Xantia blower motors

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cox377
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Post by cox377 »

I guess I was just thinking, with an AUX ciggy lighter about 6 inches away maybe I could just power it off that

CoXen
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Xaccers
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Post by Xaccers »

cox377 wrote:I guess I was just thinking, with an AUX ciggy lighter about 6 inches away maybe I could just power it off that

CoXen
You can, I first did that with Cassy, but instead of a manual switch I added the relay (makes life much easier), however the feed for the socket is only 20A.
I've not had a problem in 2 years with it.
It's a lot of hasle though as the lighter lead isn't that long.
The easiest way (which I did on Jenny) is to pop the steering covers off from underneath, and fit the relay there.
Hmm, I wonder if a wiring kit could be made up similar to the diode box for the VSX...$$$

If you like, I can take some photos tonight/tomorrow.
1.9TD+ SX Xantia Estate (Cassy) running on 100% veg
1.9TD SX Xantia Hatchback (Jenny) running on 100% veg for sale
Laguna II 2.0dCi Privilege (Monty)

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csdano
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Re: Xantia blower motors

Post by csdano »

Hi Pavel and All!

Thanx for the information about this heater fan issue.
You spared me around 80EUR to pay for the new control electronic. 8)

I cleaned and refined with a screw driver all of the contacts and its fine now. I may have to replace the contacts if the refinement is not successful for long time.

I can suggest to do not forget to care about the main contact of the fan unit coming from the control electronic. It seems to be solded to the fan itself, but it is not. It seems that was the main problem for me.

Bye,
Daniel

ok2ucx wrote:Dears, thanks for the final hints. The blower started to fail during recent rainy and colder days. So I cleaned the contacts, tensioned them and -voila- it works fine now for several days.

Since such blower problems are fairly frequent, we've summarized all maintenance required for this part of the car on the Czech Citroen forum:

0. (X1 only) ignition switch replacement with relay, the sooner, the better
1. all contacts to be cleaned and tensioned
2. worn brushes - especially if the blower resists to start, dismantle the motor, check or replace the brushes
3. (if the blower runs all the time at max. speed) - dismantle the motor, find the two big PNP Darlington transistor, replace the with MJ11015 or similar, apply "white vaseline" for better heat transfer.

Any other suggestions or typical faults?

Pavel

Mandrake wrote:
ok2ucx wrote:I'd like to ask about similar trouble that my Xantia 1 95' 1.9TD is experiencing. It only happens when the car is stopped full day and is really hot inside:
The blower motor can be controlled only few (1-2) minutes after start, then it drops to one of the lower speeds and remains there until key off. After the car (interior) cools down a little, it works OK.
Hi,

This is EXACTLY the symptoms I was getting for a couple of weeks before the fan stopped altogether - within 30 seconds of starting the car, if the fan was on a higher speed, it would drop to a very low speed and stay there until I turned the ignition off and on.

If I turned the ignition off and on it would work on high speed again for a short time and then drop to low speed - it seemed to do this much more often with the air conditioning turned on as well. (Not sure why) Soon after this the fan stopped working altogether.

All I can say is after I did the relay mod AND fixed the connectors on the fan, (as described above) it has gone almost six months now with no problems.

To be really sure of a good contact, I slipped the sleeves of the plugs back and soldered the crimp connectors so they were both crimped and soldered, tensioned the contacts, and used LPS1 to clean the contacts. No more problems after that.

As Clogzz says - highly unlikely to be the controller itself, just poor connections to the fan confusing the controller.

Regards,
Simon
8)
Citroen Xantia 1.8 V16, 1997
cox377
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Post by cox377 »

Xac wrote:
cox377 wrote:I guess I was just thinking, with an AUX ciggy lighter about 6 inches away maybe I could just power it off that

CoXen
You can, I first did that with Cassy, but instead of a manual switch I added the relay (makes life much easier), however the feed for the socket is only 20A.
I've not had a problem in 2 years with it.
It's a lot of hasle though as the lighter lead isn't that long.
The easiest way (which I did on Jenny) is to pop the steering covers off from underneath, and fit the relay there.
Hmm, I wonder if a wiring kit could be made up similar to the diode box for the VSX...$$$

If you like, I can take some photos tonight/tomorrow.
If you could that would be great, piccies is a lot easier

CoXen
cox377
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Post by cox377 »

Hiya, did you ever manage to take that photo. The time has definatly come to get this sorted with the cold morning :)

My rear window dismisters are working fine BTW.

CoXen
cox377
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Post by cox377 »

Hello mate,

Just a quick update, I've been out under the glovebox looking at the wiring, I touched the earth and live wire that goes directly into the blower round the back and it came on full blast, whilst holding the wire I tried the speed control, it made no difference it was on full, I was happy, went to get a zip tie to put it into place and it then wouldn't work. I've crimped the connectors closed to ensure there a good fit, still nothing, checked the fuse.

The live wire going into the blower control with the other 3 wires is live, the live wire coming out of the blower control is live.. so there is power getting all the way to the actual blower input.

What could I be missing?

Much appreciated as always

CoXen
citronut
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Post by citronut »

crimping these terminals destroys them as they are not made up like the standerd female lucar terminals, you mught now be best cuting them off and crimping new terminals on,

although it dose also sound like your speed control transistors need checking

regards malcolm
cox377
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Post by cox377 »

Hello there, when I say I crmped them , it's the double connector that goes into the back of the blower, I just pushed them together to ensure a good fit.

Where are you in Sussex?

I also saw handy man was in Sussex.

CoXen
citronut
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Post by citronut »

ok CoXen
im in St Leonards on sea

regards malcolm
cox377
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Post by cox377 »

Small world

I'm up at the Conquest hospital at the moment, used to live in St Leonards, currently between places.

CoXen
citronut
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Post by citronut »

not as an inmate i hope James,

regards malcolm
cox377
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Post by cox377 »

lol no, working there :)
cox377
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Post by cox377 »

Pleasure meeting you tonight malcom, thanks again

James
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Post by lefgrter »

:cry: :cry: I was 6 months without AC (All the Greek Summer)....
It is perfect now..... Time to put back the plastic covers.
Thanks a lot :wink:
kevan
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Post by kevan »


Pic

The two wires coming from the brown plug going to the switch are cut, extended, and go to the normally open contacts of the relay. (The two black wires in the picture with the taped joins)

The two cut wires from the switch are not live but I taped them up anyway. They are not used on any other switch contacts.

Pin 1 on the brown plug is the seperate supply run from the battery for the blower, and pin 2 goes across to F20 in the fuse box.

To get power for the relay coil, I tapped into the wire on pin 2 of the grey plug - this is the normal ignition switch output that goes to the engine ECU and is live in ignition on and starter mode, but not accessory.

Earth for the relay coil I took from a large bolt to the right of the fuse box. There is a convienient place to mount the relay on the side of the bonnet pull bracket which has plenty of clearance from other objects.

The consequences for this approach (compared to others) are:

a) The blower runs from the correct 12v feed from the battery - both pin 1 of the brown plug and pin 1 of the black plug go back to the battery unfused, but they are seperate runs of cable, and if you run the blower from the black plug the voltage drop that it causes will affect all other accessories such as dashboard lights, blinkers, power to the engine ECU etc. Also the blinkers, stop lights etc affect the fan speed.

When the blower runs from the brown plug this interaction doesn't happen, because the voltage drop the blower causes only affects the blower, and the voltage drop the lights cause don't affect the blower.

b) Using pin 2 of the grey plug to power the relay coil means you're not relying on dodgy contacts to run the coil - the downside of this is that the relay will also be on in starter mode as well as ignition on mode.

In actual fact this is not a problem because the fan controller will not activate the blower until the engine is started and has been running for a couple of seconds anyway - it never tries to run the fans during starting the engine, so it's a non issue.

c) No seperate fuses required - F20 of the fuse box is still the fuse that runs the blowers, so if the blower fuse blows you're not taking apart the steering column to replace the "extra" fuse fitted there with the other methods...

Hope this is of use to someone. And note that this only applies to Mk1 Xantia's. (Mk2's already have a relay for the blower)

Regards,
Simon
This is an amazing write up and I've been to maplins and bought a 40A SPNO Auto 12Vdc relay with 4 terminals,
As I know absolutely nothing about Car electrics I asked the assistant to tell me which terminal was for earth and which was live, leaving the other 2 by default as the 'open' contacts. I was told that you "dont earth" a relay. Can anyone please let me know what termianls 85, 86 87 and 30 do ?

Thanks very much.

Kev
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