I am an Activaist-v6 and a 2.1Estateerr

[Stickyfinger]

Thankfully solid in that area....I still have to make the edges neat etc, but on advice I will wait until I have the section cut from the LatTIVA they tidy them both together to get a close fit.
I will make plates for the inner sill box section, replace the the lower sill seam and ensure it is level (add seam seal where needed, Zinc weld through primer) then close with a small end plate and apply Bilt&Hamber cavity wax, only then will I cut the outer sill section from the other car.

[Stickyfinger]

Roughing out the repair sections for the lower edge of the inner sill.

I will tack these in place and make the end plate ....I will then take it all off and fold the lower edge of a shaped piece to fit the lower edge as per the original outer sill, before bending it up to the cut top edge to remake the outer sill.
I will then take it all off, seam weld the new inner sill piece in then fit the outer sill and again seam weld it, then hide the dressed weld under new stone chip.

[Stickyfinger]

Started the V6 Activa today after last weeks roll out from it long term sleep.....

I checked Oil, Coolant, LHM etc, all good

Insert key, worry a bit ,
enter key code, worry some more
Turn key.....STARTED instantly !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!.....but still worrying.
Suspension/corrects itself/rises after about 10 seconds.... less worried
Allow to idle, a bit rough, small miss-fire (fuel is 3.5 years old !)...more worrying
Check for leaks etc, None found....less worried
Engine settles to a good idle.... but keep worrying (well you do don't you !)
Short test drive....all good, engine "settles", good power, clutch/gear change and brakes great.....so smooth !

Stopped worrying, enjoyment...YEHHHH !

[Rp0thejester]

Looks like a lovely car

[xantia_v6]

The misfire after a long layup is typical of these engines, I think it is due to the hydraulic tappets.

[Stickyfinger]

My guess was old fuel, but the tappets were a bit "ticky" at startup and cold idle.....that had gone by the time I got back from the test drive

The misfire after a long layup is typical of these engines, I think it is due to the hydraulic tappets.

[Stickyfinger]

MoT PASSED.............Initial fail due to a (cable-tie broken) rack boot loose, all fixed now.

It has been 3 years since I last used her.......I had forgotten just how good she drives.

[Stickyfinger]

Grrrrr....leak from the pinion return pipe connection.....that is a total bu@@er to get at.

this is how the pipe runs down to connect to the pinion leak off pipe

I need to splice in a section of pipe (into No4) .....anybody got a 3 fingered long armed child I can borrow ?

[Stickyfinger]

UPDATE :
Pipe was split just by the clip..... the new rubber "tube of pain" is now on the pinion pipe.
Next challenge is to get it clipped/jubilee'd up, that is going to be a sod to do.

It has only taken me 2 1/2 days !!!!!!!!

[Stickyfinger]

The -Temp- fix of the return line from the steering pinion is fixed, by replacing the line compleatly and joining behind the LHM tank.

Sadly this resulted in a couple of failures (more cracks) in the strut return octopus which required more work.

All seems like it is holding now..... new octopus is on the way from France.

[bobins]

The -Temp- fix of the return line from the steering pinion is fixed, by replacing the line compleatly and joining behind the LHM tank.

All seems like it is holding now..... new octopus is on the way from France.

Une Octopus de la Francais

[Stickyfinger]

All pipe work still dry as a bone..............good
Oil changed today

Jobs to do:
Going to need an accumulator sphere
Front brake pads
A pair of tyres for the front naturally
New octopus should be here shortly so I will be able to square that job away as well.

[Stickyfinger]

All ready to run

[Stickyfinger]

Intermittent brake lights/not working = fixed

...it was the "push lug" on the Lid of the in pedal switch.....that had become squashed on the brake contact side.....but not on the small part of it that presses on the cruse control contact side....that explained my confusion that the cruse control I/Jim fitted was working with the lightest touch but brake needed a hell of a push to get them to work/flicker.

I put a thin metal "cap" over the lug to restore its height & prevent it happening again.

[xantia_v6]

I had that happen on my XM, due to heat from the contacts. I drilled ot the pillar and replaced it with a metal screw.