C5 X7 ambient lighting (and some other bits and pieces)

[vborovic]

Found a "cheaper" solution to my problem ...

[Hell Razor5543]

Interesting, but I think you would want your lovely car to remain intact, and not slide sideways under the load. Good luck anyway in how you resolve the issue.

[jgra1]

grr bobins I lost one of my security bolts after my rebuild I brought a normal bolt last week to fit..

Vb, what a pain.. I once banged an old 18mm sockect on (19mm wheelnuts), and was lucky.. if you have a decent quality 16mm to sacrifice, you probably will win...
tough call..

[vborovic]

What about something like this?



I've read some reviews for the Emergency Wheel Nut Remover as Sticky suggested, and there are mixed results ... but that seems the cheapest solution so far, even if I'd have to buy two sets just in case ... In the mean time, the "new" tyres are waiting (don't mind the saw on top, just for decoration purposes in this case ... ) ... for the tyres, I've chosen used Michelin Pilot Alpin 3, size is 245/40/19 98V ... hopefully they'll last me 2 seasons, since the summer tyres should come on the car in 3 months at most ...

Regarding the security bolt adapter (key), here's how mine looks like ... not that damaged, but obviously, enough ...

I've read on the net that it should be possible to order just the key (general discussion, not related to any specific car brand), but you have to have the VIN available (duh ...) and the wheel key code (alphanumerical combination, sticked as a bar code on the plastic bag that usually contains the adapter (key) ... will see how that goes ... if not, one mechanical solution would be to use the reverse drill, and reverse screw, which should give the same result like the Emergency Wheel Nut Remover ... in the worst case, some welding will be required ...

[bobins]

Regarding the security bolt adapter (key), here's how mine looks like ... not that damaged, but obviously, enough ...

Afraid that pattern is nothing like my spare one

[bobins]

I've read some reviews for the Emergency Wheel Nut Remover as Sticky suggested, and there are mixed results ... but that seems the cheapest solution so far, even if I'd have to buy two sets just in case

... if not, one mechanical solution would be to use the reverse drill, and reverse screw, which should give the same result like the Emergency Wheel Nut Remover ... in the worst case, some welding will be required ...

You may need to be a little creative if you go down the brute force or welding route as the security bolts have a weak point built in......

[daviemck2006]

On one of my Citroens with that type of key there was a number stamped on the key and when I knackered it like that it was simple, go to pug dealer/approved citroen repairer, give him old key, they ordered another which was posted direct to the house. The end of these bolts break off if subjected to anything other than the proper key, and the centre of them are hardened to stop you drilling them. This I know from experience when I knackered the new replacement key. Now I get these lockers off and bin them and put on normal nuts. The most akward of mine, I slackened the other 3 wheel nuts and drove round a deserted car park until it broke. Not exactly a recommended method of removal [emoji48] [emoji4]

[vborovic]

On one of my Citroens with that type of key there was a number stamped on the key and when I knackered it like that it was simple, go to pug dealer/approved citroen repairer, give him old key, they ordered another which was posted direct to the house.

How much?

[daviemck2006]

I can't remember, but don't think it was extortionate.

[vborovic]

The security wheel bolt adapter (key) price (yes, it is possible to order it by VIN and that extra code) is roughly 50 GBP ... the required work hours to drill them out (in the dealers), if there won't be any other way will require a few hours, which would cost more or less the same as the adapter (key) ... I was thinking, would the road assistance crews have any specialized tools for "quick" removal of such security bolts? Maybe something that is like 3-4 minutes per bolt? And with the matching service price (hopefully cheaper than what I currently have for the available options)?

[GiveMeABreak]

Well, as I go through at least 2 sets of front tyres a year, I guess I'll never have the locking wheelnut issue!

[vborovic]

If you're keen to replace the PITA security bolts with new ones, I think I've still got a spare set of 4 bolts and a 'key' you can have as I took mine off and replaced them with standard ones. If you're really desperate, I can take a detailed picture of my key in the hope that it might be the same as yours - but I'm guessing the chances of them being the same are slim to none.

Let me know the price for which you'd be willing to release the bolts + key from your possession? I've tried searching for used/new ones (set + key) on ebay, pretty rare actually ... and the price is some 20 GBP cheapest with delivery (never mounted on the wheels).

I still haven't removed my old wheels, cold and I'm out of ideas what to try first. Will see over the weekend, maybe I'll try to force the key to the bolts, to at least get one off, if possible ... saving time on potential extensive manual labor on the rest of them

[bobins]

PM sent.

[vborovic]

While I wait to see who'll take on the security bolts removal, I have time to contemplate some other issues ... the before mentioned license plate's lights not working, that one is really pissing me off ... here's how it works:

- if I turn the lights on the car with the remote, all the front & rear lights light up, including the license plate ones
AUTO LIGHT
- if I start the car, and there is a need for the dipped beam to be on (if it is dark), the license plate's lights won't turn on (at that point, if I turn the lights stalk to 0, and then return it to auto, the license plate's lights will light up)
- if I start the car, and DRLs are on (day), and when the automatic does its work of turning on the dipped beam (i.e. entering the tunnel), the license plate's lights will light up
MANUAL LIGHT (stalk set to dipped beam)
- if I start the car, the license plate's lights will turn on, every time

Conclusion, something happened with the Auto function, that it won't trigger the license plate's lights (although it does give the error with DiagBox that there is a short circuit on the mass if they're off when they should be on). Checked the boot connectors just in case, nothing wrong with them. Can't remember there is any setting in the BSI that would change the behavior of the license plate's lights.

[Chris_H4922]

I have just sat here for just over an hour (much to my wifes annoyance) reading this whole thread with the interest of interior lighting and found many subject which I need to address. I have experience in your trouble with the locking bolt. I had a head snap off one of mine. The key posted above works by screwing on to the existing bolt to the left. this forcing the locking nut to unscrew from the hub. The way I managed to get mine off with my local garage was with a maliable socket. A soft metal socket hit onto the locking nut then a drill attached to undo. This cost me nothing more than a pack of 4 fosters and a pack of crisps. Hope this helps.