Modified C5 X7 Steering Rack

[bobins]

I've fitted a very low mileage used steering rack to my C5 this afternoon. It was a genuine Citroen one manufactured within the last two years and came off a car that had only done a few thousand miles since fitting. The main difference with the rack is that it's been modified by Citroen to combat the rusting pinion shaft issue
They have really gone to town and must have spent ages in the R+D department and spent an absolute fortune to completely overhaul the design of the pinion shaft in order to stop the rusting problem. Or maybe not

That green ring in the picture - well that's it !!

Own work

It fits tight into the small recess above the seal and wedges between the body and shaft. I tapped it home after I took the photo below.

Own work

Have to admit though - it'd kept the shaft lovely and clean where it sits I've smothered the whole area in a protective wax before I fitted it to the car just to try and delay the inevitable.

Replacing the rack wasn't too much of a drama - a few naughty words were used this afternoon, but I reckon I could do it a lot faster now I know just what to undo and what to shift out of the way. Probably a three (maybe four) spanner rating - but you do need a good selection of tools to do the job

[KennyW]

Bobbins,

Have you got enough photos etc to do a how to guide ?

Kenny

[bobins]

'fraid I didn't take any photos during the replacement of the rack It's actually a relatively straight forward job with nothing too complex - it's just that there's quite a few things to be undone...... and some of them may prove reluctant to undo
The job basically consists of dropping down the under-engine subframe to allow the rack to be slid out to the driver's side.

Spray everything in sight liberally with Plus Gas.
Car on axle stands (LDS cap removed if on liquid suspension) keeping stands away from all subframe mounting bolts and the subframe itself.
Lock the steering wheel in the straight ahead position.
Disconnect battery - usual procedure for safe battery disconnection.
Wheels off.
Track rod ends disconnected.
Clamp LDS outlet pipe from reservoir to reduce fluid loss from rack pipes when they're disconnected.
Disconnect bottom of steering column in driver's footwell (13mm nut, shift safety clip, remove bolt).
Undo (2x 10mm nuts hidden under rubber caps) and remove large rubber steering column seal in bottom of footwell.
Undo and remove 10mm nut on passenger end of steering rack that holds the pipes to the rack - accessible from passenger side wheel arch.
Undo and remove 2x 21mm nuts that hold the rack to the subframe - 21mm deep socket required.

Support subframe with trolley jack. The following procedure is to unbolt and lower the whole subframe.
Undo and remove 4x 16mm head nuts / bolts (two either side) that join the front of the main subframe to the ally tubes that go to the front of the car.
Undo and remove the bolt (18mm?) that secures the rear lower end of the engine to the subframe.
Undo and remove the 2x 21mm head bolts (one either side) that secure the subrame behind the suspension units. The nuts to these are hidden behind stupid plastic covers which will inevitably break. I didn't lose any sleep over them
Undo and remove the 4x 18mm head bolts and 2x 21mm bolts at the rear of the subframe - remove the 2x steel yokes.
The subframe should now be free to lower just enough to enable better access to the Torx screw that holds the power steering pipes into steering rack. Undo and remove that screw.

Ease out the pipes - catch the fluid as it runs out. Fat chance - it'll go all over the subframe and run out in about half a dozen places
Clean up the mess as best you can.
Drop the subframe as low as you can - it doesn't need to be removed from the car - just dropped down low.
Remove the rack from the subframe - you may need to tap the rack bolts from below to get it free. It'd also benefit to have someone at the other end of the rack to make sure it comes upwards squarely and doesn't bind on its long bolts.
The rack comes out best from the driver's side.
Replacement is a reverse.... etc, etc.
To bleed the system for a car on metal suspension - top up the fluid reservoir, start the car and let it idle for a few minutes. Keep an eye on fluid level at all times. With the wheels on the ground, turn the steering all the way from left to right a few times. Do not hold the steering at its left or right extreme. Check fluid level. Job done.


Torque settings :
21mm head bolts 140Nm
18mm head bolts 100Nm
16mm head bolts 65Nm

Notes:
The power steering pipes are sometimes known to leak once refitted. Citroen only sell the pipes complete - not the O rings that do the sealing. The O rings look like standard HNBR O rings, I'm currently testing some HNBR rings in LDS fluid to see if they're stable. The two sizes of ring are approx 8mm int dia x 2mm thickness, and 9.1mm int dia x 2mm.
It may be easier to initially fit the replacement rack without its mounting studs, then use a small pair of Stilsons on the unthreaded portion, or two nuts locked to the studs to wind the studs up into the rack.
It's highly likely it'll be difficult to initally remove the track rod end Nyloc nuts. These nuts are metric fine thread 12mm x 1.5pitch in case you want to have spares in stock
Before refitting, spray / cover the pinion shaft on the replacement rack in whatever anti-rust / water repelling / greasy / slimey substance that you have to hand.
A car on metal suspension will need 1 litre of LDS or Fluide DA to refill it.

Comments, clarifications or corrections welcomed.

[KennyW]

Thanks Bobbins,

Most comprehensive very similar to other racks I've done in the past. I'm still on the original and I'm thinking of getting a second hand in readiness for the inevitable happening.
I assume the later racks fit both estate and saloon.

Kenny

[bobins]

My replacement one was p/n 9801415480. There's no difference between saloon and estate, manual or auto, but there is a difference between those originally fitted with 16 " wheels (1.6Hdi engined ?) and those with 17",18", and 19" wheels (all other engines ?). 16" wheels have a long travel rack 92mm/92mm, and the 17", 18", + 19" wheeled ones have a short travel rack 90mm/90mm. I can't imagine your world will come crashing down if you fit the wrong one though
I did consider removing mine and sending it off to be reconditioned, but was a little wary that - depending on the reconditioner - the pinion shaft may get little more than a quick whizz with a wire brush and emery paper before being put back in with some new seals. Considering this was the state of the old one, you can see why I was a little hesitant

Own work

[bobins]

I don't know when the modified racks were first introduced, but it's fairly easy to check the condition of your pinion and seals by following the procedure above for disconnecting the steering column in the footwell. You might need a camera or mirror and torch to see the seals (or eyes on stalks ), but it'd be a good close up view of what state it's in.

[Paul-R]

Mmm, I wonder if that green plastic sleeve could be the cause of the "stiction" I occasionally get when turning the steering wheel.

[bobins]

I'd be surprised if it could cause any noticeable resistance as it's only a tiddly little sleeve. Maybe if there's a bit of crud wedged down there with it it could ?

[Estately]

Hi Bobins,

Thanks for the write up and especially the tip to check the state of the pinion seal through the footwell, where the leak can be confirmed. (and the torq loading figures)
Given that I normally support the front of the car on the subframe, where did you put the stands for this job.
Mine shows evidence of jacking adjacent to and inboard of the official jacking point where there is a bung of some sort on each side.

Disappointed C5 X7 owner, only done 65k miles.
Andy.

[bobins]

I jacked on the sills as per usual, then used axle stands with flat load spreaders as close to the rearmost subframe fixing bolts as I could get them.

[Estately]

Had my rack re conditioned but it was tested with and contained mineral oil. They pumped it out by working the rack from side to side and then re centered it.
My car is hydractive 3 so did not want anything other than LDS in the system.
Once home it was tipped at all angles to try and drain the remaining oil out followed by several blasts with an air line.
When fitted back on the car managed to flush some LDS through by connecting only the pressure side (top connection) and a well fitting plastic pipe into the low pressure side and running the engine for a few seconds until a container was filled with LDs passing through the rack. The rack was not connected to the steering column it just remained centred.
While the rack was off the car the supply pipes were capped off with plastic caps collected from those supplied with diesel filters, they were a good fit and nothing leaked out, also stretched some cling film under the LDS tank cap not sure if it helped reduce leakage (note to self, remove cling film when all is connected).

I caused extra work by attaching the pipe clip to the rack (clips the low pressure pipe down) on the passenger (left hand) side before fitting the low pressure pipe into the rack, well at that time there was plenty of room. It was an irritating mistake having to undo it again before the other end would fit into the rack without straining the pipe.

Andy.

[jgra1]

thanks Bobins

its a git really .. but made a lot easier with the guide..
I have some possible addendums from my 163 Hdi.

Engine rear lower mounting is a 16mm bolt
2 x 10mm nuts are holding an exhaust mounting (I wondered why the exhaust fell when the subframe lowered) - these bolts were to eventually stop any more subframe drop, until removed.
The input shaft can catch on the oval access between then cabin and engine bay, keep an eye on it.
Despite lowering as much as the Sub would go on the jack, in the end the jack was no longer doing anything and I needed leverage timbers, and a SWIMBO, to have any hope of getting the long bolts out. If these bolts can be removed first (with locking nuts) do it! I will try on my rack tomorrow to see what happens.

Its out! its dark and I am soaked.. Gin, wine, food are the current tasks..

[EDC5]

I recently greased the pinion shaft on mum's C5 and found the green ring had migrated all the way up into the rubber floor bung.

Might have to put it back into the top of the pinion turret.

Thinking about it, when I greased my X7 the green ring was also not in the top of the pinon turret either!

[KennyW]

John,

I take it you dropped the subframe sufficient to remove the rack from the driver's side.

How did you find the bolts and nuts which hold the subframe to front suspension. I replaced the bolts with new ones because mine were badly corroded. They required breaker bar, scaffolding pole and 22mm spanner on the nut held in place by front suspension frame.

Kenny

[jgra1]

Hi Kenny, the subframe wont go down any further

The 2 bolts that are too the outside and about half way along the subframe (front to back) are the main bolts holding it to the shell. On mine 21mm, with non-locking 21mm nuts hidden in little chambers in the structure, with a black plastic anti locking things on (mine broke like bobbins ) - they were ok. i thought they would be a nightmare as rusty but one was quite easy, one needed some back and forwards care!

Looking at it, i don't think there is much difference in which side the rack comes out of, it's just easier on drivers side as the pinion housing has les travel before it's free..

Another addition to the job.. the harness to the Height Corrector seemed to get in the way a bit. I removed the plug from its mount and also unplugged it.

with the rack out, I did undo the main mounting studs - definitely would recommend undoing these before rack removal! 2 nuts locking together (just use the two rack nuts themselves, or the two nuts from the main subframe mounts that you've already undone.



Now I need the seals. I will re-read posts but has anyone actually bought any from anywhere?

I also need to flush mine as Andy did.. it will be full of oil

Re jacking, I used short timbers that went from my crumpled jacking points inboard to the bung area, the stands placed nearer to the bung though