Another update.
Following a brain wave i removed the wheel arch liner then removed the complete from bumper then the headlights this allowed me to remove the top section which the bonnet closes to, i then moved the intercooler which will be cleaned as it has a little oil in it. Then i had a gap i could see the oil pressure sensor switch ... sitting there looking at me i touch it with a screw driver which the power lead to it fell off ! could this of been the trouble all along ? It also was showing signs of leaking. With the lead broke and out the way i got a 22mm long reach socket and removed it. Getting tools into this location was nearly impossible it then hit me how on earth do i get the new one in. Oh no .. DPF .. will i need to remove this big metal tube ? Another brain wave i fabricated a Long reach tool that i navigate between some pipes wires and a part of the shield of the dpf it worked i got it there and got it three quarters screwed in. I ran out of day light by this time so packed up for the day.
I hope the photos uploaded make some sense.
I can see now why a friend of mine who runs his own garage didn't want to take the job on, I'm also pleased its not the wet belt system . Who ever came up with the wet belt system must of been on a path of destruction to the combustion engines.
My socket arrived this morning was due for Jan 2nd ! The oil pressure sensor switch is in where it lives ,how easy it was with the right tool. Ive put back almost everything that had to be moved to gain access then it started to rain . So more to come
Head lamps , bumper wheel arch liners & refill with oil then the big switch on .
Well just the arch liners to sort, everything done fired it up no warning on dash, run a scan , no codes, checked oil temp & pressure came back as ok. Will test in the morn with my bigger scan tool & read the pressure & check live data too. Engine sounds smoother. Fingers crossed i think it might be sorted.
Not all sensors come with a new washer the washer can cost £11 on its own maybe hard to sorce too. If you use the orignal washer that comes off the car check first to see if its ok if not your need a new one. Ive used the one that came off the car ive tested the car and there are no leaks so all looks good.
SO HERES WHAT TO DO ....
Jack up front of car support with axle stands remove front wheels. Remove wheel arch liners some push clips & bolts to front lower bumper panel . Drain oil from sump dont want oil running out while unscrewing sensor from the engine
Remove engine undertray if fitted. Remove front bumper there is a push clip to wing which needs to be removed and a tab which you push down then pull out the bumper from its location the bumper top has 4 push clips remove these then lift the bumper from its clip holding points then pull bumper forwards to remove away from the car.
Now remove the driver side headlight 3 10mm bolts this will give you room to undo air pipe bolts and clamps and manuvore the intercooler out of the way. The high plastic bonnet catch housing has 2 13mm bolts either side remove these there are 2 10mm bolts infront of where the catch sits remove these too this part can the be lifted out of the way. You now need to remove the air pipe work from the back of the turbo down to the intercooler then remove. You now have accsess to move the the lower bolts that hold the plastic junction for the pipe work from intercooler toward the top part of the engine once these 2 8mm or 10mm bolts are removed move the top 8mm ling bolt then the black plastic juntion can be lifted out of the way. Unclip the o2 sensor that sits ontop of the dpf 22mm socket or spanner to undo the sensor then remove the sensor. This makes a bit more room to look down by the side of the dpf then your see the oil pressure sensor switch. Lift off the wire loom hiusing from its bracket then move it out of the way. The dpf has 2 13mm copper nuts one either side undo these , 17mm bolt on the top clamp & bottom undo & pri open the clamp using 2 long screwdrivers and lift clamp out the way. The top clamp lives under heat sheild 2 10mm nuts on the top to manifold and one 10mm bolt front face of the heat sheild lift off the sheild to get to the top dpf clamp . When clamps are free amd the side 13mm copper nuts removed, undo the sensors on the lower side of the dpf or just undo the 10mm nut holding the clamp to allow enough movement to pull forward the dpf and move out the way enough to use long reach rachet extention bar with 22mm socket unclip the plug to this sensor then unscrew it with the socket on your extension bars, Put the sensor in the special cut out socket & carefully offer this to the hole by working your way through the path you have created then slowly screw by hand as not to cross thread keep your eye on the lead to make sure it turns & isnt getting trapped on anything. 12Nm is the toqure for this sensor. Then plug the sensor into its loom.
Put the dpf back on. Refit wire looms, Refitted intercooler refit intercooler pipe workings , put headlight back in , refit bumper . Top up engine oil. Maybe worth giving the dpf a clean while off pleanty of videos on youtube to help.
It maybe worth servicing the car while doing this job then your have new oil & filters at the same time, also the sump has the inverted nut & can still hold 500ml of dirty oil if you can syringe this out it is well worth doing. These 1.6hdi engines hold abiut 3.75 Litres of oil. Also worth giving the intercooler a flushing mine had a small ammount of oil in but nothing major for almost 90,000 miles.
The reason i did my repair was i purchased the car and not long after the oil pressure warning light with audiable alarm kept coming on. The car price was low more likely because of this issue. Its a simple job made difficult by how much of the car you need to remove to be able to gain a way to the sensor.
I also renewed my oil strainer & put on a new sump & also cleaned my vacumme pump which was blocked by black mastic in the oil feed hole.
The sump & strianer didnt really need doing but it gave me the opotunity to see how clean the engine was from the bottom looking up. This prossess of elimination cost me £40 tuat was for the strainer , sump & gasket sealer. The part that was the problem cost me £21. My scan tool picked up oil guage fault so after all this works i did another scan & it came up no faults just a nag about front fogs and driver side lights being unplugged which was soon sorted out once the scann tool swittched on and off every light then rrported back no faults.
I hope this guide may help others as i found hardly nothing regarding this sensor might be because of where its located.
So this evening I've drove 38 mile trip , car ran lovely no warnings at all. But i have a top mount on the passengers side that is making a clunk n rattle sound & on inspection the top mount washer rubber edge has come off so shouldn't be to much to sort
The knock , clunk, rattle was a lose top nut on the front suspension ! Which in turn was making the large washer vibrate against the body the rubber sleeve was off the washer so i undid the top nut took the washer off popped the rubber sleeve back on and pounded up the top nut with the weight of the car . This is when i also found a duck pond due to the drain holes being blocked .
could this of been the trouble all along ? It also was showing signs of leaking. With the lead broke and out the way i got a 22mm long reach socket and removed it. Getting tools into this location was nearly impossible it then hit me how on earth do i get the new one in. Oh no .. DPF .. will i need to remove this big metal tube ? Another brain wave i fabricated a Long reach tool that i navigate between some pipes wires and a part of the shield of the dpf it worked i got it there and got it three quarters screwed in. I ran out of day light by this time so packed up for the day.
Great work Husky 
