Injectors misbehaving but trying to understand the numbers

[darbuck]

Just done a test explains the dose

[myglaren]

How to you read those things? What does the 'T' and the 'C' signify.
Are you sure you are not just pregnant?

[darbuck]

The two lines mean you have it. The other ones on their own don't matter. My brother asked me the same thing Fortunately I don't have that trim level so I am safe on that front .

[CitroJim]

Sorry to hear that Darren and may it not be too bad and not interfere too much with projects in hand

Going to see Madness and OCS will be awesome and happy belated birthday

[darbuck]

Thanks very much Jim

[PaulC5]

Hope you do not get it bad and best to keep away from other people.

If the test is done correctly the C line will show. If the T line also shows (no matter how feint) as well as the C line it is a positive result for covid.

We had covid a couple of years ago, had symptoms but it was a couple of days later the tests started to show positive so from this if we have symptoms we wait a few days before testing. This is one reason why it spreads so easily, tests suggest you do not have it until after a few days. That's how I got it off Mrs P, she had symptoms but her tests were negative for a few days by which time I had got it and then they were positive but too late to keep away from her. It was a further 7 days before tests started to show negative, gradually the T line became feinter until the next day did not show and then it was ok to go out again. Took me about a month to get over it. It was not long since I had radiotherapy so vulnerable and the hospital gave me Paxlovid anti viral pills, a bit like horse tablets. No idea if they helped but I did not end up in hospital. I was pleased my injections were all up to date and still are, I did not fancy succumbing to something from China.

[darbuck]

Yes herself wasn't well the past few days so I'm blaming herself on it. It will be grand I just have to wait on it to go away.
Were all up to date with jabs as well Paul. My eldest is on immune suppressants so have to be careful around her.I won't be going anywhere until I am well.

I did get a bit done on the car, the drive shafts and gear oil are all in and I flushed the coolant system on the engine. There was a lot of rust in the engine when I bought it but it seems to run well. I am just getting rid of any residual Rust before I put her on the road. She went through the gears very slick but the shaft on the master cylinder snapped so I had to improvise a bit. I have to replace it. Bloody plastic hydraulic parts just makes no sense to me.
It's all good . I'll put everything back together over the next week.im absolutely shattered this evening. I'm looking at buying a TRW master I find them the best for plastic parts.

[darbuck]

I felt stronger today so went back at it. I done a bit more today, I put the front back on. I need a few washers for the screws on the wing liners and I need to put the under tray on.
I have exposed the master cylinder for the clutch but I won't have the replacement until the 12th or 13th so need to wait until then to finish up. I need a few star washers for the rearmost heat shield on the muffler and a spring on the driver side caliper I've lost somehow.once all that is done she'll finally be road worthy and ready to go for a test.

[PaulC5]

If the heat shield star washers go on to threaded studs you might find penny washers and nuts will work. I think I did this on one of our cars. Grease on them stops them corroding the aluminium due to galvanic corrosion of different metals.

[CitroJim]

Superb, well done Darren and pleased both you and the car are well on the road to recovery

[darbuck]

Thanks for that Paul I might give it a go with the washers and nuts. Yes good progress, Jim .
Feeling crap again today so maybe not as good as I thought unfortunately . I'm going to rest up today and might try and work from home tomorrow.

[darbuck]

Ok the glow plug light is staying on P1350 since I done the engine and gearbox. She starts and runs fine but depollution error keeps popping up. I done circuit testing with my test light and multi meter and I have continuity and load testing, all good back as far as the relay. The glow plugs all lit the test light from battery positive I'm confident the circuit and glow plugs are good. I ran the actuator test and the relay is not clicking so I think it's either the relay or ECU controller. I'm assuming relay. I must have shorted something when I reconnected the battery and had missed a ground which I have since fixed but didn't notice the glow plug problem until yesterday.

[darbuck]

Ok so I measured the resistance on the glow plugs from the connector at the back of the engine. I got 1.1, 1.2 , 1.3 and 0.6 on 4,3,2,1 respectively. 1 seems to be an outlier I am wondering if this indicates either the cable is high resistance or the glow plug is dead or if it's perfectly healthy. I need to figure out what the ECU needs to see to say the system is healthy

I think the fact that the resistance lis within range on all of them and the fact that the relay is not clicking tells me the problem is control rather than glow plugs circuit integrity I believe to be good as well as far as the glow plugs as I have resistance, continuity and voltage drop tested the loom and I can't find a fault. I also tested the lines with the test light and can't find fault. So it's either relay or ECU that's faulty. I will try the relay first as it's the least expensive. I do have a spare ECU but I don't want to replace ECU bsi and all to discover it was just the relay. I don't think it's the ECU anyway. I will post up when I have replaced it.

[MattBLancs]

I think 1 ohm is quoted as healthy glow plug resistance. Thought they normal go open circuit so 0.6 is a bit of an oddball.

However I don't think there is any way for the car to understand individual glow plugs condition. Is it possible to confirm 12 volts at the glow plugs when ignition turned on? It's wrong time of year for that as it may be they don't get switched on for long, if at all???
May need to do an "actuator test" in Diagbox to activate the relay manually.

[darbuck]

Relay isn't activating through diagbox hence why I think the problem is that relay.given the rest of the circuit is good. I have 12 volts at the relay connector but not going through the relay. You are correct there is no way the car can see individual plugs as there are 4 power cables going to the plugs, one control wire goes to the relay one power cable in and two ground so no way for it to differentiate.
In other news I installed the new master cylinder and i can't get it to bleed..