Xantia rear strut clip removal

[Mandrake]

The ARB bolts look like they might be a bit stubborn, and the thread on the through bolt is pretty rusty.

You don't need to remove the ABS sensor to get the arms out, when I did my rear arm bearings I left the sensor in because it looked like removing it would break it...(rusted in even in NZ!)

Unplug the connector above the suspension cross member. To do this you'll want to drop the spare wheel and carrier right out to give plenty of room to work and see it, then reach your hand over the cross member to the connector - its a standard type like those found on the engine with the small wire clip. One hand pulling on the wire and the other using a screwdriver to push down the wire clip should release it. I think from memory there MIGHT be one or two click in plastic guide lugs where the cable runs along the cross member that will need prising up. The cable then goes along towards the front and comes through a hole in the arm near the pivot and only has a rubber grommet holding it in. As you remove the arm simply prise the rubber grommet out of the hole and the sensor and entire length of cable will come out with it - the plug will fit through the hole left behind to allow you to fully free the arm from the car.

It's a wee bit fiddly initially releasing the connector because the gap between the cross member and floor is only about 3 inches, but preferable to breaking the ABS sensor and nothing compared to what you've already been through!

EDIT: Just re-read that you said ARB bolts not ABS bolts! I really need to learn to read... In any case, don't remove the ABS sensor...

[RichardW]

Thanks Simon I might need someone with skinny hands then....!

Malc - boot is £8.12 clamp is £9.62 It must be gold plated or something! I guess that it could be replaced with a normal jubilee clip though. Boot is in remarkably good condition, given the state of the rest of it, so I'd rather not destroy it if I don't have to.

[c.morewood]

Clamp is £5.00 inc vat and post from Malcolm Lockwood


"we have 26140919 in stock price £5.00
including vat & post
regards
malcolm"
Your pins are in the post.

Its just perseverance Richard.. you versus the Xantia.. you will win eventually.
If you really want to detach the shaft.. but it will destroy the joint.. use a screwdriver to lever off the sleve joint which joins the end to the shaft.. I'll post some pictures in a few minutes.

Chris

[c.morewood]

I hope this helps..you can see the sleve/collar which lets the shaft vary its angle according to the suspension height.
The nail punch ground down to get the pin started and then a 3mm allen key minus its head to finish it off.
Do you happen to know where the O ring might go? I found it below where I was working in amongst all the rust etc that had fallen from the car.. maybe in the flow pipe?

[addo]

It's probably from the rear split caliper set.

[c.morewood]

Thanks Addo.. I did have the calipers apart scraping the corrosion away.

Chris

[citronut]

Thanks Simon I might need someone with skinny hands then....!

Malc - boot is £8.12 clamp is £9.62 It must be gold plated or something! I guess that it could be replaced with a normal jubilee clip though. Boot is in remarkably good condition, given the state of the rest of it, so I'd rather not destroy it if I don't have to.

i wouldnt use a jubilee clip as it need to straddle the seepage return and vent pipe,

im sire if the clamp will not undo, you could cut through the bolt then on the bench heat the threaded/nut section of the clamp to remove the rest of the bolt, then find a long 8mm bolt to replace it ( re/ferb the old clamp )

[NewcastleFalcon]

Richard


When you remove the radius arm, there may be a very long curly brake pipe to negotiate your way round which clips onto the top of the arm. Not beyond the realms of possibility that this may be difficult to disconnect and reconnect in one piece.

There is also the wiring connector for the ABS sensor. Not sure where this is located and whether it is easy or difficult to disconnect. When I dismantled my old xantia I dropped the rear subframe and pulled it out from under the shell so it was access all areas when I took the arms off. (EDIT: just spotted Simon's comprehensive post on this above)

Just for fun I thought I would get the rear arm from my old xantia out of the shed and have a go at removing the cup from the arm which receives the rod from the strut, by punching the retaining pin out. Sorry to say it was totally unsuccessful.

I have exhausted my reservoir of useful tips on this one. All I can say is good luck, and I hope you eventually get the stupid pin out.

regards

Neil

[RichardW]

Thanks Neil.

Progress tonight! The trailing arm bolt is undone (it gave a good fight getting it past the rust on the threads - god I need a windy gun!!), the ARB bolts are undone - they were tight, but came easily once cracked off, the ABS sensor is unplugged (not too bad on an estate, but tie wrapping the cable to the top of the subframe above the trailing arm is a stroke of genius - NOT!), ABS grommet is freed off (although not out yet, I can see why changing one of these is a nightmare job), sphere removed, and cylinder boot freed off - this one has some sort of spring clip on it, rather than a bolt up one, brake pipes unbolted around the ARB to give more flexibility, brake back plate removed, and caliper bolts slacked off (but I knew they would go easy, as I only put them in 9 months ago )

By this time it was 8.30 and getting dark, so decided not to fight with the arm tonight - that can wait for Wednesday. I'm still sceptical that there is enough room to remove the arm with the push rod intact - it goes in the cylinder a long way, but perhaps there is enough slack in it to allow it to come out. How heavy is the arm (disc attached)?

Tentatively, I would say that anyone facing the replacement of the strut would be well served to give the pin about 30 mins, and if it has not given in, then just progress to removing the arm - had I done this, I would probably have it nearly back together by now - although I note Neil's travails above in trying to defeat the pin in his spare arm.....

[citronut]

make sure the cylinder piston is pushed fully in

[RichardW]

Tonight it is RW 1: Xantia 1

I can confirm you can remove the rear arm with the push rod attached Don't ask me HOW though - just kept wiggling and pulling till I got enough angle and the pushrod popped out, and then the arm came out of the subframe.

I can also confirm the pin is firmly wedged in the arm

I used to think that the clutch clip had the highest ratio of time required vs cost of the part, however, I now see that that is woeful by comparison. Clip is £1.20 and so far 10 hours expended, and it is STILL laughing at me!!!!

Oh, and remember to remove the clip that goes into the arm from the ABS plug before you are half way out with the arm and realise that the wire won't come through the hole

[NewcastleFalcon]

Richard

At least now you have the arm off there is no longer a problem with restricted access, but as I found it is no easy job to get the pin extracted.

You have a range of possible additional weaponry on your side now. These may range from:-

Continuing persistence with plus gas, an appropriate diameter punch, and some really heavy blows with a large hammer

Taking the arm to an appropriate "machine shop" and getting it drilled out with better drilling equipment than a hand held black and decker.

or going the full destructive mode and trying to literally break the bottom part of the cup/pin ( although probably best to investigate the availability of the part beforehand)

The drilling through the bottom bit of the "cup" that the pin fits through is very close to the bottom of the cup (see C.Morewood's picture)
There is also a destructible "collar" (se also C Morewoods picture)

Once this collar is off, it could be a possibility to weld a large nut to the end of the cup, and with a long enough lever arrangement and a bit of waggling backwards and forwards the weakest part of the structure will shear/break. This could be the pin, but in my case it was the bottom part of the cup which broke off. As you can probably see from one of my pictures the stupid pin still remained in the arm.

Further hammering did remove it from this position however.

Other forum members may well have some better suggestions short of the full destructive last resort, so once again I wish you the best of luck,

regards

Neil

[RichardW]

RW 1.5 ; Xantia 0.5

Pin out, and pushrod liberated from the arm . Having received new pins from Chris Morewood I can see why they are so difficult to drive out from the outside - the end isn't flat! Cut the other end off mine and filed it burr free, a couple of good whacks and it dropped out Push rod was then liberated from the arm with a bit of cold chisel action and a good wiggling My colleague is having a look at fixing the ram, so hopefully it will go back together at the weekend (hence Xantia still rating 0.5 ).

I think in fact this is probably the best way to attack them on the car - there is probably access from the in board end (although not generous!) and then you can make sure are hitting the pin square on.

[Mandrake]

Ah, excellent news

You've got a lot more determination than me I think, on the other hand I suppose your wife isn't letting you back inside until she gets her car back...

So the cylinder is in the hands of your work mate already if you're hoping for it to be back before the weekend ? Did he seem optimistic ? Fingers crossed its repairable, but at least its out!

Are you thinking of doing the rear arm bearing while its all out ?

[Peter.N.]

I have done one side of my C5, on the other I got the clip out with a bit of persuasion but I cant get the pushrod end out of the arm, I can twist it but it won't come out, I have also split the boot in the attempt

Peter