Good to hear everything is ok! I know how much it can be frustrating that the car is not working properly and you really rely on it...
For the return pipe... You could use a fuel resistant tube and a T-piece or just make a new "connection" on the LHM tank and route each separately. I have none T-pieces on my car so every return pipe is routed separately (well a lest the "important" ones)... You probably seen this image before...
A temporary patch of that crack could be done by cleaning the outside of the pipe thoroughly (wipe with solvent) and applying a decent layer of polyurethane adhesive. That stuff will be proof against LHM.
The stuff I have here is in a standard builder's cartridge, and is made by Henkel.
It's PU298 Solyplast, under the Pattex label. There are undoubtedly other grades.
Builders' merchants here sell it, in black, white, grey, terracotta, etc.
Bit thicker than silicone goo, it goes on smoothly like thick honey, and then air-cures to a resilient 'rubber'.
Have even used it to repair light-duty suspension bushes.
Adheres to any dry and clean surface.
Bit like silicone, but much heavier duty. Cap it after use: you won't get it out of the cartridge nozzle!
Have used it successfully to seal edge of windscreen surround rubber to the glass, and also to install a new sunroof edge seal. It's very similar to what windscreen installers use to bond glass to body; needs 'knifing' or 'cheesewiring' apart afterwards. Essentially, it's "liquid rubber".
1997 Xantia S1 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive in Silex Grey 2011 Peugeot Ion Full Electric in Silver 1998 Xantia S2 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive 1997 Xantia S1 2.0i Auto VSX 1978 CX 2400 1977 G Special 1129cc LHD
Good price. Be aware, though, that there are literally hundreds/thousands of polyurethane compounds, from mattress and upholstery foam to shoe soles and suspension bushes. Some like bath-sponge, some actually solid.
Builders'/construction PU narrows it down a lot, to the sort of thing we're talking about here.
I would not use it for the Xantia windscreen scuttle trim or other applications involving glass (or plastic trim), as it is too difficult to cut and remove when necessary.
We are just having our shower cabinet rebuilt following botched post-earthquake repairs, and the custom made plate-glass door surrounds are having to be scrapped because the glass had been bonded into the channels with polyurethane, and could not be cut out or prised off. Use a glaziers silicone sealant for this, as it can always be cut out with a knife.
You are right, David. There is an applications crossover point for silicone vs polyurethane. Where ready removal, or support of lightweight items is concerned, silicone is a better choice. PU can withstand huge stresses (eg strut tops, suspension bushes, windscreen installation) but removal takes some effort. PU also bonds to surfaces much more firmly, so can be suited to items such as windscreen surround rubbers, which have an on-going tendency to 'lift', and would defeat silicone.
Silicone is not a good adhesive as it is a poor in shear and tension, it is also poor against UV unless it is "filled" (which reduces the resistance to shear and tension forces even more). It also will not bond chemically to either glass or any plastics which contain a plasticiser (most), the best you get is "grip" from its ability to flow at a microscopic level.
The glazier who is redoing our shower also does classic car glass replacement, so I will ask him what product he would use in this application, but I won't be seeing him for a couple of weeks when the tiling is complete.
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