HDI rattling heard when accelerating

[Peter.N.]

You can get a build up of crud in the injectors which pushing serious ammounts diesel through will shift.

Peter

[charentejohn]

Hopefully lots of diesel at the right temp will help.

Not so much professor plum as idiot with a spanner wot done it. When I bought the car, just before Xmas I thought the temp gauge wasn't working but just no thermostat, so temp never got above 40C. I did notice on all invoices for work a can of fuel cleaner was used, so I would guess this was to compensate for gunge buildup, or then again they could have just made the engine run right. In the end a thermostat would have been cheaper than regular 6 monthly cleanings.

[SALMANHAMEED]

charentejohn, how did you resolve the rattling noise problem? I have a DS5 and i have done 129k mileage on it. I am experiencing exactly the same noise when i accelerate.

[GiveMeABreak]

Welcome to the Forum, but near in mind that post was over 5 years ago now...

[falling-out-with-my-car]

It might not even be mechanical at all.

I had this dreaded problem with my newish used Mk2 C5 and it bugged me for ages.
I initially thought it was the undertray beneath the engine, but it wasn't and it definitely wasn't mechanical.
even though it sounded mechanical,

after paying an extremely extortionate amount for an original OEM undertray and inner wing guards then asking Pleiades to fit it all.
The noise came back straightaway. so I went back to Pleiades and Simon opened the bonnet and started to search
for anything that might rattle during acceleration.

Low an behold it was the Bonnet lining, The little plastic clips had punctured holes the same size as their heads in the lining
as the wind drawn into the front vents progressed up under the bonnet lining the lining would flap rapidly in the wind.
especially loud during acceleration.

I had to make some very thin over sized washers out of the tops of fly spray cans so the little black fixings held the lining securely.

the can lids are red so it now looks like Ive got a row of poppies holding in my bonnet lining.

The noise has never come back again. I hope this works for you. certainly worth a try.

The lining was only moving about 3mm, its surprizing how little it needed to flap to make this dreadful rattling noise.

regards.

Nigel.

[Hell Razor5543]

Nigel, that is useful to know. Thanks for posting.

[falling-out-with-my-car]

its an old thread but worth Knowing.

Thanks.

Nigel.

[RPWC]

My 10 plate Dispatch does this when pulling away from cold, so far I have replaced all 4 injectors, man sensor, and fuel filter,mchanged oil and filter and it still does it. . I came across this thread via google.

[FranklinJ]

My Peugeot 3008 (2012) 1.6 HDi is semi-automatic. and has an annoying deep and hollow sounding rattle when the engine labours in a low gear, typically turning on an up hill ‘T’ junction, in second gear where the engine is under a higher load than usual.
The rattle was first noticed about 3 years or so after purchasing the vehicle in 2012 and appears to come from the clutch housing and seems to be produced as a result of the low engine pulsing frequency.
However, the clutch (with dual mass flywheel) operates perfectly well and there are no signs of this rattling at higher engine speeds.
I think the fuel injector theory I see in this thread can be ruled out as I have just replaced all the injectors, for another reason; and they have all been coded with the ecu.

I would be most grateful if anyone has had similar experience and/or is knowledgeable in this matter and can throw some light on the cause of this problem.

[Peter.N.]

Sounds as though it could be the DMF I'm afraid. Does it do it if you rev it in neutral?. I would be inclined to put up with it and try and not drive it under conditions that make it rattle. You can get some wear in the DMF which doesn't affect its operation but makes it noisy. Whatever you do its a gearbox out job so I would be inclined to put up with it.

I have had slipping clutches last many thousands of miles if you drive in such a way that you don't let it slip.

Peter

[ImNoExpert]

And....

Check the crank pulley, these fall apart, and the first sign is rattling, especially when cold.
If the noise is quite distinct, and then suddenly stops when you get to a particular rpm (might be 3,200) it is a worn injector - instead of helping to reduce pre-ignition, they dribble a bit, and cause more pre-ingnition! The ECU cuts this at 3200 rpm, and the noise switches off

No way..........I've been asking round forums for 10 months and local garages........Noise on acceleration that changes at different rpms/ low power output, loads of smoke at start up.......

DON'T TELL ME IT'S A WORN INJECTOR AFTER CHANGING OVER £500 IN PARTS??? LOL

[RichardW]

That injector rattle was the old 90bhp 2.0, not heard about it on more recent engines, what engine are you dealing with?

[ImNoExpert]

That injector rattle was the old 90bhp 2.0, not heard about it on more recent engines, what engine are you dealing with?

I've a 2015 Expert 2.0hdi 130bhp. I don't have any codes on the van and never have, but the noise changes on acceleration and it's not as quick as it should be.

My FAP app suggests Turbo Position copy sensor issue, confirmed also with Diagbox v9........but other than that, no real issues. Just takes too long to get to 60. About 17 seconds.

Very early on a young mechanic suggested the Injectors, but it's runs smoothly and ticks over and starts......To me it feel like a constriction/blockage/or fuel delivery. But it could be a combination of them all.

So far only thing not inspected is Injectors.

Unless you have some advice/guidance on what to look for using Diagbox?

[myglaren]

Have you looked at the MAF?
Could need cleaning. I had similar symptoms, removed the MAF (be very careful and gentle with it!) and sprayed the fine wires with carburretor spray. Do not touch them with anything other than the spray.
There is a MAF spray available now.
The improvement was electric.

MAF may be worse and cleaning won't help. If you replace it get a genuine one from Citroen, after market ones have been shown not not last more than a few months

[ImNoExpert]

Have you looked at the MAF?
Could need cleaning. I had similar symptoms, removed the MAF (be very careful and gentle with it!) and sprayed the fine wires with carburretor spray. Do not touch them with anything other than the spray.
There is a MAF spray available now.
The improvement was electric.

MAF may be worse and cleaning won't help. If you replace it get a genuine one from Citroen, after market ones have been shown not not last more than a few months

It's a brand new MAF/MAP and all 3 solenoids on the back that control EGR Turbo and Air Doser.