MoT failure points

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 12 Feb 2010, 18:17

I have a slightly different method that seems to work for me. Before commencing work, I measure from a marked position on each disc to a fixed, marked point on the subframe with the steering locked straight ahead. Fit new track-rod ends and set them up for the same measurements.

So do the rack first before swapping discs or this method won't work Kev!

The track-rod ends can be very tight. Use plenty of Plus-Gas and heat if need be to free them off.

No worries on seals when disconnecting the steering hydraulics as they're all flares. You will have a lovely lot of LHM dripping all over the place to contend with though. Be prepared for some very soft hair

EDIT: Have a good set of hex flare nit spanners at the ready for the hydraulics. OE spanners won't cut it. The flares are tight...

Unread post by **RichardW** » 12 Feb 2010, 21:23

My tips on TREs...

Get the TRE connection to the rack going BEFORE disconnecting them from the hub - it's much easier if the hub is providing the 3rd hand and holding the traack rod still while you lay into it with spanner, heat and big hammer!

When removing the taper from the hub make sure you wind the nut right off the nyloc before breaking the taper - otherwise the whole lot goes round, and you have to cut the taper off to get the joint out.

Guess how I know both of these

citronut · Unread post by **citronut** » 13 Feb 2010, 01:05

i have done several of these on BX's same job, never taken the rack out always dsone in situe, fiddly job but with lots of PERCY WHAT SIT it can be done, also its not a supper stretchy gaitor reqired, just an after market rubber one, as on the BX the OE gaitor is thermo plastic and dont stretch at all,

the other thing to whatch is both ends of the gaitor are slightly diferent diamiters, and you must get it the right way round the first time, as you realy dont want to be takeing it back off to try again

regards malcolm

andmcit · Unread post by **andmcit** » 13 Feb 2010, 10:20

If you must remove the whole rack you needn't drop the front subframe.
I've found that indoing the whole steering column off the dash and drawing
it clear without fully removing it but simply supporting the strain on the
loom will allow enough room on the engine side to lift the rack out. You
need to undo the lower offside front wishbone (another thing on your list
anyway Kev) and I have found undoing the dreaded droplink on that side
helps too. Watch out not to forget the small return on the passenger half
of the subframe as well as another return joint near the HC which disturbs
easily showing loads of LHM over you...

To refernce the tracking, I measure from a reference shoulder on the track
rod inner swivel to the centreline of the TRE "pin" taper - usually the heel of
the pin has a circular pressing which SIDS accurate measurement along the
rod to a reliable shoulder/bush.

That all said:

I've seen but never bought a plastic cone (read spoon will do the same)
where a stretchy rubber aftermarket gaiter can be run over the nearside
rack spiggot thus saving a lot of additional spannering. Worth taking a look
and asking a decent old school motor factors.

Andrew

red_dwarfers · Unread post by **red_dwarfers** » 14 Feb 2010, 13:57

Thanks for the tips

I picked up a Quinton Hazel stretchy replacement gaiter and eventually got it on with a lot of Malcolm's PERCY WHATSIT without removing the steering rack.
Unfortunately I had only built up the strength after I tried to get the track rod end off, would it budge

ended up using a nut splitter to get that one undone and still can't get the track rods off! Proper Seized. Going to go in for a second round of propane heating as it now HAS to come off due to that split nut.
Onto taking the wishbone off, as the disks have to come off anyway I tried to unscrew the torx bits all had been slipped in the past making things difficult. One came out okayish, the others have got to the stage of requiring last resort methods after trying varying lower level methods. The last resort will be welding nuts to the end and getting a replacement set. The anti roll bar drop links proved to be a bit difficult as they appear to be cross threaded!
Getting the new steering rack gaiter on seems to be the easiest of the jobs so far, thought that would be the most difficult

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 14 Feb 2010, 14:46

Oh dear Kev, what a battle

The Caliper Torx bolts can be a problem if someone has been there before as the Torxes are not very deep and they get full of road muck. If this muck is not first removed so the Torx bit can go to the full depth than they will round-off in an instant.

I always hammer the Torx bit in to make sure it is at full depth before trying to turn it on the end of a long breaker bar. It might be worth trying this on yours Kev, you may discover some untouched spline.

Welding nuts on my be the only answer

The track rod end should go with Plus-Gas and heat. Be careful not to get it so hot that heat travels up and damages the inner joint and gaiter. I've counter-held the rack shaft and applied a large pair of stilsons to the balljoint proper to get plenty of leverage on it. That's usually the big problem; getting a good grip on the balljoint with a big enough lever. Else, pop the balljoint back in the hub and loosen it by applying a big enough spanner on the shaft.

I've used a cone on CV joints Andrew. They work well with the right kind of stretchy boot

red_dwarfers · Unread post by **red_dwarfers** » 14 Feb 2010, 18:09

The caliper bolts were relatively easy with a T55 torx bit attached to a 10mm socket with a long levering bar. Thats a good tip that tapping Jim, seems such an obvious point in retrospect

I like to think at this point that that it wouldn't have made a lot of difference

The discs are off now anyhow, I took up an arc welder and a couple of nuts but the torx bolt heads melted onto the disc but away from the hub so now I have small protruding studs to deal with. I'm not too worried about this as I've had to contend with this before!
All a very steep learning curve!

When removing the calipers and pads I found that the retaining pin and R clip were both seized in as many places as possible. A lot of small movements after plusgassing saw these sorted but then the caliper wouldn't open up fully to let me take the pads out due to a locating pin, got around this by taking the discs out which needed their burred edges grinded off first. This then allowed the pads to fall out the middle. Quite a faff

Work will continue after work tomorrow inbetween the raindrops.

EDIT: We have a cone for stretchy gaiters which helped get it over the track rod end, after this I slid the gaiter onto a thick fairy liquid coated plastic bag that my accelerator cable came in and prised it over with my bare hands

in a 'Mr Incredible' (reference to the film

) moment after futile attempts with a tyre lever and other implements.

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 14 Feb 2010, 19:23

Good stuff Kev

Faff is a good description!

Did you mean the small Torx bolts holding the disc itself to the hub? I'm sorry if I misunderstood. I thought you meant the big T55 ones. They are best and easiest just drilled out but in many instances I've enjoyed success with them using an impact driver, once an essential tool for any Japanese motorcycle owner! I reckon I have about a 75% success ratio using an inpact driver before the drill comes out..

Yep, bare oiled hands are the best tool when using a cone Kev. I know exactly what you mean about a "Mr Incredible moment"