405 steaming up!!

amjake · Unread post by **amjake** » 23 Oct 2005, 21:31

Hi all,

Car with all the rain is steaming up ie. rear passenger windows and estate load area. Will this be a problem because aircon not working.

Air con is dead as specialist says that hole caused by stone in condensor radiator.

2 questions would that be true? and anyone give an estimated cost of replacing as guy said front of car needs to come off?

Cheers
Jake

fastandfurryous · Unread post by **fastandfurryous** » 24 Oct 2005, 14:44

The steaming up will not be caused by not having working A/C, as when the A/C is off/failed, the car works just like any other non A/C car.

You either have wet carpets, a leak, or a leaky heater matrix... or some other way of water getting into the car.

I also had a hole in my condensor. £90 for a new one, and £35 for a re-gas had it working brilliantly. That was 2 seasons ago, and it's still working well. To replace the condensor doesn't need the front of the car removing.. just the radiator, and some air piping/filter etc.

Only problem then is that if you use the A/C on a 405, and then turn it off, the cold moisture on the fins of the evaporator warms up, and steams up the inside of the car. This is NOT the problem you have at the moment, as it needs the A/C to work. It's a bit of a design fault by Peugeot.

JohnD · Unread post by **JohnD** » 24 Oct 2005, 14:45

My Xantia got all steamed up during last winter and although the aircon seemed to be working, it wouldn't clear the dampness. I had the system re-gassed, and since then, it's been fine.

Unread post by **alan s** » 24 Oct 2005, 22:28

Jake,

In most cases as has been said, the radiator comes out to gain access to the condensor and it's highly unlikely (but not impossible) for other parts to have to come off the front to access the connections to r & r the condensor, but in most cases there are ways around that.
In the past on commercial refrigeration, I have had holes patched in condensors by using a very competant welder. He had a very sophistcated MIG and I have seen TIG used to simply weld the hole, so at a pinch that can be done.
If the cost is going to be a problem, I'd suggest you try getting to the condensor yourself to gauge how much drama is involved. Quite often these fellows can make a mountain out of a molehill after all they are supposedly air/con repairers and baulk at getting involved in the mechanicals fearing they'll end up all day pulling a car apart.
As a comparison, a mate of mine a few years ago took his CX to a place to get a new battery. After over 2 1/2 hours they declared the car needed to be taken to a Citroen garage to get the battery out as it was a "specialist" job. I arrived jusr as he was leaving, lifted the bonnet, undid 3 clips, lifted the headlight out and then the old battery and sat it on the bench within about 3 minutes................much to the amusement of other customers and red faces of the staff.

Alan S

PowerLee · Unread post by **PowerLee** » 25 Nov 2005, 17:59

Hi

Have you checked the outside air intake isnt blocked? Also If its a newer facelifited 405 some of these had a pollen filter, If yours has one has it been changed in the last year?

amjake · Unread post by **amjake** » 26 Nov 2005, 15:04

Thanks Powerlee

I know it has a pollen filter, where will I find it?

Thanks

Kev

PowerLee · Unread post by **PowerLee** » 26 Nov 2005, 15:41

amjake wrote:Thanks Powerlee

I know it has a pollen filter, where will I find it?

Thanks

Kev

Its under the bonnet.

Facing the front of the 405, Look in the far back right hand corner of the engine bay behind the bulkhead, Its under that black plastic cover, Pop the 2 metal clips off that hold the cover down ( if they are still fitted ) Lift the cover off & the pollen filter is right in front of you.

Sometimes it helps to remove the black plastic trim along the bottom of the windscreen to give more room to get the filter out, Some helpful design person at Peugeot stuck the ECU wiring loom right in front of the pollen filter

If you have a diesel you might find it easier.

The new pollen filter may come with a black plastic locating clip thingy, Dont even bother trying to fit this, stick it straight in the bin, I haven't found anybody yet who has successfully fitted this clip

While the pollen filter is out, Check the operation of the outside air intake flap, Press the button or slide the slider & check the flap moves & is secure on the locating clip, DONT stick your hand down in the hole while the key is in the ignition, The blower fan will be whirring away even if its set to OFF!

fastandfurryous · Unread post by **fastandfurryous** » 26 Nov 2005, 17:41

PowerLee wrote: If you have a diesel you might find it easier.

Don't count on it. The loom restricting the access to the Pollen filter is just as bad on a Diesel.

I did manage to fit the upper plastic clip on mine last time I changed it, but only because I HAVE to have pollen free air over the summer, and fitting the clip does make a (tiny) difference to how well the filter seals in it's seating.

amjake · Unread post by **amjake** » 26 Nov 2005, 17:50

Thanks Powerlee

Shall have a look tomorrow and feedback

Appreciate the advice

Kev

amjake · Unread post by **amjake** » 28 Nov 2005, 16:46

Well done Powerlee,

the filter was full of dust crap and bits and pieces, took out new one in and it is much better on air flow.

Cheers
Kev

PowerLee · Unread post by **PowerLee** » 28 Nov 2005, 17:55

Result

demag · Unread post by **demag** » 20 Jan 2006, 12:36

Following on from this. Mine has been misting lately. I took the pollen filter out this morning, full of crap. I'll replace it tomorrow.

I noticed the recirc flap underneath is not doing anything. It was nearly closed so I pushed it open. How can I get to it to repair it? Is it done from inside?

Thanks.

PowerLee · Unread post by **PowerLee** » 22 Jan 2006, 21:58

Hi

Yes you do the flap from up below the dash, Its a bit fiddly to do though

The motor is held on the left hand side of the heater assembly with 2 x cross head screws, Small hands make it easy or gently drill the 5 glovebox rivets out & replace them with countersunk headed bolts & U nuts on the dash.

Are you after a good working 405 flap motor?

I have one up for grabs if anyone wants one.

They are £85 new form the dealer & all I want for this second hand one is a pint & postage