Mk1 c5 driver side inner tierod end

[Gibbo2286]

I seem to recall that some of the GKN racks (maybe others too) had an interconnecting pipe between the boots on each side.

[GiveMeABreak]

Very possible that these are non-OEM replacements in that case - but can't see how they could list them as correct / equivalent replacements if they have these return pipes in as that would require additional work to plumb them in. Unless they were an aftermarket modification possibly.

[RichardW]

Looks like they are original, but just missed off the parts diagram for some reason! If you look up the boot on e-bay (part no 406674), they all have a spigot on the side, and if you look at this complete rack and zoom in you can see there is a link pipe between the bellows as Gibbo suggests.

Every day is a school day!!

[cornesoutafrica]

Ok.

Replaced my inner tierod end. It was straight forward. The idea of no lockingplate to keep the inner tierod in place is quite alarming....

Anycase. My old tierod end did not seem to have mich play. But replaced it anycase and it made a significant difference. I include a picture of the boot. Notice the return pipe which seems to extend as I pulled the boot off. I did not remove the boot completely but enough to get the boot off the tierod end. No leakage from the rack.

It seems I have some play on the knuckle or the spline shaft under the dash too. There is a bit of play. After some lube spray it quiet down but the play is still there. So seemingly that needs replacement too. Basically the unit on the inside of the car. Under the dash, which connects to the steering rack, the knuckle and the upper spline shaft unit is worn out.

Guess next in line that will need replacement. Clearly miles done don’t kill a car but the age even worse! She has done 50000miles from new.

[cornesoutafrica]

Haha. Seems we are never old enough to learn something new!

Interesting world indeed

[GiveMeABreak]

That'll be in my next email to PSA concerning database errors...

[cornesoutafrica]

I have a non related question which I forget to ask.

My c5 got the light gray interior. The light gray parts of the dash and the central console is unbelievably sticky. Horrible to touch. Anyone ever encoutered this? What was your solution to get it off and what causes it?

[GiveMeABreak]

It may be that it is the plastic itself disintegrating. I’ve seen this happening before where the plastic just becomes very sticky and when you try and wipe it away it still remains tacky. I’ve heard it’s the actual plastic breaking down through age.

I do hope it’s not that and that it is something else you might have cleaned it with that is reacting with the plastic maybe?

Although this wasnt a car dash, I tried using glue remover, sticky stuff remover, citrus based cleaners and even some spiritbased cleaners, but all to no avail

[cornesoutafrica]

Marc

Same thing here. Tried many things. I doubt the plastic is getting brittle... yet. I was worried that the gray was indeed only sprayed over the dark gray plastic. It seems not to be the case. I tried cleaning with benzyne (only a small spot to test so far) and afterwards autoglym interior cleaner with a toothbrush. It seemed to work pretty good. I guess if you take your time it might get off. Im unsure what the previous owner did with the dash cleaning for this to have happened. The other mk2 c5 here at my place got the dark gray interior and looks like its not suffering at all...

[GiveMeABreak]

That's good to hear.

If it had been the inner door handle trims - they are indeed only covered with a very thin plastic 'skin' or plastic paint that is so thin that a ring or anything slightly rough over time will cause it to tear and peel off. But the dash console at least should have some better treatment.

[cornesoutafrica]

Hi Mark.

Atleast it has better protection onthe dash. That thin plastic is just awful. Noticed that finish on Audi’s of the same era. It looks bad rather soon!

Im not keen on opening another thread so here goes another story... the spheres...

I replaced my c5’s front spheres with units from IFHS.
My diagnostic tool just don’t want to read the suspension ECU. So I went at it manually. Weirdly enough. After lowering and getting wheels in air with the battery disconnected there were absolutely zero pressure in the suspension. I say that because when I opened the bleed nipple on the front central sphere regulator there were no fluid coming out at all.

Ok. Continued to loosening the suspension spheres at the front. They were on pretty tight. Got them off and apon removal and turning it I heard a metallic sound inside the sphere. I shook it and it sounded exactly as a dead DS sphere. Is that a normal thing on a c5 sphere?

I put the old oem sphere next to the IFHS sphere. First of all. The new one was lighter (old one full of oil possibly?) and secondly. The IFHS had a smaller central hole in the shock. It seems as if there is a small wire in the bigger central hole of the OEM sphere.

Went ahead. Installed them.
Got underneath for the central sphere. That was a mission. Space is limited. After loosening the regulator I got exactly one position to get the old one out and new one in. After a while it was in position. While doing all this the LDS got replaced. Well 4 liters of the stuff.(steering rack also emptied by slowly turning wheel lock to lock) Lowered car and did the whole connect battery and leave a while. As soon as I opened the door the pump started to prime. It needed some pressure. Eventually voila. She was at normal height. Moved on to bleeding the suspension from the front central sphere bleed nipple. Alot of airbubbles escaped there. Wow. Thought it won’t end. After about a liter of foam/oil came out I added a bit of fluid and took car for a drive and it felt horrible. Front suspension felt exactly like a car with shocks that are finished. Wheel bounced if I hit a slight imperfection on the road but also. The ride was very harsh. Steering was also a bit notchy at certain positions.. Came home and bled the system some more. Way less air came out. But quite a bit did. Eventually a clear stream came out. Took her for a drive and it felt better. Then you could clearly hear the inner tierod end which I replaced yesterday.

Took her for a 20 km drive on some bad roads. The drive was a bit too harsh for my taste. Turned around drove back and she seemed smoother... after a bit of thinking. Do you guys think that the central hole on the OEM sphere that is bigger can be a more plush ride than the IFHS spheres?

I include a picture of the oem and IFHS sphere

That is when I could clearly feel

[GiveMeABreak]

2 things, did you get the correct spheres with the correct pressures, volume and diameter and secondly bleeding.

To bleed the system remove the LDS cap then raise to the highest setting, then lower to the lowest setting.

Keep the engine running and turn the steering wheel very slowly full lock left to right for 10 cycles, then return to centre position. Check the LDS level is correct. This should allow all the fizz and air bubbles to escape. Repeat for another 5 cycles until all the fizz stops.

the car should be on the lowest setting, undo the LFS cap

[cornesoutafrica]

I gave them my car’s VIN and they sent me these spheres. Ons the box it specifically states it is for a 3.0 v6 and the 2.2 HDI. I can give the specs of the new spheres?

I did axactly that. Lowered and raised the car quite a few times and the steering turn lock to lock. More than 10 times. Steering is now perfect. But the spheres is still suspect. Will send the new spheres specs. Possibly someone with the knowledge will be able to tell if they are indeed correct...

[GiveMeABreak]

I’ll look them up shortly, but no need to keep raising and lowering to bleed. Only do this once and then the lock to lock must be done slowly in the lowest position only.

[GiveMeABreak]

Corne: I've posted the Sphere types, part numbers and pressures for your specific 3.0 here, to keep the thread separate:

C5 3.0 ES9J4 Suspension Spheres Chart