1.6 HDi Buying guide

[GiveMeABreak]

Can't really say for certain Mike - in 2011 the 16V DOHC was reduced to 8 Valve and only SOHC, called the DV-6C/DV-6D.

[Michel]

It seems that sellers always make a point of saying "1.6 8V" as though it's some kind of big selling point.

[richb8]

There are automatics and 6 speed piloted manuals - basically, the piloted systems have a normal clutch and gearbox, but these are operated by hydraulic actuators. This is what your car has. Some dealers (non-Citroen) don't always know the difference. I'll email the specs of the VIN you gave me so you can see for yourself. The 2.0 has a different engine and don't suffer the same types of problems AFAIK. The 2.0 are pretty robust engines - but regular servicing is key - and more frequent oil changes will certainly help keep the car in good condition.

Thanks a lot for this Marc it really is much appreciated, I will do some research into the 2.0, other than your check is there another way to see if it is piloted or full auto?

[GiveMeABreak]

I couldn't say for sure, but if you need confirmation just pm the reg or vin and I'll be able to tell you in a few mins if you ever see one that you want to know about

[RichardW]

The 8V engine is much better than the 16V version. If you search you will find there are no turbo failures on these (well except a DS3 that went at 7k!). My parents' one dropped an injector at about 50k, but that's the only one I've heard of.

If the car is a proper TC auto then it will have a P position on the gear selector; if it's EGS then it will not. My parents have just replaced their 2011 1.6 EGS with a new 1.6 auto - and this one is a TC auto rather than an EGS. 2.0 HDi was also available with EGS - my mate had one; replacement clutch killed it, and nearly bankrupt him!

[Andle]

Need guidance:

My vin: VF7**************[VIN obfuscated, can be read by forum staff]

Removing the banjo bolt on this particular car.

Would it still be 3 hours work (No DPF) - I'm asking so that I am asked for a fair price when I look for a indy to do it.

My genuine thanks to any willing to help.

[citroenxm]

If you mean the turbo oil feed pipe.. the front down pipe/cat still needs to come off but if theres no dpf pipes in the cat that should save a bit of time.. 3 hours should do it assuming all bolts and clamls and cat covers come off well.

[Andle]

Question: The car was first registered in 2007.

If the oil feed pipe is the original - has it been succeeded by a revised version?

Is there a new recommended oil feed pipe, that I should be having fitted instead?

[citroenxm]

I beleve so.. but ive not actually had any turbo issues with 1.6s only bought ones that have been done..

[Andle]

I beleve so.. but ive not actually had any turbo issues with 1.6s only bought ones that have been done..

I would really appreciate it - if anybody can help me with the revised pipes - part number.

I'm hoping to buy it from GSF or Euro if it's available there.

I'e heard rumours that there is a pipe out there with an elongated filter - yet people are still removing it - to protect the turbo.

I'm hoping that I can get some detailed information on this - as 3 hours labour will be quite a considerable cost - and I'm taking the advice of the community in getting this done.

[MikeT]

I would really appreciate it - if anybody can help me with the revised pipes - part number.

I'm hoping to buy it from GSF or Euro if it's available there.

I'e heard rumours that there is a pipe out there with an elongated filter - yet people are still removing it - to protect the turbo.

I'm hoping that I can get some detailed information on this - as 3 hours labour will be quite a considerable cost - and I'm taking the advice of the community in getting this done.

It's not so expensive using OEM parts.

Using your VIN gives me this parts diagram (banjo highlighted)

Selecting the part brings up a choice of original or revised part numbers

And at the checkout, their prices

And the modification document had to crop in two parts...

[Andle]

I would really appreciate it - if anybody can help me with the revised pipes - part number.

I'm hoping to buy it from GSF or Euro if it's available there.

I'e heard rumours that there is a pipe out there with an elongated filter - yet people are still removing it - to protect the turbo.

I'm hoping that I can get some detailed information on this - as 3 hours labour will be quite a considerable cost - and I'm taking the advice of the community in getting this done.

It's not so expensive using OEM parts.

Using your VIN gives me this parts diagram (banjo highlighted)
Banjo.JPG

Selecting the part brings up a choice of original or revised part numbers
BanjoChoicese.JPG

And at the checkout, their prices
BanjoPrices.JPG

Thanks Mike,

1. If I've understood correctly - it's just the union nuts that have been superseded?

This does not apply to the oil feed pipe or any other parts?


Key question:

2. Can I please ask the community -

If I'm going to have the banjo bolt removed (as advised on multiple threads) - is there anything else - (whilst this job is being done) - that I should have checked/changed/dealt with at the same time, whilst those parts are removed?

I'm thinking in terms of preventative maintenance.

VIN: VF7**************[VIN obfuscated, can be read by forum staff]

My sincere thanks to any willing to add to the discussion.

[MikeT]

Thanks Mike,

1. If I've understood correctly - it's just the union nuts that have been superseded?

This does not apply to the oil feed pipe or any other parts?


Key question:

2. Can I please ask the community -

If I'm going to have the banjo bolt removed (as advised on multiple threads) - is there anything else - (whilst this job is being done) - that I should have checked/changed/dealt with at the same time, whilst those parts are removed?

I'm thinking in terms of preventative maintenance.

VIN: VF7**************[VIN obfuscated, can be read by forum staff]

My sincere thanks to any willing to add to the discussion.

I've edited to add in my last post btw.

From what I've read, the advice to renew the oil pipe is based on repairs where it is supected as also being contaminated.

[Andle]

Thanks Mike,

1. If I've understood correctly - it's just the union nuts that have been superseded?

This does not apply to the oil feed pipe or any other parts?


Key question:

2. Can I please ask the community -

If I'm going to have the banjo bolt removed (as advised on multiple threads) - is there anything else - (whilst this job is being done) - that I should have checked/changed/dealt with at the same time, whilst those parts are removed?

I'm thinking in terms of preventative maintenance.

VIN: VF7**************[VIN obfuscated, can be read by forum staff]

My sincere thanks to any willing to add to the discussion.

I've edited to add in my last post btw.

From what I've read, the advice to renew the oil pipe is based on repairs where it is supected as also being contaminated.

Thanks Mike!

Just seen that now.

Top Bloke!

[RichardW]

The revised part is the banjo bolt, and it contains a larger plastic filter, rather then the tiny metal mesh of the original. I wouldn't bother with any parts, just remove the bolt, and dig the filter out. I replaced the turbo on our C4 at 70k, and removed the filter. Since then, it had low oil pressure twice due to blocked sump pick up, but the turbo is still OK at 110k - so removing the filter will protect the turbo. On a 90 BHP without DPF and the simpler turbo it should be possible to remove it without having to take the radiator out, which will cut down the time. I'd reckon 1.5 hours tops.