405: Major Works

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Michel
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Re: 405: Major Works

Post by Michel » 04 Jan 2020, 21:57

Gibbo2286 wrote:
04 Jan 2020, 21:24
I've been weighing up the possibility of buying a Nissan Note, the 1.5 dci diesel is an option I'd go for but they mostly have huge mileages, a four year old one with 199 thousand and many with over 150k so I'd guess that they must be pretty reliable.
My wife's mate has a 2013 one with 150k on it. It's *never* broken down, ever. All they do is service it and MOT it once a year, and put tyres, brakes and change the timing belt.

I'm told it's never even blown a bulb!

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Re: 405: Major Works

Post by Pug_XUD_KeenAmateur » 05 Jan 2020, 16:23

Thanks Gibbo and Michel, definitely worth seeing then, the owner was unavailable today but we're hoping to see it within the next couple of days. This one's a black 2008 (IIRC) car with about 150k on it, so 'similar' to those you each mention

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Re: 405: Major Works

Post by Pug_XUD_KeenAmateur » 06 Jan 2020, 15:14

Quick Aside...

would anyone have any idea why the Sound from my Stereo has failed in my 405?

It started off as the sound would die temporarily but switching off the Ignition would cure it....

....then it became that switching off the Ignition for a number of hours, eg overnight would cure it, but I'd only get about 10mins of sound before it recurred

...and now its gone altogether.

Its not the Stereo, I've tried all three of mine (all working) and the symptoms are the same. The car doesn't have an ECU.

What happens to the wires when they leave the multi-connector behind the Stereo? Do they go straight to the Speakers, or is there a Relay, or.....

Its a six speaker system, one in each door and a pair on the Parcel Shelf which Tee into the feeds from the rear doors (not ideal, but adequate). The system's not been touched other than a pair of new Front Door Speakers about a year ago.

doctle
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Re: 405: Major Works

Post by doctle » 06 Jan 2020, 18:04

Ignition switch maybe?

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Re: 405: Major Works

Post by Pug_XUD_KeenAmateur » 06 Jan 2020, 20:47

possibly Doctle....

...but I know nearly as much about Brain Surgery as I do about Electrics.

Its surprising that its just the Speakers, the Stereo units themselves work just fine
(if you can call a Stereo that does everything but emit sound "fine", lol)

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Re: 405: Major Works

Post by ekjdm14 » 06 Jan 2020, 20:49

I would've thought ignition switch myself but if the stereo's lighting up then I doubt it. The symptoms you described are rather synonymous with capacitor failure or dry joints in the head unit but if you've tried 3 known good ones then it's back to the wiring between stereo/speakers, particularly the connectors in case the pins are a loose fit. Don't suppose there's a separate amplifier is there?

Have you tried tape/CD or just radio by the way? Just wondering if it could be an aerial issue (especially if it's an amplified one)

If you do come around to suspecting the head unit itself I'd be willing to take a look at diagnosing it further/repairing as I'm not particularly skilled but fairly well equipped for electronics work.

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Re: 405: Major Works

Post by Pug_XUD_KeenAmateur » 06 Jan 2020, 20:54

further small question that somebody's probably got an answer to....

Roughly how much metal should I allow for 'loss in the curvature of a a corner', when transferring a paper template to steel?

Obviously I'm gonna get a sharper corner with a piece of paper than I will with a bit of 0.9mm Sheet Steel, think that's 21 Gauge

My first template for the Header tank is a mile out, so I've started again as pictured, and I'm keen not to do it a third time...

...I'm thinking that if I allow an extra 3mm to 5mm (1/8" to not quite a 1/4") for each bend that'll be about right?

Or maybe someone's got a suggestion how to work this out?
20200106_150422.jpg

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van ordinaire
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Re: 405: Major Works

Post by van ordinaire » 06 Jan 2020, 21:32

ekjdm14 wrote:
02 Jan 2020, 17:52
Argh, just lost the reply I'd mostly typed out earlier and finished now!
Ah, so it's not just me :wink:

I'll get on with reading through the rest of your post - those following, now.

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van ordinaire
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Re: 405: Major Works

Post by van ordinaire » 06 Jan 2020, 22:06

If I was putting a repaired write-off back on the road, I'd MoT it & see what happened when I tried to tax &/or register it.

Bit paranoid about multi-car policies, something to do with letting one company know too much. All of mine are with different companies, each having their own advantages for the particular vehicle.

Nissans do have that reputation, not any specific model - & "Note" is such a ridiculous, stupid name (though perhaps not by Japanese standards) for that reason alone I couldn't entertain one.

Radios have 2 power leads (+ some light up with the panel lights) - so I'd suspect the ignition supply, probably before the multi-plug.

Excuse me now while I bury myself in self-pity - because 2 threads which should be inspirational (& once upon a time, I'm sure would've been) now just make me feel inadequate. Not sure if I'm actually a masochist or just a glutton for punishment (or is that simply a matter of degree?) but I've no intention of hiving up reading these threads.

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Re: 405: Major Works

Post by Pug_XUD_KeenAmateur » 09 Jan 2020, 19:33

Thanks everyone, no, no separate Amp or Amplified Aerial ekjdm, all standard

and Van; go have a review of some photos relating to whatever you've been doing, remind yourself that you're good at all sorts o' stuff.

Another small update

Sound is restored to the Radio, I've put Fuse 14 back in. Removing it cured my Parasitic Battery Drain back in October 2018. It was a no-brainer at the time coz it deals with the Theft Alarm' and Electric Seats.... well the first I don't use coz the car's never had a 'Plip' key that works and the second my car hasn't got electric seats anyway, so I thought I'd not miss the Fuse.

....or maybe I was wrong, coz since removing it back in Oct 2018

sound with regard to the Radio, as described; had gradually got worse

as had the locking system's 'party piece'
...this involved the Central Locking activating the moment you pull the NSF Door Release (which I'm sure has no electrical connection), thereby preventing access / egress.


So, Fuse 14 is back in place, but that means my Parasitic Drain is back too, so I can listen to the Radio, but I have to disconnect the Battery when the car's stood.

My Thread "Compression: Turnover" related to this, but its a bit all over the place [that's not like me, lol] and I don't appear to have noted the eventual resolution there, so I wouldn't bother finding it if I were you. For that reason I've not included a link. I'm sure I did say what'd happened somewhere here but not on the relevant Thread!

The below pics were taken back in Oct 2018
Battery Parasitic Drain 5 Fuses.jpg
Battery Parasitic Drain 8 Fuses.jpg
Anyone got any idea:-
1: why disconnecting this Fuse affected my Speakers? (only the Speakers, the Radio Unit itself worked as normal, just without sound)
2: why the issues resulting from removal of this fuse took over a year to 'kick in' properly, probably not 10,000miles this past year, but certainly 5k+
3: how to fix my parasitic Drain. I know its on the Fuse 14 Circuit....

...maybe next thing to do will be to pull the plug on the little box o' tricks inside the Drivers Door; there's a PCB inside, its purpose is something to do with the Central Locking I think; but that's all I know

and while you're at it...
What's a 'Shunt' Fuse? (Fuse 8), what's that mean? Don't talk to me about Shunts, lol! Can't find Daughter a car, nothing out there fitting the description, with a documented Cam Belt change. Favour a 206SW or Ford Fusion, preferably with the 1.4HDi; anyone got one?

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Re: 405: Major Works

Post by ekjdm14 » 10 Jan 2020, 10:56

WRT #2, that's a very strange symptom there. And where strange electrical symptoms are, I've generally found bad earths are there as well. If it was mine I'd be checking all the earth connections in the engine bay, under the front carpets and also the +ve connections to/from the back of the fuse box.

Almost definitely something amiss with the wiring on a car this simple and non-multiplexed. Maybe it's just jealous of the weird faults BSI's and COM2k's can cause so thought it'd have a go at copying them!

#3, I'd study the wiring diagram for that circuit and begin disconnecting parts of it one at a time until the amperage drops. If everything ends up unhooked and the draw is still there, it's more likely either in the fusebox itself or damaged loom somewhere which is a pain but at least physical damage would be easier to see. To be honest, I'd probably start to address the whole thing by having a good look at the arse end of the fusebox itself to check for corrosion/damage there as it seems to be affecting multiple unrelated circuits.

We do have a 1.4HDi 206 going cheap, but I very much doubt it'd be suitable in the state its in! Scrap man hopefully coming to remove the husk over the weekend.

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Re: 405: Major Works

Post by white exec » 10 Jan 2020, 11:51

The 'shunt fuse' is included in many PSA fuseboxes as a means of dealers/factory being able to easily disconnect from the system all those items which would be a constant residual drain on the battery - eg radio, alarm... - when the car was "laid up" in storage/delivery, prior to sale and regular use. Such storage can run into months (years in some cases!), and so avoids batteries going rapidly flat.

Even with the shunt removed (or in its 'storage' position), the car should be able to start and drive. For regular 'customer' use, the shunt fuse is usually transferred into a second position, where the residual bits are enabled.

See Owner's Handbook for details.

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Re: 405: Major Works

Post by Pug_XUD_KeenAmateur » 12 Jan 2020, 22:37

ekjdm14 wrote:
10 Jan 2020, 10:56
…where strange electrical symptoms are, I've generally found bad earths are there as well.

Almost definitely something amiss with the wiring on a car this simple and non-multiplexed. Maybe it's just jealous of the weird faults BSI's and COM2k's can cause so thought it'd have a go at copying them
Thanks for that ekjdm, I so ‘know’ that you’ve hit the nail on the head there. I’ve not had a chance to have a look at it yet, but it simply stands to reason that you’re right…

…also thanks for the chuckle, that quote about BSI and COM2 faults was fabulous, its prompted a wry smile a number of times as I recalled it; not that I really understand such modern maladies...

I’ve not investigated as yet, seeing as I’ve been wasting hours scanning the Classifieds, adapting ‘Buying Checklists’ and then spending periods of time sometimes measured in seconds rather than minutes viewing cars with very brown coloured Coolant Header Tanks; ooh-err!

...I did however get daughter to drive a 407 SW with such a malady, just coz I wanted to build her confidence, having got in it myself from the 405, I found myself thinking 'strewth this is big'; and I was dead-pleased she handled it really well. I kinda thought 'this guy's wasted my time and seeks to waste my money on a car with a knackered HG, so I'll not feel guilty about wasting a bit of his'

I was a bit surprised to realise this partic car was a 16V version of the 2.0 HDi. Its not important now, but for future car-buying ref, is there a way to tell the 8V and 16V apart before travelling to see a car, perhaps by emissions or something?

In other news
Am pleased to report that, in a somewhat surprising turn of events involving another 206SW some distance away, this one an example we were all dead keen on in a nice shade of blue too; it sadly had a knackered rear axle

...so the 'long shot' Ford Focus C-Max (yes, really!) that was on the way home (I'm not really a Ford man) came good and was ridiculously cheap... I can't work out whether its big, or if it just feels big coz of the steeply raked windscreen and deep dashboard.

I'm quite impressed with it though, its the 1560cc TD on a 54 plate, the "Oil Leak" is only from the Rocker Cover Gasket and even though the cover on the engine looked like the very 'shallow' type found with a Chain, rather than a belt, its also got a receipt for a Cam Belt Kit 30k ago. I'll look again at it in the light when I see Daughter next in a few days time and also research whether this is the PSA lump, or Ford's own. Its certainly smooth and quiet. We'd avoided the PSA 1.6D entirely, due to reports of poor reliability, but frankly were feeling a bit 'desperate' and it was dirt cheap; so any 'tips' to ensuring it stays healthy will be gladly received. Its filthy dirty, but that'll sort no problem.

Meanwhile, Changing the Subject Again.....
when I haven't been looking at cars, work has commenced on beating the boot floor of the 206 back into shape; I was pleased to find damage was limited to the rear-most panel, behind the cross-member and that none of the structural members are damaged. Initial thoughts were to plug-weld a new one on, but I'm going to attempt to straight it first using Blocks of Wood and lengths of stud 'squeezed together', the lower block with a channel cut in its middle for the stud to move as the Boot Floor moves back to flat-ness. I've not made these yet, but hope to do so in the next few days.

....a wee 'PS' about this. Is this yellow circled area damage, or is that panel supposed to be like that?
20200110_114422.jpg
Also Thank You Chris, for the info about the Shunt Fuse, about which I’d likely elsewise forever have been curious.

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Re: 405: Major Works

Post by doctle » 12 Jan 2020, 22:41

If you bought it you now own a PSA 1.6 diesel!

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Re: 405: Major Works

Post by ekjdm14 » 12 Jan 2020, 23:23

Yep, 1560cc is the HDi alright! Do we know if it's a 16 or 8v though? I'm thinking it'll be 16v.

Still, if the turbo and vac pump are good now there's a couple of small-ish mods one can do to prevent failure. I believe the main issue was the gauze screens in the turbo oil feed and vacuum pump oil feed that blocked with debris and with these picked out that issue is largely gone.

Also, any service history or receipts? Would be great to know how regularly the oil's been dropped and what they've put in it, obviously low SAPS is a must and if that's been adhered to then probably get away with it. I've read (on here, and elsewhere during the period when these motors were gaining their infamy) of well maintained fleet vehicles racking up over 100k/year and over 300k total with their original turbo intact. I think that says something for how good the good ones are, but says even more for how they like to be treated. Long journeys and being worked hard but maintained scrupulously appears to be their "thing". If I'm not mistaken they may be belt AND chain, belt to drive the fuel/water pumps and one cam but a chain linking the cams together. Don't quote me on that though!

On the 206 boot floor, I think the bit circled does have a crease in it. So far as I recall that bit was pretty flat inside the boxed area, it's where I stash bulbs/fuses and a can or tyre foam. Good move getting it as straight as poss beforehand even if you do plan to replace, that's how the pros do it, get everything where it should be first so that the new panel lines up easier when you start cutting the wrinkly bits out.