Irish Activa

XantiaMan · Unread post by **XantiaMan** » 30 Mar 2010, 21:52

Mine was blowing really bad but had no noticeable smell of fumes.

The turbo manifold is equally prone to cracking, as it gets extremely hot, and many cars have not always had the correct cool down procedure after a run. My ex-Activa was badly cracked on the main outlet on the manifold. I did document it with pictures. A very good replacement was sourced instead of repair.

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 30 Mar 2010, 22:00

robert_e_smart wrote: Its a pity I have to change the heater matrix on it as well, but its not all that bad a job. As long as I don't break the screen again when removing the scuttle panel I'll be flying.

I missed this bit Robert... Now there speaks a true enthusiast, one who does not bulk at a heater matrix! I take it you have previous experience

Indeed, it's just a long tedious job and not outright difficult but the turbo induction pipes severely limit access to the matrix connector elbow and to give yourself a fighting chance, remove them so you can get better purchase on the connector. Also, attack the connector with the engine very hot so the coolant is hot and under pressure. It helps.

Also, no need to remove the LHM reservoir to get at the RH heater box bolt. Split the heater box instead by undoing the two bolts top and bottom that hold the two halves of the heater box together. You can just then manouvre the half containing the matrix just far enough out to swap the matrix.

The scuttle panel is best attacked with a heat gun (go careful to avoid cracking the glass) and a very sharp flexible craft knife. The retractable Stanley with the snap-off blades is a perfect tool for the job.

Reseal with automotive grade silicone paying special attention to the area above the heater intake.

Easier than a manifold gasket any day of the week...

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 30 Mar 2010, 22:33

XantiaMan wrote: The turbo manifold is equally prone to cracking, as it gets extremely hot, and many cars have not always had the correct cool down procedure after a run. My ex-Activa was badly cracked on the main outlet on the manifold.

Have you the pictures handy for inclusion in this thread Gareth? I seem to recall they were internal cracks in the ports, certainly caused by heat.

The old NA 8V manifolds used to really crack big-time right across and blow a treat. You could hear them ticking like a clock when cold and over time they'd close up with heat expansion and quieten down.

robert_e_smart · Unread post by **robert_e_smart** » 30 Mar 2010, 22:56

I'd rather do the matrix than the manifold anyday. I have done a matrix before a couple of years ago, a weekend did it, taking my time, and not letting my temper get in the way of things.

I have read your guide on removing the rear ram, and it doesn't look easy at all. Hopefully I can avoid taking it out.

lefgrter · Unread post by **lefgrter** » 08 Apr 2010, 17:48

Look at that....

http://begelou.free.fr/docs/xantia/verin/tuto_verin.pdf

and that

http://www.planete-citroen.com/forum/sh ... hp?t=71183
the following photos are from the above link

Both are in french but thanks to google translation are readable.

Maybe it is a good fix for the return pipe problem

Total cost under 10 euros

Jim thanks for yor time to help me with rear ram

Regards
Lefteris

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 08 Apr 2010, 20:46

That's excellent Lefteris

Many thanks for finding this!

The link to Planete Citroen is only available of you register and log in first. I did!

The substitute collar is from a XM and goes under the Part. No. 95640212. The article says it is used on the BX and XM but I can only find it listed for the XM.

It's the leakage return collar on the end of the steering ram and here's the relevant page from Laser showing it.. Item 8 described as a "Leak Back Union"

Hopefully, they are not NFP and are available. I shall soon find out.

These will be good for the front but too small for the rear sadly.

Off to look at your other link now Lefteris

lefgrter · Unread post by **lefgrter** » 09 Apr 2010, 07:24

The link to Planete Citroen is only available of you register and log in first

This forum has excelent tutorials with many pictures. Unfortunately google translation canot translate entire pages and someone must copy and paste the text to read it in English.

Hopefully, they are not NFP and are available. I shall soon find out.

Yes they are available. I have just ordered one. i will have it in about 10 days from France again.

I dont have a problem with my front ram now, but i am prepairing for that in the future.

The second link is a tutorial for the front ram mod

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 09 Apr 2010, 08:06

Good idea to get some in stock just in case Lefteris...

It's worth learning French just to appreciate Planete Citroen..

A fair translation can be got by using the Google Chrome browser to look at it and then using Chrome's translation utility.

It works quite well. Spheres become balls, Activa Rams become cylinders and leakage returns become back-leaks

Google Chrome also allows translation of the registration pages for the forum, making joining relatively easier. It does not translate the text on the buttons though..

I shall be scouring Laser to see if there is a suitable gaiter for the rear ram...

The PDF showing how to dismantle a ram gives me yet more ideas....

robert_e_smart · Unread post by **robert_e_smart** » 09 Apr 2010, 11:01

This is the repair that I had found on planete citroen. I have a XM PAS ram return boot thing on order from my local Citroen dealer.

Its on back order at the moment, but will hopefully be available soon.

I was going to do a detailed tutorial thing on it once I had tried it, and was happy that it worked successfully.

Planete Citroen is an absolute gold mine of information.

Being fluent in French is handy!

PS the bush arrived yesterday Jim, Thanks.

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 09 Apr 2010, 13:04

robert_e_smart wrote:Its on back order at the moment, but will hopefully be available soon.

Ditto

I have a quantity on back-order! They are extremely keenly priced too so I could afford a fistful

robert_e_smart wrote: PS the bush arrived yesterday Jim, Thanks.

Excellent

XantiaDaveEire · Unread post by **XantiaDaveEire** » 11 Apr 2010, 22:20

Where abouts are you located Robert

How much did she cost if im not been too cheeky

Dave

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 20 Apr 2010, 21:30

I've now carried out a full trial repair on a front ram using the XM leakback union. I've done it a little differently to how our French cousins did theirs.

I've done the job on a duff ram (has a scored piston, so is scrap) to practice and next I'll move onto doing it for real...

Once I'm happy it works, I'll do a webpage on it and then do the same on a rear ram.

There are a lot of devils in the detail which the French skipped over...

Here's a photo sequence of the job:

Removing the top balljoint using a specially thinned 14mm spanner...

Pulling off the gaiter..

Pulling the inner sleeve in a kinder way using a bearing extractor rather than pipe grips...

Removing the old leakage return collar...

Reducing the length of the inner sleeve...

Preparing a good sealing surface...

Replacing the shortened inner sleeve...

Fitting the XM leakback Union onto the ram...

Fitting the first of two sphere sealing rings to make a good seal on the top and to make up a diameter deficiency between the gaiter and inner sleeve....

Checking the sphere seals are level...

Installing ty-raps on the gaiter...

Trimming the gaiter to length...

Fitting the "olive" made from the trimmed off part of the inner sleeve to act as a bottom locater and support for the gaiter...

Job done!

There are a lot more words and detail to add but not until it is proved to be a good 'un...

XantiaMan · Unread post by **XantiaMan** » 20 Apr 2010, 21:53

Very neat Jim, will the cable ties be enough though?

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 20 Apr 2010, 22:05

XantiaMan wrote:Very neat Jim, will the cable ties be enough though?

Yes, they'll be fine Gareth, as there is no movement on the leakback gaiter at all. The French did not even use ties in their method. The gaiter is quite tight even without them. They're only there for a bit of belt and braces.

I was more concerned about keeping the outer concertina gaiter well located at the bottom as grit on the piston rod is fatal if it gets scored.

robert_e_smart · Unread post by **robert_e_smart** » 21 Apr 2010, 11:54

Great work Jim,

I better chase my dealer to get the parts in.

Did you need to trim the inner sleeve? I had a look at the PAS leakback union on a BX that I broke at the weekend, and it seems to be nearer in size to the original acitva one than the Xm type.

I hope that is seals well when ou try it on an operational ram.

Regards

Robert