Simon's new Xantia V6 and Leaf blog

[Mandrake]

What would the "nominal sum" you mentioned earlier in the thread be then? I shouldn't... but....

I'm fine with £100 ONO - that's what I sold the previous silver problem child V6 for (if you remember that one, which had a huge thread of its own and had constant problems) and that car was in far worse mechanical condition and was sold explicitly as "parts only" due to its impending gearbox failure. Given the issues pointed out on the rear wings I don't think any more would be fair despite the car being mechanically sound and running well.

Really I'm just looking for someone who'll have a go at getting it on the road again and get some enjoyment out of it rather than the car just going straight to a scrapyard for some rust when it still runs and drives so well and has had so many parts put into it in the last 5 years or so to replace most of the things that fail at age. (Radiator, coolant expansion vessel, swirl pot, thermostat, heater matrix, aircon compressor, etc have all been replaced in the last 5 years, as well as the windscreen, most of the spheres, brake parts etc)

If it was a poverty spec Xantia TD I'd probably say don't bother and just scrap the car or break it for parts but I think the V6 Hydractive 2 is something special among Xantia's and a bit more worth doing some restoration on, depending on whether you have someone that could do it for you.

Failing that if anyone wants to take it away as a parts car to break it up to supply parts for other deserving Xantia's, I guess I'm OK with that too over it going to a scrapyard to rot away or more likely be crushed.

I'm not in a position to do breaking and selling parts myself.

I'm going to pop a listing in the Buy and Sell section pointing back here a bit later as well to gauge interest although you have first dibs if you are interested since you spoke first.

While it still has some remaining MOT it can be driven to wherever it needs to go for the cost of petrol, (and gap insurance I guess) as soon as it runs out it gets much more expensive to move it long distances due to having to trailer it and it starts to becomes not worth it unless it's fairly local. (Like I say I was quoted £400 to trailer my Leaf from Motherwell to Cheltenham three years ago, and that was the cheapest quote I could find )

[Michel]

Ok, I'll go for that. Let me make some arrangements to get it down to Lancashire Like I said, distance no issue - I went for a motorbike ride a fortnight ago and came back 471 miles later..

I'm working Mon, Tues, Weds, Thurs next week then off for 5 days, so I'll arrange something for those days.

[Mandrake]

Ok, I'll go for that. Let me make some arrangements to get it down to Lancashire Like I said, distance no issue - I went for a motorbike ride a fortnight ago and came back 471 miles later..

I'm working Mon, Tues, Weds, Thurs next week then off for 5 days, so I'll arrange something for those days.

Slight problem.

I just went out for a test drive after the front brake work yesterday and there is a problem - it looks like the front brake hoses have both suffered the infamous internal delamination/collapse that can happen with old brake hoses that can prevent the calipers from releasing properly. (As the internal walls collapse under slight negative pressure so they become a kind of one way valve that apply but don't properly release the brake)

Both front brakes are very hot after a relatively short drive with not much brake use, so the car is not in a fit state to drive long distances until this is resolved.

I did have some trouble pushing the pistons back as mentioned earlier when I was trying to remove the old pads, this will explain why. Brake hoses are cheap and relatively easy to fit so I've just ordered a pair from Autodoc however I don't know how long they'll take to get here, typically they take one to two weeks depending on the type of item, they are quite unpredictable in their shipping times.

So hold off making any concrete plans for the moment until I can get this sorted. Better safe than sorry.

[Mandrake]

Have the new brake hoses but can't get the old ones out at the body end...

Any tips anyone ? From looking at the new one it looks like the serrated edge is a push fit into the bracket then the brake pipe screws into it from the back side ?

If so I can't undo the nut on the back and can't even figure out what size it is.

It's too small for an 11 (spanner just slips) and too big for a 10 so I guess it's a rusted away 11...

I did manage to hammer a 10 spanner onto the worn side of the nut and apply quite a bit of force but it would not turn at all.

At this point I'm stumped and the car is off the road again and fit only for trailer collection or going to the scrapper as while I can re-connect the old hose it is not fit to drive any distance.

[NewcastleFalcon]

You may have to renew a couple of sections of metal brake pipe. Awkward if these are "Citroen specials" with Citroen flares and ends. If its just "normal brake pipe fittings" and pipe, easy enough to make or have made up a new pipe with the right ends on. The next joint up the line should be undoable if in the engine compartment.

Had to do this with the front brake hoses for the Micra for an MOT. Even off the car there was no way the joint between the flex hose and the metal pipe was coming undone short of complete destruction where the metal pipe and end would need renewing anyway.

I have the appropriate hex brake spanner and unlike last years struggles...there was a cunifer pipe and decent hex on the union nut. Promising. Fascinating trivia the cunifer name comes from ( copper, nickel and Iron (yes the fer bit)).

Same story as last year as it turned out. The join between the metal pipe and the flexible hose would just not undo. Sorted it by making a new pipe with new ends going from the ABS block to the flexible hose.

I came to the conclusion that because the new flexible hoses never come with new banjo bolts and new copper crush washers should such a job be required on another vehicle It would be a good idea to get some in advance.

The undoable nuts 2023 and 2024



Neil

[Mandrake]

Ok, after a couple of hours struggling tonight I've thrown in the towel, for good this time.

Sorry Michel, I did my best but I just couldn't get these brake hoses changed, (can't get the nuts undone on the metal pipe, although I only tried one side) and as a result a pickup and drive home is no longer an option within the remaining MOT time.

I did a quick 10 minute test drive at 30-60mph with very little use of brakes and the right disc was up to 90C and the left disc up to 115C and smelling very hot, so both sides are definitely binding quite badly due to the pistons being unable to retract properly. (And it's definitely the pistons not the calipers or pads as I can't squeeze them back in with polygrips unless the bleed valve is open to give the oil somewhere to go)

Any attempt at a long journey is likely to do serious damage to the brakes if not catch something on fire... it's fine for driving on and off trailers but that's about it.

As such I'm going to put it up for sale in the for sale section as "trailer collection only, parts or project". Thanks for showing an interest but unless you're willing to trailer it and do battle with the brake hoses and brake lines it may not be the project you're looking for.

[Mandrake]

You may have to renew a couple of sections of metal brake pipe. Awkward if these are "Citroen specials" with Citroen flares and ends. If its just "normal brake pipe fittings" and pipe, easy enough to make or have made up a new pipe with the right ends on. The next joint up the line should be undoable if in the engine compartment.

Had to do this with the front brake hoses for the Micra for an MOT. Even off the car there was no way the joint between the flex hose and the metal pipe was coming undone short of complete destruction where the metal pipe and end would need renewing anyway.

I have the appropriate hex brake spanner and unlike last years struggles...there was a cunifer pipe and decent hex on the union nut. Promising. Fascinating trivia the cunifer name comes from ( copper, nickel and Iron (yes the fer bit)).

Same story as last year as it turned out. The join between the metal pipe and the flexible hose would just not undo. Sorted it by making a new pipe with new ends going from the ABS block to the flexible hose.

I came to the conclusion that because the new flexible hoses never come with new banjo bolts and new copper crush washers should such a job be required on another vehicle It would be a good idea to get some in advance.

The undoable nuts 2023 and 2024



Neil

It very much looks like the same undoable nut problem here. I have no idea exactly where those brake lines run to and it's not a job I want to get involved in especially if I'm already selling the car.

I'm out.

[CitroJim]

Mole Grips That's what I used last time I was presented with this issue! They well mangled the union heads but it got the job done and the Mole Grips did them up again on the new hoses...

Access is not the best but with a bit of percywhatsit you can do and if all else fails, these pipes are easy to replace as they use 'normal' flares at both ends and can be made up using ordinary Kunifer pipe...

[xantia_v6]

Did you check that the dragging brakes are due to a hydraulic issue (open the bed screw to check for pressure)?

It could be a seizing handbrake, or even that the caliper was not wound back enough when the pads were fitted.

[Stickyfinger]

Mole grips and heat from a Micro-Flame torch..........as Jim says, the flairs are standard to the ABS block

[Mandrake]

Mole Grips That's what I used last time I was presented with this issue! They well mangled the union heads but it got the job done and the Mole Grips did them up again on the new hoses...

Access is not the best but with a bit of percywhatsit you can do and if all else fails, these pipes are easy to replace as they use 'normal' flares at both ends and can be made up using ordinary Kunifer pipe...

Tried mole grips, no joy. Can't get a good grip on it or get it to turn - very much like Neil described with his.

[Mandrake]

Did you check that the dragging brakes are due to a hydraulic issue (open the bed screw to check for pressure)?

It could be a seizing handbrake, or even that the caliper was not wound back enough when the pads were fitted.

The handbrake adjuster works perfectly and I can wind it in and out by rotating it. When it's fully wound in the piston still sticks out way too far and cannot be squeezed back with poly grips unless I open the bleed nipple at which point it squeezes back easily until nearly flush and oil comes out the bleed nipple.

100% a hydraulic issue, either collapsed hoses or a problem with the brake doseur valve. Because it's only happened when I've changed the discs (and had the calipers off in the process) it's almost certainly already failing hoses that have been pushed over the edge by the bending they will have experienced while the calipers were off.

[Mandrake]

Mole grips and heat from a Micro-Flame torch..........as Jim says, the flairs are standard to the ABS block

Tried it, can't do it, don't want to have any more to do with it.

Time to walk away from the car I'm afraid as it has too many problems that I can't and don't want to deal with.

[mickthemaverick]

Semtex works well at this point Simon!

[Hell Razor5543]

Semtex works well at this point Simon!

Erm, no I don't! (that is my nickname when I play pool, because when I break off the pack explodes!).