.net/Boschpump1.htm
Excellent guide BTW Jim, maybe one day mine can have some new seals (around cambelt time!)
Gareth
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2017 Fiesta ST
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Re: How to Strip a Bosch Diesel Injection Pump
Is that failed seal around the back? If so, it may be the same with mine. When I began using SVO in high concentrations I mixed in some unleaded and that's when the leak showed. It's just weeping, the odd drip rather than a flowing leak. I agree with you about them needing changing after 10 years, maybe a manufacturers recommendation too?XantiaMan583 wrote:I hold the same belief especially if the seals are over 10 years old as they harden and shrink anyway. The seal on my pump that weeps is this one...
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If it is only the rear timing device cover seal leaking Gareth then that is easy in that the armour can stay in place but not so easy in that the pump still has to come off to change it
Having said that though, if you do it at cambelt change time, it's not so difficult as three parts of what you have to do to get the pump off is already done
Mike, you're right. getting teh armour off is a PITA and a half
I guess Bosch agents must have a better way but extensive searches (understandably) have not uncoverd it...

Having said that though, if you do it at cambelt change time, it's not so difficult as three parts of what you have to do to get the pump off is already done

Mike, you're right. getting teh armour off is a PITA and a half

Jim
Runner, cyclist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
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Well done Jim...Good clear pictures.
I had the main shaft seal split, and could not remove it without dismantling the whole pump.
May be there is a special puller for this task.
It required making up a box spanner from metal electrical conduit, welding 3 blobs on the inside, and filing to make a smug fit on the 3 sided heads on the pivot bolts.
Has anyone changed this seal without a pump dismantle?...
I had the main shaft seal split, and could not remove it without dismantling the whole pump.
May be there is a special puller for this task.
It required making up a box spanner from metal electrical conduit, welding 3 blobs on the inside, and filing to make a smug fit on the 3 sided heads on the pivot bolts.
Has anyone changed this seal without a pump dismantle?...
Brian - 86 Visa 17D Sorn(192K)/ 86 BX 17RD (220K) Scrapped/ 92 BX 17TZD Turbo Diesel (191K)
96 306 XRDT (174K)
96 306 XRDT (174K)
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Hi Dei,
It's not a bad job to remove the pump. No need to touch the cambelt. In brief:
1. Slip off the front timing cover, bring the engine to time and pop in two timing bolts into the pump sprocket.
2. Undo the sprocket nut.
3. Scribe a line across the pump body to the pump carrier bracket so that it can go back on exactly where it came from.
4. Disconnet electrics, throttle and fast idle cables and all pipes from the pump. Remove completely the pipes from the pump to injectors, sealing both ends of the pipes, the injectors and pump outlets to prevent dirt ingress. Seal all other orifices.
5. Remove the three pump mounting nuts and washers. The bottom one is tricky and you need a "Lazy C" shaped 13mm ring to get at it. Remove the rear mounting nut and washer.
6. Tease the pump out, taking care to recover the driveshaft woodruff key and not to "loose" it down behind the cambelt tensioner. Stiff a load of rag down there to prevent it falling too far.
7. Reinstallation is a reverse of disassembly noting that the mounting nuts and washers MUST be done up very tightly. The wasers MUST be replaced. If not, they'll shackle loose. The woodruff key can be held with a dab of grease to ensure it does not slip out whlist getting the pump sprocket back on.
It's not a bad job to remove the pump. No need to touch the cambelt. In brief:
1. Slip off the front timing cover, bring the engine to time and pop in two timing bolts into the pump sprocket.
2. Undo the sprocket nut.
3. Scribe a line across the pump body to the pump carrier bracket so that it can go back on exactly where it came from.
4. Disconnet electrics, throttle and fast idle cables and all pipes from the pump. Remove completely the pipes from the pump to injectors, sealing both ends of the pipes, the injectors and pump outlets to prevent dirt ingress. Seal all other orifices.
5. Remove the three pump mounting nuts and washers. The bottom one is tricky and you need a "Lazy C" shaped 13mm ring to get at it. Remove the rear mounting nut and washer.
6. Tease the pump out, taking care to recover the driveshaft woodruff key and not to "loose" it down behind the cambelt tensioner. Stiff a load of rag down there to prevent it falling too far.
7. Reinstallation is a reverse of disassembly noting that the mounting nuts and washers MUST be done up very tightly. The wasers MUST be replaced. If not, they'll shackle loose. The woodruff key can be held with a dab of grease to ensure it does not slip out whlist getting the pump sprocket back on.
I'll have a look into this next time I'm playing pumps and report back...G4EIY wrote:I had the main shaft seal split, and could not remove it without dismantling the whole pump.
Jim
Runner, cyclist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
Runner, cyclist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
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My main reason for doing this is for the MOT. I am assuming that if your vehicle leaks fuel of any description it will fail the MOT.
And on the other hand, my other mode of transport is a classic bike and fuel/oil on the road can lead to disaster.
Therefore IMHO, I think I have a responsibility to stop any oil/fuel leaks.
And on the other hand, my other mode of transport is a classic bike and fuel/oil on the road can lead to disaster.
Therefore IMHO, I think I have a responsibility to stop any oil/fuel leaks.
95 Xantia 1.9TD SX - Now sold
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where to get seals
Hi Jim,
I have the same pump and it is like a seive could you tell me where to get a set of seals so that i can repair my own pump?
cheers kev
I have the same pump and it is like a seive could you tell me where to get a set of seals so that i can repair my own pump?
cheers kev