Help!
Went to service the xantia today (1996)and found that i couldn't open the bonnet. Pulled the release lever and no joy, it just pulled back to the stop! As i cannot get into the bonnet to see if the loaks are jammed i CAN'T solve the problem. Had the release lever off, and still wouldn't work. Any ideas for getting it open?
thanks
Xantia bonnet won't open
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Stuart McB
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Richard Gallagher
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Be careful of pushing down on the Xantia bonnet as you will almost certainly dent it.
The first thing to do is to remove the bonnet release lever and try to pull on the inner cable, to release the bonnet. If no luck there, get the suspension on high or best of all jack it up, remove the undertray and try to gain access to the mechanism from below, bearing in mind that there are two locks.
Not a pleasant job overall, and one that lacks a simple solution.
The first thing to do is to remove the bonnet release lever and try to pull on the inner cable, to release the bonnet. If no luck there, get the suspension on high or best of all jack it up, remove the undertray and try to gain access to the mechanism from below, bearing in mind that there are two locks.
Not a pleasant job overall, and one that lacks a simple solution.
Thanks,
I tried both of these. When i took the lever off and pulled like crazy nothing really happed the inner cable gets as far as it would when it should normally release and won't go any further (brut force levelled off prior to breaking something!)
Does anyone know if you can get to the bonnet locks with the under tray off?
The thought i have had is maybe one of the lock to bulkhead cables has snapped? If its the bulkhead to lever one then i'm knackered as the whole facia must come out according to the Haynes manual, is there an easier way?
Many thanks, Mark
I tried both of these. When i took the lever off and pulled like crazy nothing really happed the inner cable gets as far as it would when it should normally release and won't go any further (brut force levelled off prior to breaking something!)
Does anyone know if you can get to the bonnet locks with the under tray off?
The thought i have had is maybe one of the lock to bulkhead cables has snapped? If its the bulkhead to lever one then i'm knackered as the whole facia must come out according to the Haynes manual, is there an easier way?
Many thanks, Mark
If the cable has busted near the front of the car, I think that it will be a gruesome thing to address. I had some false alarms with the bonnet release in my DS, and now I take particular care to make sure the catches and cables on my Xantia are kept well lubricated, and check for fraying of the cable whenever I have the covering panel removed.
I have looked for a way in, and attacking through the front with an angle grinder may be your best option.
I have looked for a way in, and attacking through the front with an angle grinder may be your best option.
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OnlineRichardW
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Sadly you can't take the dash out without opening the bonnet first, as there are some fixing screws in the engine bay you need to get out[:(] If it's not raining, and my wife hasn't taken it out, I'll have a look at mine when I get home and see if I can figure something out. Might be worth a call to your local Citroen dealer, as they may be able to give some advice (other than bring it in with a blank cheque.....[:o)])
Mark,
I can't help you with this issue on a Xantia - per se - but I did have a very similar problem with my Laguna a couple of years ago. The Laguna has two bonnet catches, one poster mentioned that the Xantia likewise has two.
On the Laguna one of the catches had broken, just where the (release handle) cable nipple connected. There is also a cable joining the 2 catches.
I faffed about trying to pull the cable from inside the cabin, but had to give up on this in the end as it clearly wasn't helping.
The first thing to do is to get a <b>VERY </b>good look at another, ideally identical (apart from the non-opening bonnet, that is!) Xantia. By identical I mean same engine, same A/C, power steering and so on.
You will then be able to work out if it's possible to access the catches from underneath, and if so, what type of tools you'll need, where you need to lever/push/pull or whatever and so on.
Actually, I'm sure it <i><b>will</b></i> be possible to access them from underneath, (I'd hazard a guess that this is what the Citroën dealer would do if you took it in), it's just that it might take a fair amount of thought and effort.
It may well be necessary to detach one or two components in order to gain access to the catches - I had to remove something (headlight rear cover, I think) on one side of the Laguna. Again a good look at the "Identical Vehicle" will help you with this, as it's usually a lot easier to work this sort of thing out with unhindered access.
Note that it may well be very difficult, even when you've done the above, to gain (good enough) access to the catches. I managed it - just - but on looking at my Neighbour's 2.2 Diesel Laguna I don't think I could have done it - something was <b><i>right</i></b> in the way.
The only thing I could have done if I'd had the 2.2 Diesel was to make up some sort of special tool - which, IIRC, didn't seem like it would have been too difficult. This would again have been used from more or less directly underneath each catch. Note that, depending on what is broken, releasing one catch <i>might </i>release the other one anyway (although it will be a good deal harder to release in the first place).
In fact you might want to think about which catch you do first, anyway, after looking at the way the cables are laid out, as I found it was pretty hard to release them even individually.
After all this, it's front end up on Axle Stands (ideally), or Ramps, then remove the undertray. Once you've finally gained access to each catch, get someone to push down on the bonnet in the appropriate place, just as you attempt to release it.
I can't remember exactly what I used on the Laguna - a screwdriver of some sort, probably. I do remember it being a real struggle, though!
And once I'd finished I fitted 2 new catches, although one was OK it looked like they had done a slight redesign and the part that had broken was a bit more substantial.
I hope this is of some use, do please let us know how you get on!
Jim.
I can't help you with this issue on a Xantia - per se - but I did have a very similar problem with my Laguna a couple of years ago. The Laguna has two bonnet catches, one poster mentioned that the Xantia likewise has two.
On the Laguna one of the catches had broken, just where the (release handle) cable nipple connected. There is also a cable joining the 2 catches.
I faffed about trying to pull the cable from inside the cabin, but had to give up on this in the end as it clearly wasn't helping.
The first thing to do is to get a <b>VERY </b>good look at another, ideally identical (apart from the non-opening bonnet, that is!) Xantia. By identical I mean same engine, same A/C, power steering and so on.
You will then be able to work out if it's possible to access the catches from underneath, and if so, what type of tools you'll need, where you need to lever/push/pull or whatever and so on.
Actually, I'm sure it <i><b>will</b></i> be possible to access them from underneath, (I'd hazard a guess that this is what the Citroën dealer would do if you took it in), it's just that it might take a fair amount of thought and effort.
It may well be necessary to detach one or two components in order to gain access to the catches - I had to remove something (headlight rear cover, I think) on one side of the Laguna. Again a good look at the "Identical Vehicle" will help you with this, as it's usually a lot easier to work this sort of thing out with unhindered access.
Note that it may well be very difficult, even when you've done the above, to gain (good enough) access to the catches. I managed it - just - but on looking at my Neighbour's 2.2 Diesel Laguna I don't think I could have done it - something was <b><i>right</i></b> in the way.
The only thing I could have done if I'd had the 2.2 Diesel was to make up some sort of special tool - which, IIRC, didn't seem like it would have been too difficult. This would again have been used from more or less directly underneath each catch. Note that, depending on what is broken, releasing one catch <i>might </i>release the other one anyway (although it will be a good deal harder to release in the first place).
In fact you might want to think about which catch you do first, anyway, after looking at the way the cables are laid out, as I found it was pretty hard to release them even individually.
After all this, it's front end up on Axle Stands (ideally), or Ramps, then remove the undertray. Once you've finally gained access to each catch, get someone to push down on the bonnet in the appropriate place, just as you attempt to release it.
I can't remember exactly what I used on the Laguna - a screwdriver of some sort, probably. I do remember it being a real struggle, though!
And once I'd finished I fitted 2 new catches, although one was OK it looked like they had done a slight redesign and the part that had broken was a bit more substantial.
I hope this is of some use, do please let us know how you get on!
Jim.
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Richard Gallagher
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Mark, I've just taken a good look at my Xantia and I don't envy you!
What I did discover is that the cable runs across the engine bay and runs forward alongside the N/S/F wing and passes just behind the N/S headlight where there is a joint which consists of a 'S' bend which attaches to a hole in a flat piece of metal. Should the cable loosen then this WILL fall apart.... Trying to get to this joint from underneath will be difficult if your car is a turbo diesel as the intercooler pipe runs in your line of sight, other versions it may be possible.
The other way will involve removing the front grille, this will involve pulling it out from below the headlights, removing the two Torx headed screws inside the grille opening, then possibly levering it upwards against the two clips which can only be accessed with the bonnet open. This may well ruin the grille but if yours is a popular colour then get a replacement from the scrappies. Its looks likely that this will allow access.
Other than these two suggestions then I can't offer you any more I'm afraid.
What I have learned is to wrap the conection behind the N/S headlight in tape so that I don't suffer a similar fate to you!!
What I did discover is that the cable runs across the engine bay and runs forward alongside the N/S/F wing and passes just behind the N/S headlight where there is a joint which consists of a 'S' bend which attaches to a hole in a flat piece of metal. Should the cable loosen then this WILL fall apart.... Trying to get to this joint from underneath will be difficult if your car is a turbo diesel as the intercooler pipe runs in your line of sight, other versions it may be possible.
The other way will involve removing the front grille, this will involve pulling it out from below the headlights, removing the two Torx headed screws inside the grille opening, then possibly levering it upwards against the two clips which can only be accessed with the bonnet open. This may well ruin the grille but if yours is a popular colour then get a replacement from the scrappies. Its looks likely that this will allow access.
Other than these two suggestions then I can't offer you any more I'm afraid.
What I have learned is to wrap the conection behind the N/S headlight in tape so that I don't suffer a similar fate to you!!
Thanks for the help,
I will try and have alook at the weekend, probably starting with the grill solution Can you see the catches when the grill is out? Also as i may not be able to find another car to look at easily i'll also ask, is it just the two catches at the top of the grill? and are they torx screw lugs or just location hooks?
I'll leave the 'from the bottom' solution for now as it is indeed a turbo diesel, D'ohh.
Many thanks, i'll keep you posted on progress[|)]
I will try and have alook at the weekend, probably starting with the grill solution Can you see the catches when the grill is out? Also as i may not be able to find another car to look at easily i'll also ask, is it just the two catches at the top of the grill? and are they torx screw lugs or just location hooks?
I'll leave the 'from the bottom' solution for now as it is indeed a turbo diesel, D'ohh.
Many thanks, i'll keep you posted on progress[|)]
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OnlineRichardW
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I agree with Richard G's comments. The catches are on the front of the slam panel, so there is no way you will get them from underneath - the only way in is going to be through the grill. Unfortunately this extends under the head lights either side and is secured with a screw behind the indicators - which must be removed (bonnet open!) before the screws can be removed. Haynes indicates there are 2 screws accessed through the grills at the lower outside corners - get these out, then see if you can lever out the two top clips under the front endge of the bonnet - I doubt it though! After this you will need to cut the grill the get the central part out, when you should be able to access the catches over the top of the fan cowling. Trip to the local scrappers then required to acquire a new grill!
If the main cable has broken then I wouldn't bother trying to fit a new one - I'd try and fit up a device to open it through the grill. Easier than taking the dash out....[V]
If the main cable has broken then I wouldn't bother trying to fit a new one - I'd try and fit up a device to open it through the grill. Easier than taking the dash out....[V]
I have been servicing the XANT (td) this afternoon and pondering your predicament.
You will need a good torch as its very dark under there, Working around the N/S head light try undoing as many intercooler bits as you can, just above the headlight is a bonnet cable link thing, you will probably only be able to feel it give this a big yank, or use a bent bit of wire to grasp about. It won't be easy though.
You will need a good torch as its very dark under there, Working around the N/S head light try undoing as many intercooler bits as you can, just above the headlight is a bonnet cable link thing, you will probably only be able to feel it give this a big yank, or use a bent bit of wire to grasp about. It won't be easy though.
Morning,
Done! sequence went like this
1) Grab a cup of coffee (it was just after work[:D])
2) Remove two screws within the grill
3) ponder how to get at the screws under the indicators (or break the grill and still be able to repair). In the end the screws ARE accessable you just need to lever the grill down abit
4) Use a chisel and 'shear off' the plastic pins holding the top of the grill (lucky as these can be metel) to the slam panel. Yes i agree it is dark under the grill but i managed to get access under the slam panel between the panel and the grill mounting lug
5) Now, grill was loose but would come out. The grill actually has a section behind a raised section of the slam panel so simply pulling the grill out straight is not possible. After a bit of wiggling it did come out, but i did slightly crack one section of the grill (easily repairable and won't show). On inspection the same chisel from earlier should have been used to 'cut' the grill either side of the raised section to allow straight removal, this modification to the grill wouldn't show either.
So, in the end 20 minutes and the grill was off, further 10 seconds and the bonnet was open[:)]
It turned out that the cable from the locks to the intersection behind the headlight had popped out of the joiner plate thus the release lever couldn't pull the lock. Now put back into place, with lots of lubricant and tape around the joiner plate.
20 mins later, oil / filter / liquids service complete.
So, in summation, the grill does proove to be the best way in (unless its a post 1998 model where the grill is part of the bonnet?).
Thanks for the help, hope this saves anyone else a headache![8D]
Done! sequence went like this
1) Grab a cup of coffee (it was just after work[:D])
2) Remove two screws within the grill
3) ponder how to get at the screws under the indicators (or break the grill and still be able to repair). In the end the screws ARE accessable you just need to lever the grill down abit
4) Use a chisel and 'shear off' the plastic pins holding the top of the grill (lucky as these can be metel) to the slam panel. Yes i agree it is dark under the grill but i managed to get access under the slam panel between the panel and the grill mounting lug
5) Now, grill was loose but would come out. The grill actually has a section behind a raised section of the slam panel so simply pulling the grill out straight is not possible. After a bit of wiggling it did come out, but i did slightly crack one section of the grill (easily repairable and won't show). On inspection the same chisel from earlier should have been used to 'cut' the grill either side of the raised section to allow straight removal, this modification to the grill wouldn't show either.
So, in the end 20 minutes and the grill was off, further 10 seconds and the bonnet was open[:)]
It turned out that the cable from the locks to the intersection behind the headlight had popped out of the joiner plate thus the release lever couldn't pull the lock. Now put back into place, with lots of lubricant and tape around the joiner plate.
20 mins later, oil / filter / liquids service complete.
So, in summation, the grill does proove to be the best way in (unless its a post 1998 model where the grill is part of the bonnet?).
Thanks for the help, hope this saves anyone else a headache![8D]