Boot lock (at my wits end)
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Boot lock (at my wits end)
Sloblocks I Have just spent a good 3 hours at the w/end sorting out the boot lock only for it to fail as soon as I put all the liner back on (worked all day saturday + sunday then stopped sunday evening after I put it back together. I now think that it must be the "electronic ram" that operates the locking mechanism as sometimes it makes a noise but doesn't move far then after 3-5 turns of the door key (alarm keeps going off so can't use remote (a job for later) it locks shut. Also it seems to do it more often when being unlocked as well. Anyway moan over I got a price from Citroen for £62 for new "ram" I would just like to confirm that I'm on the right track before forking out this much money or can anyone suggest another source. GSF unfortunatly don't do one. Gutted.
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I have the same problem. Removed the trim and the liner to get at the actuating so establish the problem - it never missed a beat. So i cleaned and lubricated everything, still working, reassembled - same situation as before I stripped it. I cannot see how the trim would cause the problem. I am now begining to suspect a wiring problem as in a famous Citroen intermittant earth. If I find anything I'll post it. Good hunting
Jon
Jon
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I've had exactly that problem. I went to Cit garage for the actuator and it was £55 + VAT!!
I looked on ebay and got one from alarmsdirect112 for £7.50 on a Buy it now including postage and was amazed to find that it was shipped from Florida! Good service too. The mounting holes were the same distance apart but were offset from the side. I drilled 2 new holes in the mounting plate on the tailgate - easy to do as it's plastic! The 2 leads coming from the new actuator were fitted with bullet conns. I cut these off, bared the wires and stuck them into the socket that supplied the old actuator and operated the lock by remote to get the actuator pushing when it should push and pulling back when it should. If it works the wrong way then reverse the 2 wires. When you are happy that it's doing that then use Scotchlocks to make a permanent job.
The actuator was also about 10mm too far to the right making the throw wrong. You can either adjust the new holes that you need drill by that amount or take the easy option of making a new linking rod which is easy to do as you get a straight length of suitable rod with the actuator. Make it the same as the old one but about 10mm longer. All will be revealed when you try it.
Works a treat
Derek
I looked on ebay and got one from alarmsdirect112 for £7.50 on a Buy it now including postage and was amazed to find that it was shipped from Florida! Good service too. The mounting holes were the same distance apart but were offset from the side. I drilled 2 new holes in the mounting plate on the tailgate - easy to do as it's plastic! The 2 leads coming from the new actuator were fitted with bullet conns. I cut these off, bared the wires and stuck them into the socket that supplied the old actuator and operated the lock by remote to get the actuator pushing when it should push and pulling back when it should. If it works the wrong way then reverse the 2 wires. When you are happy that it's doing that then use Scotchlocks to make a permanent job.
The actuator was also about 10mm too far to the right making the throw wrong. You can either adjust the new holes that you need drill by that amount or take the easy option of making a new linking rod which is easy to do as you get a straight length of suitable rod with the actuator. Make it the same as the old one but about 10mm longer. All will be revealed when you try it.
Works a treat
Derek
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don't know what you are using to clean the actuator, but i had quite a good result with switch cleaner when repairing the c/l on my volvo 850. i know it's a totally different car but i assume that the actuators are basically the same, ie an electric motor and some cogs etc. the symptom on my car was that 12v applied to the actuator motor did spin it but with virtually no torque. i prised the top off the motor and squirted switch cleaner on the commutator/brushes, rotated by hand and repeated a couple of times. when dry the motor had loads more torque and the central locking has worked fine for about five weeks now.
it's amazing how often things that are supposed to be not serviceable can be repaired and how often it takes nothing more than cleaning and/or lubricating.
hope this helps.
mjr
it's amazing how often things that are supposed to be not serviceable can be repaired and how often it takes nothing more than cleaning and/or lubricating.
hope this helps.
mjr
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