Xantia HDI 110 Clutch slave kaputt..

xmexclusive · Post by **xmexclusive** » 19 Mar 2010, 15:30

Hi Jim

I think you are wrong about the push rod difference being due to RHD/LHD.
I put the 3 changes to the hydraulic drive/box housing/push rod in my earlier post. I included the ORG change over dates and the two earlier push rod lengths. The change over date that I gave for type 2 to type 3 was 8001 and that agrees with your parts list. It would seem that the type 3 rod length is 99mm. In practice I suspect that this latter 99mm push rod will fit and work ok in all three types of cylinder. It is just 4mm longer than spec for a type 1 cylinder, 8mm short of spec for a type 2 cylinder and correct for a type 3. These differences are small in relation to overall push rod length and total operating movement so little chance of it being so short it pushes out of the cylinder or so long that it rides the clutch and causes slip.
I think that these hydraulic clutches have found their way into some Synagies and some Citroen vans as well as a number of Pugs as it was widely used in MG5T and ML5T boxes. That we know so little about them is just an indication of how reliable they usually are compared to a clutch cable particularly the auto adjust cables.

John

Post by **xantia_v6** » 20 Mar 2010, 19:47

i3, do you still ned a slave cylinder? I liberated one from a scrapyard today from a 2.1 with an RP of 79xx. It looks to be in good condition, the rod is still in the cylinder.

Yours for £10 plus postage if required.

i3 · Post by i3 » 20 Mar 2010, 21:52

yes please!

i would much appreciate that...i have been really struggling to find one.... Do you have a paypal? Or something? Or how are we gonna do this? Im good however... Or i could pick up if your not too far... Im in Oxfordshire

Geoff Lebowski · Post by **Geoff Lebowski** » 21 Mar 2010, 03:34

Hooray for i3! Good news mate!!!!

i3 · Post by i3 » 22 Mar 2010, 19:15

hey, cylinder is on way

.....
just wondering... i went to a local part shop to get the nut and bolt for replacing the pin with thats holding the pipe to cylinder.... i asked for the m3-3mm as described in one of Dave's earlier posts... but they didnt have it and they gave me a ba-3mm nut and bolt... will that be alright? or should i try another store?

HDI Dave · Post by **HDI Dave** » 22 Mar 2010, 19:37

cool, now we can start fixing it..@ page 7! lol.

"a ba-3mm nut and bolt" did i mention that..or someone else?!
As far as i remember i just squeezed/drifted the old pin back in, it's a tight fit, so it's not going anywhere.

i3 · Post by i3 » 22 Mar 2010, 20:35

i think you mentioned a m3-3mm not and bolt....

HDI Dave · Post by **HDI Dave** » 23 Mar 2010, 09:22

Once the slave is out drill, out the pin that holds the pipe in place. This can be replaced with a M3 30mm nut and bolt, or some other 3mm pin.

member kip

i3 · Post by i3 » 24 Mar 2010, 02:31

i can't seem to get the pin out of the pipe to the slave.... Ive been using a small allen key on the side that there is a hole... Its a little bigger than the hole and i have been just placing it over the hole side and tapping it...doesnt seem to be moving at al.... Do i need a something that fits into the actual hole side of the pin? Or just something which taps the whole thing?

Post by **xantia_v6** » 24 Mar 2010, 13:29

Ideally you would have a stepped punch that has an end that fits inside the pin and a shoulder that will push the pin, but fit through the hole you are pushing the pin through.

It is important that the body of the cylinder is solidly supported around the pin, so that any force you apply will not try to bend or split the plastic. Maybe a block of wood with an appropriate hole drilled.

If you dont have a suitable punch, whatever you use must be straight, so that force from your hammer is applied exactly along the axis of the pin.

I would not recommend drilling the pin, as it is spring steel and drilling it is likely to make a mess of the surrounding plastic.

HDI Dave · Post by **HDI Dave** » 24 Mar 2010, 14:02

iirc (my mate took the pin out, not me)

I think he took the head off the pin with an angle grinder, then the pin simply taps out.

Post by **xantia_v6** » 24 Mar 2010, 18:38

The pin on the cylinder I sent i3 is a spring "roll pin", no head.

i3 · Post by i3 » 24 Mar 2010, 23:57

ok.... i managed to get the pin out.... tried to bleed it how you did Dave.... i thought i got the air out... put it back together,,and into the bellhousing... same... still nothing... so tried again... put it back together...still not working... except this time,,now the clutch pedal feels like it has something,,but only right at the bottom though,,, this may be just me imagining it.. not sure... but....... now the pedal comes back up...this i am sure of...before it would definitely stay at the bottom...it doesnt have the usual spring back as a clutch pedal would,,but it certainly comes straight back up to the top by itself.........
Dave, you know the bit where you said your mrs pushed the pedal down slowly whilst you were connecting the slave to the pipe... please explain this a little bit more please... should the pedal be pushed down to the bottom fully? do you start pushing the pedal before connecting the pipe and stop when its connected? thanks

HDI Dave · Post by **HDI Dave** » 25 Mar 2010, 11:27

i3 wrote: i thought i got the air out... put it back together,,and into the bellhousing... same... still nothing... so tried again... put it back together...still not working... except this time,,now the clutch pedal feels like it has something,,but only right at the bottom though,,, this may be just me imagining it.. not sure... but....... now the pedal comes back up...this i am sure of...before it would definitely stay at the bottom...it doesnt have the usual spring back as a clutch pedal would,,but it certainly comes straight back up to the top by itself.........

Sounds good, those were my exact same results, so from having zero fluid pressure and the clutch pedal on the floor, now it returns...great,hopefully it just needs more bleeding.

Take the slave out of the bellhousing. Disconnect the fluid pipe again whilst trying not to lose any fluid.Plug the end of the fluid pipe.
Place the slave vertical somewhere. Get some thin,clear pipe,i used some fish tank pipe.

copied your pic and it's gone tiny! anyway:
Stick the clear pipe over the metal nipple on the end of the fluid pipe,arrowed in the pic. Take the top off the bulkhead reservoir and put rags round it.Syringe fluid into the clear pipe which should expell most of the air out of the reservoir.Should get plenty bubbles,then carry on untill the res is full,brimming.
Take the clear pipe off the end of the fluid pipe nipple and quickly place your finger over it,so no fluid can get out.
This is where the mrs, or assistant comes in:
The pedal should now be in the correct ish place,ie,in the middle,not on the floor.
Part 1.) Hold the full clutch slave vertical. Get the mrs to gently press the clutch pedal while you still have your finger over the end of the pipe.You should feel pressure.Then quickly connect the fluid pipe to the slave,whilst fluid is being squeezed out,so air can't get in. When connected,make sure the bulkhead res is full,and the mrs can then let go of the pedal. Put the small pin back in the slave (holding the fluid pipe on). Put the connected slave,with its pushrod,back in the bellhousing.

You could try the clutch now,but i found air was still in there

so wifey comes in useful again:
Part 2.) This can be a bit tricky,as it's under pressure,but a bit of persistance and swearing works well:
Keep the bulkhead res full.Take the pin out of the slave whilst holding the metal fluid pipe end,do not press the pedal,as the pipe will shoot off the slave.
With the mrs gently pushing on the pedal,let the pipe out of the slave very slightly,while you push hard against it (i think i used a big bar in the end,wedged against something and the metal connector). Fluid should pi$$ out.While mrs is on the downstroke,force the connector back in.Once it's in,the pedal can be released. It's just like bleeding the brakes,but we're manually moving the connector in and out of the slave, instead of turning a bleed nipple

You may have to repeat this a few times,keeping an eye on the bulkhead reservoir level.
You can tell if it's working as the pedal gets more of a spring in it.

clause: this is from a long ago frustrating memory,so if i've missed summat,i'll try add later lol.

Sl4yer · Post by **Sl4yer** » 25 Mar 2010, 12:41

Was it decided that the clutch was actually fitted correctly some pages ago?

James