Hi, I recently purchased a Picasso with the basic A/C not Climate control. I've never had A/C before so I don't know if it's working?
The ambient air is really cold at the moment, so I can't get a true feel for the cooling properties. And it doesn't say if the A/C system should heat, in the user manual. Should it??
I need an answer because the garages' obligations will soon run out...if you know what I mean..[:(!]
How do I know it's working?
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Gareth,
Air/con is operated by a compressor and is refrigerated. The heater will operate like any normal heater. Usually if a car has basic air/con, it will have a blue section on the heat control. The knob needs to be pointing at this for the air/con to work. It usually also has a seperate control for the temp of the air/con beit a knob or in some cases a slide and there is usually a symbol of a snowflake to indicate either that this turns the air/con on or that this is the coldest setting.
To operate heaters, just treat them like any other car with heaters after first checking that the air/con is off. As to checking if it's getting cold, I'm afraid you're stuck with guessing until things warm up.
Alan S.
Air/con is operated by a compressor and is refrigerated. The heater will operate like any normal heater. Usually if a car has basic air/con, it will have a blue section on the heat control. The knob needs to be pointing at this for the air/con to work. It usually also has a seperate control for the temp of the air/con beit a knob or in some cases a slide and there is usually a symbol of a snowflake to indicate either that this turns the air/con on or that this is the coldest setting.
To operate heaters, just treat them like any other car with heaters after first checking that the air/con is off. As to checking if it's getting cold, I'm afraid you're stuck with guessing until things warm up.
Alan S.
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Yep, air/con dehumidifies which is why you can feel comfortable in say a 25 degree air/con atmosphere but be a bit sweaty in the same temp if the humidity is a bit high in a non air/con environment.
Where I live, humidity is a major problem with summer time often reaching 85 - 100% particularly just as a storm hits and this is why air/con is the most efficient way of removing it, as screens will fog up in seconds to the extent that moisture literally runs down them.
With climate control the system works out when it needs hot or cold but I have heard of people using heaters and air/con all at the one time in cars not fitted with climate control and claim it's the most efficient of all demisting systems. Apparently there are ways of carefully turning the air/con on without triggering the micro switch that cuts power to the compressor.
Having seen gauges on some systems when sudden large loads are placed on them, my eyes water at the thought, but I suppose better than running over somebody because the screen's all fogged up.
Alan S
Where I live, humidity is a major problem with summer time often reaching 85 - 100% particularly just as a storm hits and this is why air/con is the most efficient way of removing it, as screens will fog up in seconds to the extent that moisture literally runs down them.
With climate control the system works out when it needs hot or cold but I have heard of people using heaters and air/con all at the one time in cars not fitted with climate control and claim it's the most efficient of all demisting systems. Apparently there are ways of carefully turning the air/con on without triggering the micro switch that cuts power to the compressor.
Having seen gauges on some systems when sudden large loads are placed on them, my eyes water at the thought, but I suppose better than running over somebody because the screen's all fogged up.
Alan S
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I have the aircon switched on all the time in my 405.
Set the heater control to around 23 degs C & the windows demist in seconds.
If you want to test if its working ok, Let the cars cabin get nice & warm first, Then set it to the coldest setting & switch the aircon on, Have the blower fan set halfway, You will soon get very cold if all is ok.
Set the heater control to around 23 degs C & the windows demist in seconds.
If you want to test if its working ok, Let the cars cabin get nice & warm first, Then set it to the coldest setting & switch the aircon on, Have the blower fan set halfway, You will soon get very cold if all is ok.
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<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by PowerLee</i>
I hardly notice any difference myself, For a 2 litre petrol engine my 405 is very good on fuel.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
My C5's the same. I did a long run to Manchester. AirCon on all the way there, Off all the way back. No real noticeable difference. I leave it on all the time now.
Jamie
I hardly notice any difference myself, For a 2 litre petrol engine my 405 is very good on fuel.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
My C5's the same. I did a long run to Manchester. AirCon on all the way there, Off all the way back. No real noticeable difference. I leave it on all the time now.
Jamie
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The fuel consumption seems to vary model to model.
Without doubt, the BX had by far the most efficient system. My old 16Trs would return 7.2L/100klms on a run without air-con and 7.3 with and be freezing cold to boot. The 16V will increase fuel consumption by about 10% due mainly to the difference in surface area of the condensor; they physically couldn't fit the same size one in a 16V as they do in the 8 valbve versions and so fit a smaller one in front of the upper front crossmember instead of behind as in the 8 valvers.
The 8 valve 2.0i Xantia seems to be slightly up on consumption around town but if anything slightly better on the open road, possibly due to aerodynamics having windows shut etc may offset the greater load and the CX; well what can we say about air-con and the CX? In my experience, series one CXs usually increase fuel consumption by around 50% [:0][V] and as a bonus, you never have to worry about getting too cold. Being a car designed and built prior to the current generation of cars who had air-con built into their designs, the poor old CX was a shocker!! Hopefully Tom Sheppherd's tenacity coupled with a pooling of the brains on this forum and elsewhere will arrive at some more acceptable solution before next Christmas; we'll see, but that one <b>is</b> a challenge.
Alan S
Without doubt, the BX had by far the most efficient system. My old 16Trs would return 7.2L/100klms on a run without air-con and 7.3 with and be freezing cold to boot. The 16V will increase fuel consumption by about 10% due mainly to the difference in surface area of the condensor; they physically couldn't fit the same size one in a 16V as they do in the 8 valbve versions and so fit a smaller one in front of the upper front crossmember instead of behind as in the 8 valvers.
The 8 valve 2.0i Xantia seems to be slightly up on consumption around town but if anything slightly better on the open road, possibly due to aerodynamics having windows shut etc may offset the greater load and the CX; well what can we say about air-con and the CX? In my experience, series one CXs usually increase fuel consumption by around 50% [:0][V] and as a bonus, you never have to worry about getting too cold. Being a car designed and built prior to the current generation of cars who had air-con built into their designs, the poor old CX was a shocker!! Hopefully Tom Sheppherd's tenacity coupled with a pooling of the brains on this forum and elsewhere will arrive at some more acceptable solution before next Christmas; we'll see, but that one <b>is</b> a challenge.
Alan S
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