Hello!
I'm new to the Xantia world! really love these cars! I usually do all sorts of work on my cars myself, BUT being new to this suspension system, I need to ask you being experts for any advise you can give! for this I would like to thank you in advance, and maybe I can help you in anything in the future!
Just got a 1995 Xantia 2.0i with 200K Kms on clock. When I test drove it, ride was already hard and bouncy, but still bought it having all other areas reasonably still in a very good shape. Of course I got it cheaper cause of the ride! Through your helpful forums, I replaced myself the four (corner) suspension spheres for new ones! 30 min job and ride was improved drastically! I did not replace the front middle sphere (I think this is called the accumulator sphere) and the middle back anti sink sphere, as I think they are fine. Car rises and lowers perfectely as when bought!
The problem I'm encountering is that I am still not convinced that ride quality is as it should be! (I had a BX for some months, and had borrowed a Xantia for a couple of weeks and their ride quality was much better). I still can feel road bumps (feel is like stand suspension ride) and I am feeling that cornering at an average speed is not so good! Ride height looks ok but i need to check through measurment. What I am recently noticing is that when I turn off engine and restart after a while, the back of the car rises slightly!
Can you help me identify the cause of htis poor handling and comfort ride? What is the function of the middle spheres (front and back)? The only small leak I can notice in the system is from the front middle sphere regulator. Does this affect performance?
Please advise,
Thanks,
Stefan
Xantia Suspension ride quality problems!
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Stempy
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If you have HA2 on your model you should have a total of 8 spheres, if you have the more basic suspension then you will have only 6 spheres.
The type with 8 spheres use the two extra spheres for comfort and these are switched in and out automatically by a computer as the driving conditions dictate. The corner spheres on these models have much stiffer damping than the corner spheres on the basic models so make sure you have fitted the correct spheres for your model.
The remaining two spheres are accumulators and are necessary to provide emergency hydraulic pressure should the pump fail for any reason, so these should be replaced if there is any doubt about their condition. Count the pressure regulator cycles, it should click every minute or so, if it's more often than this then think about replacement. They don't have any effect on handling or comfort though.
The type with 8 spheres use the two extra spheres for comfort and these are switched in and out automatically by a computer as the driving conditions dictate. The corner spheres on these models have much stiffer damping than the corner spheres on the basic models so make sure you have fitted the correct spheres for your model.
The remaining two spheres are accumulators and are necessary to provide emergency hydraulic pressure should the pump fail for any reason, so these should be replaced if there is any doubt about their condition. Count the pressure regulator cycles, it should click every minute or so, if it's more often than this then think about replacement. They don't have any effect on handling or comfort though.
It infuriates me to be wrong when I know I'm right
Lexia ponce
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Lexia ponce
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Peter.N.
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If it is hydractive good centre spheres are essential to a good ride. The 'corner' spheres have very hard damping and you only get the soft 'floaty' ride when the electrovalves are open and the centre sphere is in operation as it has virtually no damping. These spheres are very often overlooked when the others are replaced due to their inaccesabailty.
If it is hydractive, it will have a slide switch to the left of the gear lever which says 'sport/normal'.
If it is hydractive, it will have a slide switch to the left of the gear lever which says 'sport/normal'.
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philhoward
AndersDK
Joined: 11 Sep 2003
Posts: 1285
Location: Denmark, Jylland East
Posted: Fri Sep 02, 2005 2:38 am Post subject: Citaerobics - how to vent air from hydraulic suspension.
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CITAEROBICS - - CITAEROBICS
After replacement of suspension spheres - or pressure lines - some air will evidently be trapped in the suspension on assembly. Air may also be trapped in the suspension if the pump suction hose leaks. Sometimes leaking spheres also causes "air" in the suspension.
This air is not vented automatically by the system - and must be vented out - to avoid any strange symptoms from the suspension during drive.
Please note - that this procedure does not vent air in the brake lines/calipers - these must be bleeded manually - as they are dead ends in the system.
Only the closed circuit between HP pump & PR pressure regulator is vented automatically.
To vent the suspension system :
Select neutral on gear selctor - apply handbrakes - have engine idle.
Set the height control selector to the HIGHEST setting - allow time for the height to fully settle - indicated by the regulator clicking calming down to normal again.
Then set the height control selector to the LOWEST setting - allow car to fully sink down on the rubber stops - indicated by a vibration from both front & rear.
Repeat this 5 times - then all air will be vented out.
Never do this while driving the car !
_________________
C U / Anders (DK), BX16RS '89 & BXTRDturboEstate '89
Joined: 11 Sep 2003
Posts: 1285
Location: Denmark, Jylland East
Posted: Fri Sep 02, 2005 2:38 am Post subject: Citaerobics - how to vent air from hydraulic suspension.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
CITAEROBICS - - CITAEROBICS
After replacement of suspension spheres - or pressure lines - some air will evidently be trapped in the suspension on assembly. Air may also be trapped in the suspension if the pump suction hose leaks. Sometimes leaking spheres also causes "air" in the suspension.
This air is not vented automatically by the system - and must be vented out - to avoid any strange symptoms from the suspension during drive.
Please note - that this procedure does not vent air in the brake lines/calipers - these must be bleeded manually - as they are dead ends in the system.
Only the closed circuit between HP pump & PR pressure regulator is vented automatically.
To vent the suspension system :
Select neutral on gear selctor - apply handbrakes - have engine idle.
Set the height control selector to the HIGHEST setting - allow time for the height to fully settle - indicated by the regulator clicking calming down to normal again.
Then set the height control selector to the LOWEST setting - allow car to fully sink down on the rubber stops - indicated by a vibration from both front & rear.
Repeat this 5 times - then all air will be vented out.
Never do this while driving the car !
_________________
C U / Anders (DK), BX16RS '89 & BXTRDturboEstate '89
2002 C5 2.0i AL4 230,000 km 76372389
If the accumulator is leaking from the end opposite the regulator - then the diaphragm has failed and it must be replaced for your own safety.
With a sound accumulator the regulator should be heard to cycle no more frequently than 30 seconds. If it is - the accumulator is probably flat.
To test - raise the car fully - does the frequency reduce - it should as the suspension spheres function more or less as accumulators.
Another test - run the engine for a couple of minutes with the car at normal height, turn off the engine and sit in the boot. The car should sink a long way - then after 30 seconds or so - rise to its normal height - powered by the accumulator.
The accumulator might be responsible for a poor ride - the suspension and brakes on anti-sink cars are powered by only 2 pistons of the pump (all 6 on a BX). The suspension will use a bit of high pressure LHM due to internal leakage and operation of the height correctors and without an accumulator it may not be topping up properly.
I would check the struts for smoothness. They should never creak and groan- if they do they are worn - but lubrication may help.
With a sound accumulator the regulator should be heard to cycle no more frequently than 30 seconds. If it is - the accumulator is probably flat.
To test - raise the car fully - does the frequency reduce - it should as the suspension spheres function more or less as accumulators.
Another test - run the engine for a couple of minutes with the car at normal height, turn off the engine and sit in the boot. The car should sink a long way - then after 30 seconds or so - rise to its normal height - powered by the accumulator.
The accumulator might be responsible for a poor ride - the suspension and brakes on anti-sink cars are powered by only 2 pistons of the pump (all 6 on a BX). The suspension will use a bit of high pressure LHM due to internal leakage and operation of the height correctors and without an accumulator it may not be topping up properly.
I would check the struts for smoothness. They should never creak and groan- if they do they are worn - but lubrication may help.
jeremy