xantos wrote:
Yesterday I swapped LHM with hydrorincage (hydraulic cleaner). Also connected silicone pipes for bubble diagnostics. Figured out that the "mysterious o-ring" on the LHM reservoir is indeed the cause for air intake. Improvised a bit with a piece of pipe and ton of silicone. It works! Bubble intake down dramatically!
Interesting - mine seems to be back to riding somewhat harshly most of the time for at least the last several months, but if I lift the suspension right up then back to normal the ride is much smoother for a while but then gets harsh again quite quickly - classic signs of air bubbles being drawn into the pump.
I've previously changed the joiner hose at each end (the V6 has a 50mm long "joiner" at each end with plastic spigots on the main pipe itself which go into the joiner) and while the one at the pump end is now a good fit I'm not so sure about the one at the tank end.
The plastic spigot on the end of the hose and the one on the tank are not quite the same size (about half a millimetre different) so one size of joiner hose has difficulty sealing well on both.
I will have another look at the mysterious o-ring too - I can't see any reason why that plastic bung ever needs to come out again, so maybe just sealing around the bung with a bead of oil resistant glue is a good permanent fix ?
Looking and the silicone pipe on the return I noticed that there is an avalanche of bubbles when the steering wheel is turned... Now where do they come from?! Everything is dry and I renewed the steering pinion valve. Still some nuggets to be cracked...
Do you only see the bubble avalanche in the return pipe going INTO the tank, or do you also see a significant quantity of bubbles then passing through the pipe going TO the pump ? I've often speculated that the power steering system is one of the major sources of air bubble ingress in the return piping - it has the highest hydraulic flow of any of the return lines by far (3x greater flow than the pressure regulator in cut-out mode) so a tiny air leak on the return piping from the power steering back to the reservoir could potentially draw in a lot of air.
How to trace this and fix it I don't know.
Still didn't diagnose why STOP light comes out immediately after engine start. Maybe a broken fuse?
Do you mean the hydraulic pressure stop light goes out very quickly after start up ?
How long has the car sat before starting ? If it has sat overnight and the light goes out immediately that's suspicious, and maybe suggests a flat accumulator sphere.
But if it happens when the car has only been stopped for a short time its not necessarily an issue - when there is an air ingress problem to the pump it can take a few seconds to self prime and even then the pumping capacity of the pump is greatly diminished. (this type of pump can generate very little suction so even a small air leak will reduce cc delivery per revolution a lot)
If you fix an air leak on the pump inlet line (which includes the mysterious o-ring) it won't lose its prime and the pressure will be topped up much quicker as the pumping capacity of the pump will be much better.
So it's quite normal for the light to go out a lot quicker if you've fixed a significant air leak. (Immediately is still suspicious though...)
. Sorted quickly and again it goes like a scalded cat! Yipi!
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good setup there too! ramp - and a stove!! much better than my gas fire and rough stable floor!
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