Dissolving/removing cooling system stop leak products.

[Sid_the_Squid]

Hi folks, weird question, but it is possible to dissolve or otherwise remove cooling system stop leak products, such as radweld or barrs stop leak?
I ask because my old man had a heater matrix leak in his Citroen Relay, apparently the matrix is hard to change, so he put some chepo stop leak product in, I think he may have done it wrong, or it’s a very cheap product he used (more than likely knowing him), as sadly its blocked his heater matrix, not such a big deal in this hot weather, but its going to be hard in the winter.
So does anyone know how it might be possible to remove this blockage, without changing the matrix, if we manage to get the coolant flowing again, then we can patch the leak ‘properly’ with some Forte stop leak, or some K-Seal.
I realise patching the cooling system like this is scarcely a proper fix, but the van is on its last legs so understandably he doesn’t want to sink any money in to it.

Thanks all

[myglaren]

If you can attach hoses to the heater matrix connections then you could reverse flush it untill it runs freely, otherwise alchemy may be your only recourse.

If the matrix is failing, anything you do may well finish it off.

In your shoes I'd be tempted to bypass it altogether.
Winter will be no fun though.

[dieseldoggy]

Hi not sure if that gear from holts is anygood the two part one? ive used soda chrystals before to clean one out! but what you could do to bypass it if the matrix is U/S completly. is to by pass by exteneding the pipes and use another matrix inside car under passenger side you can get a mini type unit from scrappy which as fan inside also to get by if on it's last legs? atleast you will have heat and your fan for windscreen demist!

[CitroJim]

In my experience Sid, getting rid of cooling systems additives is akin to cancelling a Readers Digest subscription. Nearly impossible

My V6 had been treated with K-Seal and something else (suspected to be a cheapie) that left a cement-like deposit and blocked the transmission cooler.

Despite a new rad, cooler and an extensive flush of the block, hoses and header tank, I can still see traces of K-Seal in the header tank

I can also still see traces of K-Seal on the bottom of my kitchen sink where I did the flushing of the smaller components..

That said, a good flush of the rad, block and hoses after removal will go a long, long way to getting rid of the majority but that heater matrix is now toast. They're nigh-on impossible to flush as the inlet and outlet is next to each other (like the V6 rad) so flushing water will just short-circuit.

Shame he did not use Forte from the outset. That would have stemmed the flow. It kept my 2.1TD matrix soldiering on for months.

[citronut]

Jim wrote
"I can also still see traces of K-Seal on the bottom of my kitchen sink where I did the flushing of the smaller components.. "


Jim
you no your not ment to use the kitchen sink for this sort of opperation,

you are ment to use the bath TEA HE,

Sid
your dad or previous owners have probably put several applications of coolant seal into the system

one of my BX's a previous owner had put several apps of doggy pellets into the system,

then the first winter on turnning on the heater no hot air at all,
i dismantled the heater valve gear, which on a BX is like two plastic slews gates, these were in the closed position and behind them was like two solid OXO cubes,

i cleared them and re/fitted got heat all that winter, this happened for the following two winters,

after that it was fine

regards malcolm







regards malcolm

[Paul-R]

ive used soda chrystals before to clean one out!

That used to be OK with cast iron engines and copper heater matrices but now that aluminium is used extensively you MUSTN'T use washing soda.

Soda is alkaline and it attacks aluminium and dissolves it - the last thing you want with a dicky matrix!!