C5 x7 handbrake actuator

[Jim66a]

Hi, My handbrake!! One of the cables became detached from a caliper and on taking up the slack, my actuator has become stuck tight.
Hopefully it should be a case of giving it a hand as the motor doesn't have the torque to do it.

Does the brass outer spin like a nut to wind the cable in and out?

[GiveMeABreak]

I'm assuming you did not use Diagbox to release and disengage the electric handbrake before you did any maintenance? This is what can happen. You need to get the diagnostic tool on it and put it into maintenance mode (which you normally do when changing brake calipers and brake pads for example), then disconnect the battery negative so they do not accidentally re-engage if the ignition is switched on / off. That should slacken the cables again to maximum and disengage them. Re-connect them and then when complete, reconnect the battery negative and use the diagnostic to apply the handbrake calibration, then re-apply the handbrake, holding the switch up for a few seconds until it has re-engaged and initialised itself.

[Jim66a]

What had happened is the arm on the caliper had deformed allowing the nipple to pull out! I was surprised how easy it was to bend back into shape.
I'm thinking that it's wound itself so tight it can't undo itself. I'm getting a 'parking brake jammed' fault when I try and put it in maintenance position and you hear the motor clicking.
The motor and gears are good, you can spin it around the 'nut' using the flywheel on the back of it. I just need to know how the cable pulls through the nut side so I don't break it trying to loosen it.

[GiveMeABreak]

I put us some diagrams in this thread that may be of help - you'll need to flick through the posts though:

viewtopic.php?t=61374

[Jim66a]

Showing tensioning screw

Ok.. sorted it. It had wound itself tight (cable adjusted right in on the passenger side) unclipped the cable from the caliper, slid the tensioning mechanism to the left, until I could pop the motor out and grab the square nut with my grips then spun the brass slider nut with a set of 6" adjustables. Put the motor and slider back in place, clipped the cable back into the caliper. Then wound the nut until the it all clipped back togeather. Replaced the cover to stop the motor spinning out and carried out a re-tension followed by calibration. Cleared all the faults using Diagbox and the dogs a spotty one with a waggy tail
I need to make a new cover as I had to break it to get it off. It does have some motor/gearbox positioning lugs so it won't be a 10 min job and another important note it the tensioner is a LEFT HAND thread.

[GiveMeABreak]

Well done there, you just need a whopping band aid to tie that lot back!