307 HDi non start after fuel filter change

[clydeowenp]

Hi,

I'm sure there must be some posts on this but can't find them, if someone can direct me to them it would be helpful.

I needed a cheap car to tow my caravan and found a 307 2.0 Rapier HDi 90. It was running perfectly until I removed the fuel filter to find out which type is fitted, I also removed the cabin filter and air filter for the same reason. I refitted the fuel filter so I could use the car while waiting for the new parts, followed the bleeding procedure in Haynes Manual but now won't start.

The engine management light did come on about a week before and it went into limp home mode. After about 2 - 3 starts the fault cleared so I didn't bother to check the fault codes.

The new filter arrived and I fitted it with a new o ring. I connected the inlet to the filter and put a container under the outlet and pumped the priming bulb until the fuel flow was free of air. I connected the pump outlet and pumped the bulb until it was hard. I tried to start the engine, it fired once then nothing, pumped the bulb again and tried to start but not firing. I tried to start it while a friend pumped the bulb but still no start. Checked various forums but it seems I've already done everything they suggest. I've not tried easy start or tow starting as I'm told it could damage the cat.

I took out the tank unit expecting to find a lift pump as in my Xantia but just a fuel pick up and fuel gauge sender. Filter was a bit dirty but certainly not blocked but I cleaned it all anyway.

Tried to read engine fault codes using an Autel MaxiDiag FR704, brought this after problems with my Xantia. Citroen dealer charged £85 to tell me what it might be then didn't have a fuel or air filter in stock! I was told it's designed for French cars but don't know how good it is. I've established its an RHY engine and I'm told as it has a priming bulb and no lift pump in the tank it's a Siemens fuel system. Clicking on that option did give 4 codes but I didn't write them down. One was throttle position sensor (intermittent) and the others were fuel pressure related. One gave a code but said consult manufacturers manual with an exclamation mark after it.

Tried to start it again and the battery died so took it off to recharge overnight. Put battery back on and got a message saying in economy mode, I understand this can only be cleared by starting the engine. After refitting the battery I noticed the light on the central locking switch is flashing rapidly when the ignition is on. Handbook says this indicates an immobiliser fault preventing the engine from starting, so now I have 2 faults! I wasn't aware of the proceedure for removing and refitting the battery so I may have caused this. Nothing in the handbook or Haynes manual.

It was suggested I do a BSI reset but can't open the windows! I was going to try it later with a friend disconnecting and reconnecting the battery while I stay inside, could this work or am I wasting my time!

If there's anyone with the equipment and knowledge to solve this I would be happy to pay for their services. I live in Margate Kent so if anyone is near enough and willing to help please let me know.

Other problem is MOT expires on 3rd September and I can't get it off the road. If not sorted by 31st August will cancel tax and dismantle for spares, no other choice! Peugeot dealer wants £60 for diagnostic check and can't do until 19th and independent Peugeot specialist on holiday till 28th which is cutting it fine.

Any help or advice would be much appreciated.

[GiveMeABreak]

We really need the fault codes - can you still get them as that is essential to get a better idea of what's not right with it. Also pop your VIN up here so we know exactly what system you have.

Make absolutely sure your battery charger is functioning properly (I dumped my 'advanced' Halfords) as only after three separate occasions did the display start saying it wasn't connected correctly - but previous to this nothing, yet the battery was not getting charged at all. Only when I replaced it with a smart charger did it actually take one and a half days to fully charge!

So back to the issue, if you are 100% sure your battery is fully charged and is not at end of life, then fllow the procedure here:

BSI Rest / Battery Disconnect / Reconnect Procedure

As for the window part - just flick the driver's door lock so the BSI thinks the door is shut - that will get round the windows part of the procedure. Then when you come to reconnecting the battery part and after the wait, just insert the key into the ignition, do the checks, then after you have removed the key from the ignition, use the unlock button on the fob to release the door lock, shut the door, re-lock and re-open.

This will make sure the ECUs are properly started up and that the key re-initialisation has been done. If it's not reading the fob properly, the starter will turn, but the engine ECU will stop it starting.

I suggest you try this first as it is the easiest and less expensive option. But do follow the guide fully and don't skimp on the timings.

[clydeowenp]

VIN is VF3**************[VIN obfuscated, can be read by forum staff], I'm assuming only FCF staff will be able to read this!

Charger I'm using is an Optimate 2 smart charger which I've had for a number of years and have complete faith in. Took over 2 days to fully charge battery from flat which is normal. The time I was able to crank the engine for suggests to me there's plenty of life left in the battery. I also tried a brand new 130Ah leisure battery I recently brought for my caravan but no success with that either.

I hadn't thought about flipping the latch so the BSI thinks the door's closed, will try this later and let you know what happens.

Sorry can't read the fault codes now, wish I'd written them down, can only remember there was 4 and they all started with P0 or P1. my diagnostic socket is behind a panel to the right of the steering wheel which I'm told is CANVAN. Selected RHY engine with Siemens system and the codes came up. If I try the same now just get a message saying "unable to communicate with control unit, check ignition on and scanner connected". I can read the codes for the ABS and Airbag but not the engine.

The link to the disconnect / reconnect battery procedure is the one I've been using. It's possible I did something wrong as It was late and I was tired. I've printed it out and will study it tonight and give it a go tomorrow and let you know how I get on.

Many Thanks
Clyde

[GiveMeABreak]

Yes that’s fine only the staff can see the VIN.

Yes, you have a CAN VAN electrical architecture, but the codes are really important if we’re to get any further. So see how you get in with the reset, then see if you can start the car and run the diagnostic again.

[doctle]

Did you check the fuses and connections?

[clydeowenp]

Tried the disconnect / reconnect procedure and the immobiliser light is still flashing rapidly when ignition is on. Engine still won't start but didn't expect it to as the immobiliser is still on. Tried the procedure 3 times and gave it a good 30 second blast on the starter but no sign of life. Still unable to read codes, again didn't expect to if scanner isn't talking to controller.
Checked the fuses under the bonnet and sprayed with contact cleaner but all ok. There seem to be some fuses missing but may not be needed on this model, anyway, it worked before without these so don't think that is relevant. Couldn't check fuses in glove box as the tool to remove / refit them is missing. Tried long nose pliers but dropped the first one and spent 30min trying to retrieve it. I made up a tool but it's too wide to fit between the fuses so hope the Mk 2 version will be more successful, will try tomorrow.
I can't read the codes with my scanner but will a Peugeot dealer be able to with their equipment? Can you suggest what I should be using to read the codes? I'm a bit wary of vehicle electronics, especially after reading some of the warnings on this and other forums. One you tube video showed a whole load of things changed to rectify a problem, which only made it worse. Turned out all that was needed was a BSI reset, wish my problem was that easy.
Peugeot dealer said they'll charge £60 for diagnostic check but will they be able to check the codes? Car is worth more for spares than it cost me so don't want to spend silly money on it.
Tomorrow will be spent getting my Spartan kit car running so at least I have a car to use. No nasty electronics and tax & MOT exempt, wish all cars could be the same!!

[myglaren]

Often the kits of spare fuses and bulbs come with a fuse extractor tool.

[GiveMeABreak]

Unfortunately, given the year, I have very little documentation on the system, but I know there are several Technical Service Bulletins concerning not being able to start the car or resynchronise the remote controls.

Several possibilities:

I can't speak for your 'diagnostic machine' that you have - you really need Peugeot Planet 2000 for Peugeot vehicles. This will read all the codes and give you live data.

If you had this, you could see what the actual fault codes are and also if the engine ECU is locked or not.
If the BSI has lost pairing with the key fobs, you could try and reprogramme the keys again - but you need PP2000 to do this.
Other suspects are the battery is end of life, if you've had it over 5 years then it's likely to be at end of service life - you can get it tested or try with a good known battery that is fully charged. If you have a weak or knackered battery it may not be sufficient to operate the electrical systems.
If the battery was fully charged and given that you took it off overnight, the BSI would of reset itself and on reconnecting the fully charged battery (following the battery reconnection procedure) and would of started the car - assuming the battery is not duff. You said you've only recently acquired the car - so I think it's safe to assume you don't know how old the battery is. This is one of the most important things that people overlook on these types of cars.
The Economy mode would not stop the car from starting and in all likelihood would be reset on having a fully charged battery connected.

You could once more try to resynchronise the fobs:-

• Make sure you have not tried to start the car - leave it for at least 10-15 minutes
• You must ensure the key is not in or near the ignition!
• After you have left the car for said time, place the key into the ignition.
• Turn the key to ignition only and within 10 seconds, press the lock button down for 5 seconds, remove the key
• Wait 10 seconds and then reinsert the key and try to start the car.

If it is not working again or the transponder light is flashing, then it is likely the key fobs have lost pairing and need to be reprogrammed using Peugeot Planet 2000 - where you will have to code all fobs together in one session and will need the customer confidential code to do this.

But without any fault codes it's going to be difficult to troubleshoot this - especially as you have a transponder light blinking - which means the the engine is locked or there is a fault or the key isn't recognised.

[clydeowenp]

I'll check the fuses today, when it stops raining, and try again. I assume the customer confidential code is the one on the plastic card about the size of the credit card. I didn't get this with the car and main dealer said they don't issue them any more. They will look up and write down the code for a fee, about £15 I think they said. Problem is they insist on seeing the V5c and proof of identity to cover themselves which is fair enough. I brought the car on 2rd July and I'm still waiting for DVLA to send me this, if the dealer ever sent them the old one.
Regarding PP2000, can this also be used on Citroen cars e.g. Xantia? I think the Autel MaxiDiag FR704 I have is pretty basic, brought this before I joined FCF. If I hadn't I would have asked your advice and probably made a different choice. Is PP2000 expensive and how easy is it to use? I know FCF members can get a discount on diagnostic equipment, read the post the other day, may be worth investing in one if the budget allows. The other alternative is if there is a member near me who has a PP2000 and is prepared to help me out. Of course I will pay for his (or her) time and any travel expenses. My only other option seems to be to tow it to the main dealer and pay £60 (+ vat no doubt) for a diagnostic check and take it from there.
I'm confident the battery is good, Optimate 2 charger tests battery and if the battery is in good condition and flat can take 2 days + to fully recharge. Charger was designed for charging gell batteries as used on motorbikes and can be left permanently connected without damage to vehicle electrics. No need to disconnect battery from vehicle before charging. I also tried a brand new and fully charged 130Ah leisure battery recently brought for my Caravan but still no luck.
When replacing the fully charged battery and following connection procedure it didn't reset the economy mode. Your last paragraph about the transponder needing recoding is what I feared, not something I can do with my scanner.

[myglaren]

There is a list of members offering diagnostic assistance here.
At the bottom of the page is a link to a map of their locations.
Contact them via PM but be aware that you may not get an immediate response, depending on the circumstances of said member, some have gone inactive but not reported it unfortunately.

Perhaps the dealer you bought the car from could give assurances that you are the current owner of the car, so you can obtain the confidential codes.

[GiveMeABreak]

PP2000 is for Peugeot vehicles and Lexia is for Citroen, and both of these are encapsulated within the Diagbox software package, which itself is used for either Peugeot, Citroen or DS Automobiles vehicles that are aged from about 2008 onwards. So Lexia and PP2000 will automatically be launched for older vehicles that are 2007 and earlier.

The VCI (the Vehicle Communications Interface) hardware is used with a laptop.

These really are recommended for PSA vehicles as they provide far more than code reading - they can interpret the specific constructor codes as well as provide guided procedures for some areas and can provide live data for troubleshooting. And of course, it can programme keys.

Expect to pay £100 or just over for a Full Chip Revision C kit - I recommend you don't go for a cheaper one as it will very likely not be full chip and will have issues working with some full CAN vehicles - it really isn't a good investment if you are going to get a kit and are going to keep PSA vehicles in future.

To answer your other question, yes, the confidential code is stored on the credit card - but as you have already worked out it can be obtained on proof of ownership and ID for an admin fee.

As for your Xantia, if it's a S2 qwhich 2000 will be then it should use the standard EOBD port, whereas earlier vehicles like the S1 and earlier XMs used a different type of socket (although you can get adaptors for these).

[clydeowenp]

Thanks for the list & map, not surprised to find there's nobody within a reasonable distance of where I live.
Will look on ebay and order a fuse kit, will need some spares anyway.
Just spoken to someone at Easy Diagnostics who was very helpful. Kit I need is £122 including vat & postage so I'll be in touch soon regarding FCF discount. Only problem is my laptop isn't suitable so will be looking for a cheap one on ebay. He seems to think that I can't do anything unless I can get the car out of economy mode so may have to tow it to the Peugeot dealer. Waiting for the battery to recharge then I'll try again and let you know what happens.

[xantia_v6]

Economy mode is a red-herring, as it does not affect the engine ECU, just most of the ancillary devices.

[Michel]

These are pain in the arse when they run out of diesel or you change the filter and drain the filter housing. Had it a few times on the Berlingo with the same system.

Solution - don't drain the filter housing or refill it with diesel before starting after you do.

[GiveMeABreak]

Economy mode is a red-herring, as it does not affect the engine ECU, just most of the ancillary devices.

Exactly - that's what it's for - to prevent battery drain from accessories to enable the car to start.