405: Major Works
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Re: 405: Major Works
Can't tell from the video but which terminals are you bridging? Intuitively one would bridge the 2 large ones but this will give the issue you have here since it only powers up the motor but doesn't "throw" the solenoid out.
Way to do it is the battery side large terminal (permanent +) to the small terminal that the signal wire goes to. It's possible the solenoid is sticking but as you've moved the pinion out by hand I wouldn't think so.
Way to do it is the battery side large terminal (permanent +) to the small terminal that the signal wire goes to. It's possible the solenoid is sticking but as you've moved the pinion out by hand I wouldn't think so.
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Re: 405: Major Works
Are you shorting to the small terminal on the solenoid?
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Re: 405: Major Works
I think you've hit the nail on the head there ekjdm. Another look at the Starter clearly demonstrates there's a small connection I'd previously overlooked. So big Thank You
Today I've also learnt that I should've gone with my initial instinct to put the 'Lifting Eye' on my makeshift Spreader Bar as close as possible to the left side lifting
I might've over-engineered it a bit and what can happen if you try to force a Hose onto a plastic fitting, oops! I'd intended to mock up the Cooling system mods. The other engine will provide a replacement Doing my best not to panic about the worsening of the car's issues and it potentially being out of use while I faff. The news that a Timing Chain Kit for a Micra K13 is a whopping £600 in parts alone only adds to my resolve not to go modern anytime, ever.
I was about to pack up for the day when I read it so I didn't get a chance to 'test the theory' but I'm confident it'll work next time with a power supply to the little connector. Today I've also learnt that I should've gone with my initial instinct to put the 'Lifting Eye' on my makeshift Spreader Bar as close as possible to the left side lifting
I might've over-engineered it a bit and what can happen if you try to force a Hose onto a plastic fitting, oops! I'd intended to mock up the Cooling system mods. The other engine will provide a replacement Doing my best not to panic about the worsening of the car's issues and it potentially being out of use while I faff. The news that a Timing Chain Kit for a Micra K13 is a whopping £600 in parts alone only adds to my resolve not to go modern anytime, ever.
Puxa
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Re: 405: Major Works
oh and I see that Chris has answered also. Thanks likewise, no, I wasn't !
Puxa
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Re: 405: Major Works
Sound outrageous. Is it some exotic K13? £73.99 for this kit from Febi BilsteinPug_XUD_KeenAmateur wrote: ↑03 Dec 2019, 16:14 The news that a Timing Chain Kit for a Micra K13 is a whopping £600 in parts alone only adds to my resolve not to go modern anytime, ever.
https://www.cartech-one.co.uk/en/search ... ming-chain
Regards Neil
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Re: 405: Major Works
£600 is about €700 here you could buy at least a brace of Micras for that
Oh buggle
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Re: 405: Major Works
I thought that too. I'm told that you have to buy the Timing Chain and Cogs separately hence the outrageous cost. Crossed my mind that maybe my bicycle chain 'd fit !
It only cost her £1,500 two years ago so its going to be sold, either private or Auction. I haven't done my research yet, but when I looked ages ago good ones were 3 grand or more so I'm hoping it'll make about £800.
Did get quotes for a replacement s/h engine (£300 ish), but with the clutch and labour n all that, its North of a Grand so its not happening. Would you believe none of the Breakers I spoke to could provide proof of claimed low mileage !! It'd be so easy, but seemingly no, they didn't bother.
If anyone's interested its an 11 plate, with 105k on it and its the high spec 'Accenta' with AC and various Toys. Currently owner is 83 years old, previous was a Priest; no kidding! On the logbook. Various scuffs & scrapes and Engine Management Light On (believed re Timing Chain) + very little clutch.
Similarly, if anyone's got a car for sale, we're looking to spend not more than £1k on ideally a 3 door Hatch (nice big doors, she doesn't bend so well these days), Light Clutch ideally Hydraulic, Petrol preferred in a bright colour, ideally yellow. I'd buy a Saxo / 106 or ZX if I thought I could persuade her (and find a good one!), but that's unlikely.
It only cost her £1,500 two years ago so its going to be sold, either private or Auction. I haven't done my research yet, but when I looked ages ago good ones were 3 grand or more so I'm hoping it'll make about £800.
Did get quotes for a replacement s/h engine (£300 ish), but with the clutch and labour n all that, its North of a Grand so its not happening. Would you believe none of the Breakers I spoke to could provide proof of claimed low mileage !! It'd be so easy, but seemingly no, they didn't bother.
If anyone's interested its an 11 plate, with 105k on it and its the high spec 'Accenta' with AC and various Toys. Currently owner is 83 years old, previous was a Priest; no kidding! On the logbook. Various scuffs & scrapes and Engine Management Light On (believed re Timing Chain) + very little clutch.
Similarly, if anyone's got a car for sale, we're looking to spend not more than £1k on ideally a 3 door Hatch (nice big doors, she doesn't bend so well these days), Light Clutch ideally Hydraulic, Petrol preferred in a bright colour, ideally yellow. I'd buy a Saxo / 106 or ZX if I thought I could persuade her (and find a good one!), but that's unlikely.
Puxa
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Re: 405: Major Works
this is a bit all over the place, coz once again I've changed 'direction' for the moment. I've not made any attempt to power up the Starter Solenoid yet, instead it became more urgent to have the car useable following my comment re
A bit of thought suggested to me that my 'pin prick' bodge in the Bypass Hose was no longer sufficiently venting the Air created by the weeping HG so I needed to come up with something more effective....
I'm going to leave it at that for the moment, as I've not even transferred the photos of the fix to my PC yet, I'm aware this is all becoming very confusing, hence a reasonably short post is in order.
Its also daylight hours as I write, so I can be getting on with further car works; a bit cold, but needs must.
*We were just beaten to a yellow Kia Picanto to replace the Micra, finding it sold when we arrived un-announced at a local Dealer's premises. There's about 5 yellow cars within 'range' at the moment, but only one other has an MOT History I consider acceptable, and that's a Vauxhall; so its out of the question.
it did similarly, but to a worse extent, when I took the car out a day or two later, and I wasn't too surprised to find that at about 2miles out, driving on clear 'becoming rural' roads, the Temp Gauge made very quick progress from cold to almost 110c and waivered around 90c to 105c (far too hot for a 405) with not even a wisp of warm air, on a very cold night; from the Heater until I could 'swap' to MiL's Micra 5miles hence, to complete my journey; it thankfully taking me past her home*.Pug_XUD_KeenAmateur wrote: ↑02 Dec 2019, 19:26...I don't think it appreciated the long run ...the Gauge demonstrated just how quickly it can sprint from normal to 100c + so things have got more urgent
A bit of thought suggested to me that my 'pin prick' bodge in the Bypass Hose was no longer sufficiently venting the Air created by the weeping HG so I needed to come up with something more effective....
I'm going to leave it at that for the moment, as I've not even transferred the photos of the fix to my PC yet, I'm aware this is all becoming very confusing, hence a reasonably short post is in order.
Its also daylight hours as I write, so I can be getting on with further car works; a bit cold, but needs must.
*We were just beaten to a yellow Kia Picanto to replace the Micra, finding it sold when we arrived un-announced at a local Dealer's premises. There's about 5 yellow cars within 'range' at the moment, but only one other has an MOT History I consider acceptable, and that's a Vauxhall; so its out of the question.
Puxa
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Re: 405: Major Works
a quick addendum to the previous post, showing 'the latest bodge'
The Bleed Screw is back in its rightful place on the Bypass Hose and the original Header Tank is plumbed 'in line' with it. I'd anticipated that I'd need to run it with the top off, but it seems to be OK, and is running at maximum of this shown temp (there's no stat) with slightly better than tepid air out of the Heater.
The leaky rad (I have a new one) might be relieving any excess pressure, but its a fix for the moment. Here's to a successful 60mile round trip tomorrow. PS: I wasn't being over-fussy was I, rejecting a prospective car purchase for a momentary Timing Chain rattle when started cold? Lasted about 2 seconds. A Toyota Yaris 1.0 VVTi
The Bleed Screw is back in its rightful place on the Bypass Hose and the original Header Tank is plumbed 'in line' with it. I'd anticipated that I'd need to run it with the top off, but it seems to be OK, and is running at maximum of this shown temp (there's no stat) with slightly better than tepid air out of the Heater.
The leaky rad (I have a new one) might be relieving any excess pressure, but its a fix for the moment. Here's to a successful 60mile round trip tomorrow. PS: I wasn't being over-fussy was I, rejecting a prospective car purchase for a momentary Timing Chain rattle when started cold? Lasted about 2 seconds. A Toyota Yaris 1.0 VVTi
Puxa
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Re: 405: Major Works
Maybe you were, depending on how long it'd been standing idle. More of a bargaining point than a deal breaker, I'd have thought - but can understand why you're a bit wary about such things.
As for those Roman Pandas, low tech, el cheapo city cars seem to be de rigeur in European capitals, witness all those Twingos I keep seeing in Paris - unt Berlin!
As for those Roman Pandas, low tech, el cheapo city cars seem to be de rigeur in European capitals, witness all those Twingos I keep seeing in Paris - unt Berlin!
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Re: 405: Major Works
Hi Puxa,
Having "flow" through a header tank is ok, provided it's not too full-force . . . small snouts and connecting it with a small hose (not bigger than 15mm bore) usually ensures that. Many cars have flow though their header tanks, which also double as de-aeration (swirl) chambers, and so collect trapped air at a highest and harmless spot.
Interested that you seem to have a properly warmed-up engine (∼90C), but lukewarm heater. This shouldn't be happening, because the heater matrix is plumbed in straight across the head/block, and should run at the same temp as it.
You could have a blocked heater matrix, or the air-control flaps on the heater matrix box are not doing their job. To check whether there is decent flow through the heater matrix, locate the two hoses leading to it (easiest usually in the engine compartment) and use a hand on them to check whether hot water from the head is going to, and returning from, the matrix. If you can identify the Return one, as the engine heats up from cold, it should feel roughly the same temp as the engine block/water outlet/thermostat/temp sensor housing. If it feels much cooler, suspect poor flow through the matrix. It you have to replace the matrix, Nissens brand can be recommended (eg from Mister Auto).
DId you say there is no thermostat installed? That will seriously delay/prevent the heater matrix from delivering hot air, because the main radiator will always be fully in circuit. If this is the case, the readng from the gauge is very suspect, ie may be showing properly hot when the engine block (and matrix) isn't. Check the water outlet/thermostat housing with a thermometer. Is the sender the correct one for the gauge?
Having "flow" through a header tank is ok, provided it's not too full-force . . . small snouts and connecting it with a small hose (not bigger than 15mm bore) usually ensures that. Many cars have flow though their header tanks, which also double as de-aeration (swirl) chambers, and so collect trapped air at a highest and harmless spot.
Interested that you seem to have a properly warmed-up engine (∼90C), but lukewarm heater. This shouldn't be happening, because the heater matrix is plumbed in straight across the head/block, and should run at the same temp as it.
You could have a blocked heater matrix, or the air-control flaps on the heater matrix box are not doing their job. To check whether there is decent flow through the heater matrix, locate the two hoses leading to it (easiest usually in the engine compartment) and use a hand on them to check whether hot water from the head is going to, and returning from, the matrix. If you can identify the Return one, as the engine heats up from cold, it should feel roughly the same temp as the engine block/water outlet/thermostat/temp sensor housing. If it feels much cooler, suspect poor flow through the matrix. It you have to replace the matrix, Nissens brand can be recommended (eg from Mister Auto).
DId you say there is no thermostat installed? That will seriously delay/prevent the heater matrix from delivering hot air, because the main radiator will always be fully in circuit. If this is the case, the readng from the gauge is very suspect, ie may be showing properly hot when the engine block (and matrix) isn't. Check the water outlet/thermostat housing with a thermometer. Is the sender the correct one for the gauge?
Chris
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Re: 405: Major Works
You could also have a faulty water pump, I have seen pictures where all of the (plastic) vanes have fallen off the impeller, or the impeller has come loose on the shaft.
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Re: 405: Major Works
. . & I thought plastic impellers were suppose to be the answer to disintegrating vanes. Plus ça change!
A failing HG & a duff WP is not a happy combination - but I can't see the pump being changed at this stage in the proceedings.
A failing HG & a duff WP is not a happy combination - but I can't see the pump being changed at this stage in the proceedings.
Citroens:-
'81 2CV Club
'05 C15
'97 Xantia Exclusive estate
others:-
Jeep XJ Cherokees x 3
'96 Cadillac Eldorado
'99 Cadillac STS
& the numerous "abandoned projects"
'81 2CV Club
'05 C15
'97 Xantia Exclusive estate
others:-
Jeep XJ Cherokees x 3
'96 Cadillac Eldorado
'99 Cadillac STS
& the numerous "abandoned projects"
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Re: 405: Major Works
I'm gonna do a reply each here I think....
Van:-
I’m thinking it might be me, then actually Van; what’s in my ‘sights’ like; re Panda’s in Rome and Twingo’s in Paris; coz it’s the 205’s I remembering noticing in the latter when I was last there in 2017; was surprised that they appeared to out-number 106’s/Saxo’s. Probably the Twingo’s are there in similar, or greater, numbers but I’ve not noticed.
I didn’t like the Yaris seller: within 5 mins I realised he’d omitted to mention an ugly and very obvious tear in the Drivers Seat Back (which seemed surprising at just 107k), even though there were a number of photos, made it clear that he wasn’t budging on price and he’d declared the car to belong to someone else. No loss.
...and pleasingly the Micra in which we'd travelled made it home, up the biggest of the local Hills, quite a stinker it is too. Its clutch is that bad and I think it could be 'Drive-less' really quite soon
Van:-
I’m thinking it might be me, then actually Van; what’s in my ‘sights’ like; re Panda’s in Rome and Twingo’s in Paris; coz it’s the 205’s I remembering noticing in the latter when I was last there in 2017; was surprised that they appeared to out-number 106’s/Saxo’s. Probably the Twingo’s are there in similar, or greater, numbers but I’ve not noticed.
I didn’t like the Yaris seller: within 5 mins I realised he’d omitted to mention an ugly and very obvious tear in the Drivers Seat Back (which seemed surprising at just 107k), even though there were a number of photos, made it clear that he wasn’t budging on price and he’d declared the car to belong to someone else. No loss.
...and pleasingly the Micra in which we'd travelled made it home, up the biggest of the local Hills, quite a stinker it is too. Its clutch is that bad and I think it could be 'Drive-less' really quite soon
Puxa
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Re: 405: Major Works
Chris:-
Thanks again. It’s a 10mm Bore on this so it should be fine, it seems to favour running at about 1/3 full; and so far the Cable Ties are holding it on just fine... you know its properly bodged if its held on with Cable Ties!
I have just yesterday, acquired a pair of 405 Heater Matrix Supply Return Hoses, so hopefully I can do a mock up with the BX Bottle soon, as a permanent fixture.
The engine’s not getting up to temp, look again at the gauge which I gu-estimate represents about 60c; so the lukewarm Heater is a blessing rather than an issue and the Waterpump mentions, thank you both; don't apply. I've never seen a plastic-blade pump for these, but I'm not saying they're not out there.
The Stat, if it were fitted should open at 83c which is of course its ‘Normal’ (quite cool by modern standards I think) and its now usually running at the temp shown which I’m guessing is about 60c.
Its never had a Stat / its been jammed open for the entirety of my 8 years and 94k with it, with my I think well documented cooling system paranoia I’ve never checked; but once I’ve got the / a new lump ready I will be fitting a stat to this one to see how it behaves before it comes out
I think its possible that my ‘lagging measures’ contributed to the worsening of the HG weep to Gatwick & back, my logic is coz of the greater pressure at higher temps; I had air-flow to the rad blanked off in its usual way. I’m happy to have it back in use so it’ll ‘stay cool’. Performance does of course suffer and quite noticeably, as will MPG I’m sure, but primarily I just need it available to use.
It seems I do have poor flow through the Matrix though: thanks for that Chris [smile], so I'm gonna have to do this again! I’m not using the available cut the structure near the Glovebox ‘Hack’. The return has always been a lot cooler than the feed and sadly it seems that’s not normal; I was thinking it was.
It’ll have to keep though! …even though I’ve had a brand new Matrix ready to go for some time, I’m oddly enough, in no hurry to fit it.
Talking of temps by the way…
that mystery green sender behind the Fuel Pot on mine, that was mentioned earlier in this Thread…
Its not present on this na D 405 (on a K, reg and Chassis numbers available) that donated its Matrix Hoses. Disconnecting mine when I had the Airbox off mine and easy access seemed to have no effect, but it had stood overnight, so it was cold, its on the list to try it again with warm coolant before the lump comes out
I was blooming sad to be robbing it of bits by the way, as it looked really sound and well looked after, but its motoring days are clearly over so its the only kind thing to do
Thanks again. It’s a 10mm Bore on this so it should be fine, it seems to favour running at about 1/3 full; and so far the Cable Ties are holding it on just fine... you know its properly bodged if its held on with Cable Ties!
I have just yesterday, acquired a pair of 405 Heater Matrix Supply Return Hoses, so hopefully I can do a mock up with the BX Bottle soon, as a permanent fixture.
The engine’s not getting up to temp, look again at the gauge which I gu-estimate represents about 60c; so the lukewarm Heater is a blessing rather than an issue and the Waterpump mentions, thank you both; don't apply. I've never seen a plastic-blade pump for these, but I'm not saying they're not out there.
The Stat, if it were fitted should open at 83c which is of course its ‘Normal’ (quite cool by modern standards I think) and its now usually running at the temp shown which I’m guessing is about 60c.
Its never had a Stat / its been jammed open for the entirety of my 8 years and 94k with it, with my I think well documented cooling system paranoia I’ve never checked; but once I’ve got the / a new lump ready I will be fitting a stat to this one to see how it behaves before it comes out
I think its possible that my ‘lagging measures’ contributed to the worsening of the HG weep to Gatwick & back, my logic is coz of the greater pressure at higher temps; I had air-flow to the rad blanked off in its usual way. I’m happy to have it back in use so it’ll ‘stay cool’. Performance does of course suffer and quite noticeably, as will MPG I’m sure, but primarily I just need it available to use.
It seems I do have poor flow through the Matrix though: thanks for that Chris [smile], so I'm gonna have to do this again! I’m not using the available cut the structure near the Glovebox ‘Hack’. The return has always been a lot cooler than the feed and sadly it seems that’s not normal; I was thinking it was.
It’ll have to keep though! …even though I’ve had a brand new Matrix ready to go for some time, I’m oddly enough, in no hurry to fit it.
Talking of temps by the way…
that mystery green sender behind the Fuel Pot on mine, that was mentioned earlier in this Thread…
Its not present on this na D 405 (on a K, reg and Chassis numbers available) that donated its Matrix Hoses. Disconnecting mine when I had the Airbox off mine and easy access seemed to have no effect, but it had stood overnight, so it was cold, its on the list to try it again with warm coolant before the lump comes out
I was blooming sad to be robbing it of bits by the way, as it looked really sound and well looked after, but its motoring days are clearly over so its the only kind thing to do
Puxa