Worrying "crack" heard when closing window

[electronmirror]

Not sure where the idea of 45 degree rotation came from, the grommet with the spring wire clip will rotate 360 degrees. If using the leverage method it doesn't matter where the clip is pointing. If using the 'brute force' method rotate the grommet so the closed end of the clip is in the 6 o'clock position.

I'll try and find some of the pics I took at the time.

[MikeT]

Both Citroen Servicebox and Haynes state to rotate 45 degrees - I'm now thinking this is just to make grabbing it easier (which it doesn't much imo)

I've yet to determine why the cable's unlooped itself off the bottom spring tensioned pulley but my "assistant" has since broken the sliding clip that holds the cable ends (as he thought it needed rotating instead of the spring clip He's the sort of "fixer" that thinks looping the cable back over the pullley would "fix" it too ) I've yet to determine what originally failed and what else needs replacing.

[isisalar]

When you are all finished with the job you may find that the window will bounce back a little when it reaches the top. Fear not it just needs re initialising, there is a post on here somewhere explaining the procedure, from memory it involves lowering and raising all the windows in little steps without activating the one touch function. Then turning the ignition off. I've only done this once so may have missed something but the information is on here somewhere.
Cheers
Paul

[MikeT]

The weekend was a washout and today was looking the same but the rain abated while it was still fairly light so I went back to the fight

I slid a tie-rap around the clip allowing me to get a full hand grab and the clip yielded. The regulator unit is now sitting in my front room. Initial inspection shows the sliding clip is damaged (though that may have been caused by my assistant trying to prise it off last week). The lower spring-tensioned pulley popped itself out of it's hole so I'm unsure if it's re-usable or how it's spring is supposed to be located.



Additionally, due to winding the motor after breakage, one of the cables has got wound round, and lodged between, the spool and it's holder and again, I'm not sure if I can release it to see if there's further damage or if it's re-usable. All suggestions welcome.

[Hell Razor5543]

The sprung arm is OK. The arm (of the spring) engages that 'peg' at the 10 o'clock position from the keyed hole, and the plastic arm is keyed to that hole. The slide clip does need replacing (you can see where it has cracked, letting the end come out). However, from what I can see, the spool and the cable look OK, but will need inspection. Dismount the motor, and the spool will then come out easily (either on the motor spindle, or on its' own). You have to take the motor off anyway to rebuild the mechanism. This will allow the cables to come out without any further damage.

Looking at the slide, there appears to be a hole right where the sliding clip is. If so, that makes things a lot easier. You will want a couple of cable ties. Loop one around the free end of the spring arm, and leave enough room to thread the other cable tie, but not enough for it to pop back off (make sure it does not impede the path of the cable over the grooves on the arm). Fit the arm into place, but don't (yet) rotate it into its sprung position. Fit the second cable tie so that it passes through the hole in the slide and the cable tie on the arm. Pull the arm up tight and take up the slack on that second cable tie. If that works, you now have made life easier when you come to repair the mechanism.

The sprung arm is fitted the on this side of the slide (as shown in the first photo), but the other way over. The arm, when fitted, keeps the tension on the cables to allow for the anti-pinch mechanism to work, and to keep the cables on course.

[MikeT]

Fortunately, having an assistant is easier than using cable-ties. We freed the spool and checked the cables - no kinks or damage to worry about, thankfully. Rewound the cables, refitted the spool then set about trying to make ends meet (so to speak). Even with the spring arm fully loaded and the bottom cable fitted, the top cable nipple comes up a couple of millimeters short - presumably the cable windings could have been tighter or am I missing something?

I've ordered a new clip and will revisit this when it arrives but I'm wondering how to set the sliding clip in the right position to re-attach the glass - I presume I can connect the wiring and use the motor?

[Hell Razor5543]

I would take a look at the first major write up I did. It is difficult to guess how much of each cable needs to be wound onto the spool to let the slide clip be in the right place. You can (once the mechanism has been re-assembled) connect up the lead (and switches) and then position it accordingly, but I would then disconnect the switch (and take the key out of the ignition) so as to prevent accidental moving when you least require it.

All of the parts are correct (obviously, as, barring the replacement clip, they are original), so everything should fit. I think I had a similar issue at first, and it was because I had not properly seated the white spring arm, so it was not moving through its full travel. Once I got that sorted it all went back together properly. I would remove the spring and then pop the arm into place so that you can see how it goes together and how far it moves without the spring hampering you. Once you are happy you can take the white arm back out, fit the spring back in, and have another go.

[MikeT]

I think I had a similar issue at first, and it was because I had not properly seated the white spring arm, so it was not moving through its full travel. Once I got that sorted it all went back together properly. I would remove the spring and then pop the arm into place so that you can see how it goes together and how far it moves without the spring hampering you. Once you are happy you can take the white arm back out, fit the spring back in, and have another go.

I'm confident the spring-tensioned pulley is properly fitted and was at it's furthest reach as it was against the pressed stop bump on the rail. Oh well, see what happens when the part arrives and I attempt refitting the spool and cables for real - hopefully Thursday.

[Hell Razor5543]

I think you might have the sprung arm incorrectly aligned (and I apologise if I did not make it clear in my previous instructions). I would remove the spring (for the learning curve bit), turn the white arm over (as related to the top of your two pictures), fit it into the slide, and then pivot it anti clockwise until it stops, pointing roughly at the spool location. That is its normal alignment. The bump stop is for the slide clip.

Imagine the frame cabling is a low, flat triangle, with the slide clip spigot (the bit that goes through the hole in the window) pointing vertically. The spool is at the top of the triangle. One cable comes off the spool, goes down to the grooved wheel at the left of the frame, round it and then onto the clip. The other cable goes down over the free end of the white arm, around the grooved pivot bit of the arm, and then onto the sliding clip. The spring arm is there to keep the proper tension on the cables. I hope this helps.

EDIT; This is for the nearside window, but it could help to show how things go back together;

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CITROEN-XANTI ... 4165df6677" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[MikeT]

Sorry. Probably my lack of precision in writing of detail makes you think it's wrong so I got the camera out.

I used these pics for hints

http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/attach ... ld0866.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/attach ... mbly-2.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

and this is mine now (without cable tension pulling the pulley against the stop, ie spring at rest)

[Hell Razor5543]

You have got the white arm in the right position, but it can rotate round further by about 30 degrees to the right (as shown in the second of the two aussiefrog photos). You might want to push the white arm firmly into the frame before rotating it further. Mind you, that also shows the spring arm lying along the frame, which would suggest that peg sticking up is to stop the white arm rotating too far.

I wonder if that round hole on the part of the frame the white arm goes could be used to secure it in place (with a long bolt) while the spring (and the cables) are fitted into place? The hole shows up best in the first of the previous two pictures you posted.

I have done this once before, but it was about 3 years ago!

[xantiagreen]

Hi Mike, Seems we both have the same problem, I'm currently waiting on a 2nd slider block from Liverpool, first one broke after a day luckily window didn't smash when it fell to the bottom that slider was from Turkey (still waiting for a refund) I 've sort of become an expert at removing and fitting the bloody regulator and winding the cables after good advice from MJM, once the cables are wound the slider block is just slightly more to the left side of the rail towards the grey pulley fit the left cable over the grey pulley and into the slider block, for the right cable don't run it over the white pulley yet first get the end nipple into the block once done push the white pulley all the way to the left fully tensed and pull the cable into the crevice, now using a flat headed screwdriver smaller the better tease the cable over the bottom part of the white pulley and it's in. Place the clip into the rubber bung and press it into the hole in the window, make sure you check the far left side of the window when lifting the window up making sure it's still within it's guide.

My slider should be here today or Friday, repair on Saturday. Whens your slider estimated to arrive?
2 xantia's, 2 failed regulators, 2 annoyed owners, but who's going to fix it first. Should be a good trailer following on from that!

[MJM]

I emailed Faz some photos of my "adventures" with the window slide block and a few hints and tips. I'm away for a few days now with no access to them. Perhaps Faz could forward them if required.

I've a couple of spare rubber bushes and clips to go through the window glass if anyone wants one. I had to buy a bag of 5 and only used 1. (I didn't know Citroen did a Xantia with 5 electric windows!) I won't be around now until Tuesday next week but please pm me or post on here if you need 1.

MJM

[xantiagreen]

I emailed Faz some photos of my "adventures" with the window slide block and a few hints and tips. I'm away for a few days now with no access to them. Perhaps Faz could forward them if required.

I've a couple of spare rubber bushes and clips to go through the window glass if anyone wants one. I had to buy a bag of 5 and only used 1. (I didn't know Citroen did a Xantia with 5 electric windows!) I won't be around now until Tuesday next week but please pm me or post on here if you need 1.

MJM

Hi MJM, Did you get my email, could do with a rubber bung and clip would appreciated it very much, if you haven't read it yet I'll wait for your reply.

Cheers.

[MJM]

I received one on the 16th and replied on the 18th. If you can send me your address I'll do my best to get the bush and clip in the post tomorrow, Friday, but I'm a bit busy so may not manage it.

Malcolm.