ZX Radius arm bearings

Kitch · Unread post by **Kitch** » 07 Sep 2006, 19:04

Just picked up a 1993 ZX 16v and I'm pretty sure the rear bearings are shot. The OSR wheel is rubbing the inside of the arch! Its at a bit of an angle but I've seen worse.
Is it something that can be changed like the BX's? Or am I really stuffed?

Thanks

jeremy · Unread post by **jeremy** » 07 Sep 2006, 19:48

Haynes gives a description I think. I don't think its impossible but not commonly done on a DIY basis.

Apparently its the same as the Peugeot 306? and there are specialists - I used to have a link to a firm in Plymouth? who did exchange subframes (with new bearings) and would fit while you waited - but have changed computers and its on the old one.

Could be a few bob in doing them!

slim123 · Unread post by **slim123** » 07 Sep 2006, 21:23

The problem with the ZX is that the inner race of the bearing is the subframe tube, you cannot replace this as it dont come off, so as said before you need to replace the rear sub frame.

Sorry but you have bought a lemon, unless of course it is perfect in every other way, then the cost may be worth it.

Regards
Slim

citronut · Unread post by **citronut** » 07 Sep 2006, 22:20

not realy a lemon apart from the make being citroen,its not that hard to fit a good second hand rear axle(subframe)once you have found one,thats the usual fix for this problem,its not the end of the world
regards malcolm

mezuk04 · Unread post by **mezuk04** » 08 Sep 2006, 10:22

Its not overly expensive from what I've heard to have one changed by yourself, but just need a good day or so spare and a mate for a helping hand.

Certainly not a lemon

but its one of those jobs you'd prefer not to have to do but then once its done, its done!

How much did you buy the car for?

8304 · Unread post by **8304** » 08 Sep 2006, 10:55

changing the subframe in a zx is real easy - i wouldnt condem the car as a lemon on the basis of three hours work and a subframe from the scrapy !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

is the volcane subframe the same as a 16v??? i only ask because the dampers are the same........

i changed the subframe in my zx (£20 from breakers!!!!) from the existing 1.8i to a volcane one and the difference was amazing - much stiffer and better brakes with discs on the back

The volcane one loked much meatier with thicker torsion bars and fatter dampers - i understand the roll bar insthe middle is thicker too???.....

Kitch · Unread post by **Kitch** » 08 Sep 2006, 11:18

So its probably replacement axle territory then? I've changed one before on an AX so other than the passive steering stuff, its pretty much the same I'd have thought?

I would assume the Volcane one is the same as the 16v one?

I've beaten the inner arch back so its not making contact, and once it gets worse I'll space the wheels out a bit more

AndersDK · Unread post by **AndersDK** » 08 Sep 2006, 12:20

- the variant for the 1.8 16V (XU7JP4) :
http://www.citroen-pr.net/catalogues/il ... 221160.gif

citronut · Unread post by **citronut** » 08 Sep 2006, 13:21

Kitch wrote:So its probably replacement axle territory then? I've changed one before on an AX so other than the passive steering stuff, its pretty much the same I'd have thought?

I would assume the Volcane one is the same as the 16v one?

I've beaten the inner arch back so its not making contact, and once it gets worse I'll space the wheels out a bit more

thats not passive steering its clapped out arm bushes,dont bodge just replace the axel,its just as easy as the AX
regards malcolm

slim123 · Unread post by **slim123** » 08 Sep 2006, 16:30

Yes I agree it aint a difficult job to sort out, but I would assume that most cars at the scrapyard have high milage and thus have a knackered subframe, the same as yours or worse.

Best to find (if you can) a low milage car with a front end shunt write off, then remove the subframe off this.

Regards
Slim

citronut · Unread post by **citronut** » 08 Sep 2006, 19:49

yes i quite agree it is best to find one with the lowest mileage you can,unless you have got about 3 to 4 hundred pounds to give to the main dealer to do the job for you
regards malcolm

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 10 Sep 2006, 21:27

I have just replaced the rear beam (subframe) on my 205. It is functionally identical to the ZX and many other PSA vehicles but not interchangable. A 306 beam (subframe) will fit a ZX though.

They're not hard to refurbish yourself. GSF sell the bearings very cheaply. The point to watch though is that any beam you get from a scrapper may well be on its way out as well. What happens is moisture leaks into the outer bearing and rusts it and the trailing arm shaft. The bearing collapses and hence your rather excessive camber. If this goes on long enough, the inner bearings fail due to stress and the outer bearing housing ovalises. Finally, the trailing arm shaft becomes badly pitted on its bearing journals and becomes scrap. Yours looks beyond repair but if you get one from a scrappy, check it very carefully. Ensure that without shocks on it moves very freely against the torsion bars, has no play and does not groan or give off creaking sounds. Beams can be refurbished very successfully if you catch them as they begin to creak going over speed humps. If you get a seemingly good beam from a scrapper, refurbish it before fitting.

The actual job of removing the old and fitting a replacement is a walk in the park. Dead easy. I recommend you replace the rear "sandwich" mountings whilst you're there though.

Try to get a beam from an identical model as there are many different sets of Torsion Bars and ARBs fitted to various models, all of which affect the handling and comfort. If you want to replace like with like, measure the diamater of one of your torsion bars with a vernier caliper and compare that to any offered by a scrappy. Note that a disk braked trailing arm will not take drums and vice versa. The stub axles are a little different.

This link (from our 205GTi friends) tells you how to refurbish a beam.

http://www.205gtidrivers.com/ and then look under Articles and Rear Beam Refurb Guide

I can vouch that this guide works perfectly.

8304 · Unread post by **8304** » 11 Sep 2006, 14:52

somthing else worth doin is to dril a hole in the beam between the two swinging arm bearings on each side and inject grease until it spews out by the trailing arm. this keeps things moving smoothly...........

DirtyGertie · Unread post by **DirtyGertie** » 12 Sep 2006, 19:00

I think this is the place jeremy was on about hope it helps

http://www.sspengineering.co.uk/

jeremy · Unread post by **jeremy** » 12 Sep 2006, 19:31

that's it! Have bookmarked it for the future.