C5 rear passenger door wont open

wolvesinwales · Post by **wolvesinwales** » 04 Jan 2006, 18:52

Hi, Any ideas how to get into it / fix it ? All other central locking works fine but all of a sudden the one rear passenger door wont open.

Thanks

jeremy · Post by **jeremy** » 04 Jan 2006, 22:27

I seem to recall something similar coming up before relating to a late Xantia and the problem being a body control computer problem - sorted with a laptop!

wheeler · Post by **wheeler** » 05 Jan 2006, 01:42

im 99% sure it will be a faulty door latch.if you cant get the door to unlock try banging the door on the outside in the area of the latch while working the central locking,it sometimes gets it working again at least once so you can get in to change it. failing that it is possible to remove the door panel with the door closed although a bit auckward,once you get in there you will need to destroy the latch with a hammer & big screwdriver if you still cant get the dor open.

bencowell · Post by **bencowell** » 05 Jan 2006, 07:10

I paid the dealer to change the lock on my Xsara (same problem as your C5) because if I slipped with a hammer and chisel it is my problem, but if the dealer punches a hole in the door then he has to fix it!

It is only an hours labour to change a lock. Almost like cheap accident insurance!

406 V6 · Post by **406 V6** » 05 Jan 2006, 07:57

Have the same problem on mine...sometimes it unlocks, but mostly doesn't. I have to take it t the dealer, though i've remembered of removing the inside triming and spraying with a bit of wd-40...

mezuk04 · Post by **mezuk04** » 05 Jan 2006, 07:57

I currently have this problem with my Xantia but cant say it bothers me that much since i dont use that door personally

and on occasion it will be ok

However since the car is a C5 i would see how much someone will charge to sort it out, i wouldnt like to take a door card off a C5 for sure and i dont even fancy doing it to the Xantia, too many memories with cheap flimsy Zx's

wolvesinwales · Post by **wolvesinwales** » 05 Jan 2006, 18:37

Thanks for all the tips plenty to go at from laptop to hammer !
I will let you know how i get on.
Cheers

bencowell · Post by **bencowell** » 06 Jan 2006, 06:58

C5 4 door --- should be 5 ...

Yes, the lack of a rear wiper and saloon profile makes the C5 look like a saloon, so yours is just working to spec.

If you want to open the boot, you have to lose a door!

Mine works in a similar way, it is a 3 plus two half door car. The drivers door doesnt always unlock on the button and sometimes the boot won't open and you have to push the lid down before trying again.

Citroen's, we love them!

ternacia · Post by **ternacia** » 15 Jan 2006, 12:14

I have managed to get the rear door in my c5 fixed at a local garage. This was not the first time they had seen the problem. The child lock switch had failed & as long as you don't need the child lock there is no need to replace the whole lock. The door coverings need to be removed to get the door opening but once it is open just swich off the child lock. Whole job only cost €40 .

alanlondon · Post by **alanlondon** » 18 Jun 2023, 13:41

Sorry this is an old post but....

I have had the problem with the rear passenger door not opening from outside.

Solution for me:

Sit in car, ignition on, press central locking button on dashboard, press it again.

Hey Presto, rear door opens from outside. No dents in wing/door, no door cards off, no broken locks, magic!

aspire_helen · Post by **aspire_helen** » 21 Jun 2023, 23:51

The usual fault is that the door cannot be opened from the inside and outside, and can be very intermittent. There are 2 small 12v electric motors and 2 microswitches in each lock. The motors can jam, and there is a very, very small chance it may be released by banging the door at just the right time. I had one where one of the microswitches failed.
I have used two methods to open the door, WITHOUT damaging the door.
1. Go through the rear wheel arch and remove a window of metal skin to access the anchor nuts securing the striker plate screws. Very carefully drill away the anchor nuts and bolt shafts until the heads are released. The door will then open with the striker plate stuck in the lock jaws. The lock can then be removed as normal. Fit a second hand lock and recover the striker plate which can be re-attached with nuts and bolts.
2. Having dismantled several locks I devised a fool-proof method of opening the jaws of the lock using only a soldering iron and instrument screwdriver. PM me for a detailed illustrated guide. In brief, remove the door card (yes it can be removed with the door closed), access the door lock body, using the soldering iron melt a small hole in a very specific place in the plastic casing, insert the instrument screwdriver in a specific way and release the internal over-lock mechanism with a satisfying click. I have so modified both my rear locks.

Never Rennes · Post by **Never Rennes** » 17 Sep 2024, 13:53

aspire_helen wrote: 21 Jun 2023, 23:51 The usual fault is that the door cannot be opened from the inside and outside, and can be very intermittent. There are 2 small 12v electric motors and 2 microswitches in each lock. The motors can jam, and there is a very, very small chance it may be released by banging the door at just the right time. I had one where one of the microswitches failed.
I have used two methods to open the door, WITHOUT damaging the door.
1. Go through the rear wheel arch and remove a window of metal skin to access the anchor nuts securing the striker plate screws. Very carefully drill away the anchor nuts and bolt shafts until the heads are released. The door will then open with the striker plate stuck in the lock jaws. The lock can then be removed as normal. Fit a second hand lock and recover the striker plate which can be re-attached with nuts and bolts.
2. Having dismantled several locks I devised a fool-proof method of opening the jaws of the lock using only a soldering iron and instrument screwdriver. PM me for a detailed illustrated guide. In brief, remove the door card (yes it can be removed with the door closed), access the door lock body, using the soldering iron melt a small hole in a very specific place in the plastic casing, insert the instrument screwdriver in a specific way and release the internal over-lock mechanism with a satisfying click. I have so modified both my rear locks.

Hi in Nottingham.

Have the dreaded deadlocked rear door. Have changed many locks on my 2001 C5 in the 20 years I've owned it but luckily I've never had to do it with the door locked shut.

Would really like to try your method of melting a hole in the plastic and tripping the deadlock mechanism open with an instrument screwdriver. Guess this would be necessary even if I removed the striker plate from the door frame in order to free the striker plate from the jaws of the lock so the old lock can be withdrawn into the door...

New, second hand lock in stock ready to go, just need to get the old one out, preferably in the least destructive manner possible.

New to French Car Forum. Haven't found out how to PM you for your detailed illustrated guide. Please advise how you could get a copy to me. My MOT is up on 5th October so early help appreciated!

Many thanks

aspire_helen · Post by **aspire_helen** » 19 Sep 2024, 20:07

Never Rennes
I have sent you a PM

Never Rennes · Post by **Never Rennes** » 17 Oct 2024, 20:50

This post is to record my deep gratitude to aspire_helen for providing comprehensive procedure notes on dealing with C5 rear door lock problems.

Based on incredibly detailed examination / testing / dismantling of the locks, a_h has come up with an almost-too-easy way of releasing a rear door lock stuck-shut with deadlock firmly on.

a_h's notes with numerous clear photos, show exactly where a small hole has to be made (with a soldering iron) in the lock casing in order to insert a precision screwdriver to enable the deadlock to be manually engaged / disengaged. I've tried this on both left and right locks several times - it works first time and is repeatable - the mechanism feels robust - there is no 'fishing' necessary - the deadlock clicks on and off smoothly and reliably with the small instrument screwdriver. I've even made the (necessary) hole in the new lock I fitted to replace the one with the dicky deadlock.

Incidentally, 12V soldering irons are available and work perfectly well for this purpose.

a_h's notes also include all the steps needed to remove the rear door card to access the lock body.

I was also helpfully reminded to check all functions of a 'new' lock, connected to the wiring loom, before fixing to the door.

A useful reminder too from a_h that Mk 1 C5 doors can be locked without deadlocking. This requires use of the physical key in one of the front doors. Turn the key once to deadlock, turn it once more to remove deadlock.

Once again, many thanks for the procedure - ideal for those averse to taking hammer and chisel to their car unless strictly necessary...

aspire_helen · Post by **aspire_helen** » 18 Oct 2024, 20:48

Never Rennes, You are so kind.
Just a point of clarification for others. My method unlocks the lock, not just removes the deadlock. In other words, it enables both external and internal handles when either, or both, fail to open the door. Removing the deadlock only enables the internal handle.

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