Peugeot 207 Vti crank no start ongoing issue

[MikeT]

And here's a much more detailed variation of the amperage test. It's quite involved but does sound like the sort of definitive test required to say one way or another.
https://www.motor.com/magazine-summary/ ... -may-2016/

The 5V reference circuit that shorted to ground anywhere affects the operation of the circuit everywhere. This method will help you quickly home in on the short’s location

[darbuck]

Hi Lads sorry I havent been on fighting a kidney infection and doctor gave me an antibiotic that I am allergic to so you can imagine the fun that was, hospital and all that, but anyway, Max, I didn't realize your temp clock wasn't working did you check the temp readout sensor its a seperate sensor and may possibly be causing the fault also did you say that there was a coolant leak that ingressed the sensor because that would possibly blow the ecu, my car is irrelevant because it is a different make and model and trying to compare them is only going to cause more confusion. Also my car didn't have an engine swap so too many other variables. so my apologees

Another poster on a 206 no start Paul-R just post this which could explain your problem MAX "The radiator fan is the most likely culprit as they have a tendency to seize up over the winter months when they get zero use. Both my Xsara and Mk1 C5 had seized fans at various times and both blew their respective maxi-fuses." causing no start. have you checked your maxi fuses

[max1]

Hi Lads sorry I havent been on fighting a kidney infection and doctor gave me an antibiotic that I am allergic to so you can imagine the fun that was, hospital and all that, but anyway, Max, I didn't realize your temp clock wasn't working did you check the temp readout sensor its a seperate sensor and may possibly be causing the fault also did you say that there was a coolant leak that ingressed the sensor because that would possibly blow the ecu for my car is irrelevant because it is a different make and model and trying to compare them is only going to cause more confusion. Also my car didn't have an engine swap so too many other variables. so my apologees

Another poster on a 206 no start Paul-R just post this which could explain your problem MAX "The radiator fan is the most likely culprit as they have a tendency to seize up over the winter months when they get zero use. Both my Xsara and Mk1 C5 had seized fans at various times and both blew their respective maxi-fuses." causing no start. have you checked your maxi fuses

Hope you feel better soon. I just checked the maxi fuses & they are all good.

Am still interested in the 3.3v you found despite all the variables, it seems quite a coincidence ! Have you read any codes.. any other information you can give ?

[darbuck]

Only code on mine is a knock sensor fault at the moment Max I am out of ideas but if I think of anything I will let you know. What have you checked so far. as in what tests have you done.

[MikeT]

Wishing you a swift recovery Darren!

[darbuck]

thanks Mike on the mend now so not so bad. This car of Max's is a real conundrum. Does the car turn over and try to fire or just constantly crank.

[MikeT]

thanks Mike on the mend now so not so bad. This car of Max's is a real conundrum. Does the car turn over and try to fire or just constantly crank.

I popped over to max for another diag session the other day and although the battery was flat, we did attempt to see if the crank sensor was showing a signal while cranking. This is what it recorded with two short attempts.

We also heard it trying to catch though it's very likely the fuel-air ratio was way off anyway.

Just to add to the confusion, the diagnostic session threw us a curve-ball...
Prior to the cranking, max wanted to clear all the codes - as previously invoked a fair few by disconnecting the plugs during testing - then re-read what is logged after cranking.

Well, the initial code-reading was as expected, and eventually all could be cleared except two persistent BSI codes related to dipped headlight and foglamp, Then proceeded with the cranking test then set about reading the codes again.
Nothing! No faults found! Not even the two unclearable persistent BSI codes.

I can only surmise it was due to the battery being so weak but that's just a best guess.

[darbuck]

That graph looks like there is a problem with synch there is too much time lapsed between rotations detected it just doesn't look right to me, the that looks like the cam signal is being detected but the crank is not.
I think.
If you look at a video it will show what to look for as good, scanner danner probably explains it in this one.



Int3erestingly this is the exact symptoms of my car that is giving me trouble so I think I can rule out the ECU

As for the codes it is better to leave them sometimes because it allows the computer to compensate for them to allow a start condition,as for the bsi codes they could have cleared because of the draw on power from cranking essentially disabling the bsi temporarily. I hope this helps.

[MikeT]

I put the slow cranking down to a flat battery. I just wanted to see an RPM signal foremost.
Is a scope graph a useful comparison to Diagbox on a Windows Netbook?

Having said that, trying to start the engine given the ECT signal issue? I'm not sure that's a good use of the limited time max has.

[fishermanphill2008]

hi the 3.3v is very possibly the correct reading looking at age of car 5v processors went out year ago.
3 possible faults just a guess.no clock to processor. mbus (multiplex ic) faulty so giving false code and codes to other devices.ad fault (processor fault).
not much up on cars but -40c will means 0 at ad input its a common ad multiplexed to usually 10 or more inputs a surge current on any could blow ad.
the other codes open or short circuit just mean tester don’t know has no (readings?)
ad = analog to digital.
to trouble shoot ad (sensor inputs to processor)if you make say a 1.5v ref through a 1kohm resistor and put this at a sensor input then take a fresh fault test see if said sensor reading has change.

hope thats helped

phill

[fishermanphill2008]

sorry mist a bit the mbus some call it kbus anyway processor is called master it gives the clock out to all slaves on the clock line.
so another possible fualt is a slave holding clock line or data line low so no readings that -40c.this could be radio winter heater not sure petrol cars have them? any other slave divice.
so if you look at diagram sould show you data line and clock line to other slaves.
normal function usually isn't asign to slaves so disconnecting slaves just unpluging a plug may sort it.
just one point have you disconnected the battery so processor can clear brown out events? (low votage shut down)low battery.

phill

[fishermanphill2008]

hi again
did i read correct that you change engine or was that a different thread.
http://www.ecutesting.com/peugeot-207-ecu.html is this same engine?.
could you post the full diagram of the ecu as i can't see any ref voltages or 5v input on the bit posted.
from that web site it does look like ecu fault or immobilizer due to incorrect vin? the 3.3v could be to disable.
phill

[MikeT]

Hi Phil, I believe the owner may have sent off the ECU to be tested by now and are awaiting the result.

[max1]

ECU has come back from ECU testing today & has passed all tests, all 5v reference present & correct.

Stumped.

[max1]

hi again
did i read correct that you change engine or was that a different thread.
http://www.ecutesting.com/peugeot-207-ecu.html is this same engine?.
could you post the full diagram of the ecu as i can't see any ref voltages or 5v input on the bit posted.
from that web site it does look like ecu fault or immobilizer due to incorrect vin? the 3.3v could be to disable.
phill

Thanks for your input.

Yes engine was changed.

" immobilizer due to incorrect vin " - How would this happen, please could you elaborate ?