Exhaust - DIY?

Cpt_Spalding · Unread post by **Cpt_Spalding** » 07 Feb 2008, 09:05

Woe is me.

My baby needs new rear spheres. Kwik-fit just diagnosed my exhaust mid section is sheared from the rear section & want £143.60 to replace both pieces.

On top of that the MOT comes up mid-March.

So... Looking back on the forum I notice a few people have done their own exhaust with little difficulty. If I go down the DIY route, do I need to weld anything (I can't)? If no welding, how are the pieces jointed?

I only do 6000 miles pa. If it's not entirely rusted is it worth doing a repair job on it with putty & bandages?

If not DIY, can anyone recommend a reasonable exhaust fitter in the Glasgow area?

The rear spheres. I'm a bit worried about replacing these myself. I've read elsewhere on the forum about the possibility of cracking the pipes coming into the spheres when undoing the old ones. I'm limited in the time I have to do the work in my ex-Mrs garage (my ex-garage

) & I'm kinda scared of working with (draining, bleeding etc) a hydraulic system.

Can anyone point me in the direction of a guide on this (or other) forum on how to do the spheres?

Gammy leg · Unread post by **Gammy leg** » 07 Feb 2008, 10:23

There is a guide to changing spheres in 'common fixes' section. It is relatively straightforward but you will need a suitable tool for removing your old spheres. A filter wrench, unfortunately, will probably not be sufficient. Additionally I would recommend spraying the joint daily for about a week with WD40 or similar to ease removal.

Does sound like your exhaust is beyond repair, so bandage option would be a temporary fix that would'nt necessarily get you through an MOT. There shouldn't be any welding involved as exhaust sections are connected with U clamps and suspended with rubber hangers.

Exhaust are manufactured to fit as a complete system rather than piece-meal which could lead to a partial replacement not quite fitting when married up to the remnants of the old system. You may find that it is an inch or two long or short. Always better to fit a complete system when possible.
There are some good suppliers on the net who undercut the likes of Kwik Fit by a mile - example, Synergie centre section with CAT £330 ex KWik Fit, Complete system incl all brackets, seals, bolts, rubbers for £175 off the net. I will post the link when I can find it.

http://www.buypartsby.co.uk/exhausts_make.php

Just done a quick check and reckon that a full system with CAT will cost you £87 + P&P. Not sure if this includes VAT though.

Gammy

citronut · Unread post by **citronut** » 07 Feb 2008, 23:30

if you de/cat it at the same time the main section between the down pipe and rear box is only around £36 squide from GSF,

and by golly dont she fly with no cat,

and before it will pass the MOT without the cat, as mine has had a MOT since de/catting
regards malcolm

Unread post by **elma** » 08 Feb 2008, 01:50

The rear spheres can be easy or terrible
Rusty cannon ball spheres are a pain.
To avoid split pipe disaster just make sure you lock the rear strut (or bit the sphere screws onto) in place before trying to turn the sphere.
Haven't done it for ages but I think I used a big spanner on the n/s and a small chisel on the o/s.
Otherwise just follow the guide, it's like changing a screw in light bulb.

W.r.t exhaust I can only comment on the back box.
The back box could be changed by a child
It is connected by a single exhaust clip thing ( u clip I believe from previous post). Easily undone with screwdriver/pliers if corroded.
It's mounted by 3 rubbers which slip off easily enough.
Only thing to watch for is face ache after you take the first 2 rubbers off.
Heavy exhaust falls fast.
Refit is even easier as once the rubbers are on it holds itself in place, backbox can be done on the floor in 15 mins.

Sorry, I've never touched any of the other pipes so can't be any help with them.

I would say though, look youreself. Kwik fit around my area have a bit of a reputation for fixing expensive problems they made up.

citronut · Unread post by **citronut** » 08 Feb 2008, 08:07

front pipe to manifold is attatched by two spring loaded bolts to allow it to move, rear box joint is a male and female flandge very easy,

i wouled say a one spanner job,

when refitting the front end to manifold make sure you use the wovan wire sealing ring,

the cheaper fibre one a lot of exhaust shops fit will last about two weeks if your lucky

regards malcolm

Cpt_Spalding · Unread post by **Cpt_Spalding** » 08 Feb 2008, 08:58

Thanks, all.

Got it up on stands & had a look underneath last night. (Got to get ramps before I tackle any of it, though.) Yep, I reckon I can do the exhaust. It does have a cat & I'll prob keep that on for the time being. (time & cost) Back box, yep, saw that with the rubbers. Prob best to buy new rubber bits too?

Mid section slips onto the front section, then U-clamped together. My only worry is freeing the old mid-section from the front once I have the clamp off. Is there likely to be some sort of sealant between the two pipes holding them?

With regard to the spheres, I suspect they may be ok. However I definitely have an LHM leak. There is a sphere between the two rear spheres. Is this the accum or the anti-sink? Either way, there is a valve(?) of some sort in front of this soaking with LHM. Given that both the accum & anti-sink were replaced recently at the garage, I'll be taking it back there for their view on that...

citronut · Unread post by **citronut** » 08 Feb 2008, 14:08

dose the mid section fit over the dfront section or inside of it, if out side the you can gently cut into the neck running along its length, then peele it away, mind not to cut to deep as to cut into the front section

regards malcolm

Unread post by **Peter.N.** » 10 Feb 2008, 16:11

The centre sphere is mainly responsible for the soft ride, so just changing that will probably make more difference than the outer ones. You will likely need a proper sphere removal tool although you can loosen it with a large hammer and chisel - if you can get to it.