Electrical Pinout of C4 2009 Boot Lid Connector

[wheeler]

Doing a repair to the harness should be fine, wouldn't dream of replacing the harness for a broken wire or two.

[CShape]

Went to check wires today, Opening Button wire has no continuity, 6297 to pin 5 broken. All others seem to be fine.

Pulled back the rubber on the left where it enters the trunk lid ... wire broken about the half way in the rubber - which makes sense, its the point where it bends the most.
But the rubber or wires are not really able to move enough to reach the lower end of the wire, can't even get the other clamp on the body side out.
Also water for the wiper seems to routed through there, rubber hose.

So how can this be repaired, any hints please?
Its nearly impossible to move wires/rubber far enough. Lower part of the rubber cover thing can't be clipped out with a screwdriver, like the upper end.
Even if a buy a rapair kit, the water hose will be a problem, the wires of course could be cut and crimped to the repair kit hose.
I could possibly cut the rubber ... but the water will leak in i guess.

[wheeler]

If you are struggling for room why not just slide a full piece of wire through, remember you can connect it to the circuit at any point between IC82 & the switch.

[CShape]

Thanks,

Well i failed in unclipping the rubber on the body side, is there a trick to it (only using screwdrivers, not any special psa equipment).
And I guess there is not much room in it left, the rubber does almost not slide, maybe because of the 2 curves - i have the rubber with 2 curved ends.

[CShape]

so i finally got the rubber on the body side unclipped ... easy if you known that there are 4 small hooks left/right of the big ones ... but how do i get a new cable through?

Tried with a stiff cable and a highly flexible one .... doesn't traverse through the bends and the other cables - at least not in the 2.5 hours i tried.
Well cutting the rubber would certainly help, but then i get water inside when it rains.

Any good solution?

[myglaren]

Can you push a straightened wire coat hanger through, attach a nylon string to that and pull that through then attach the wire to the string and pull that through.
Some silicone lubricant may help, on the other hand it may damage the insulation, there may be a better option, Vaseline, perhaps.

[CShape]

Thanks, It's definitely an idea.
Maybe normal grease will do? Oil may disperse the cables insulation over time.
I hope i don't damage the wipers water hose when trying with wire coat or sth. like that.
Stupid designers put all in the left one, except a ground wire in the right, so its very tight.
Would have been clever, to put at least the water hose on the other side.

[CShape]

Well, asked a friend for help, he fitted the cable through in like 3 minutes with a welding wire ... he uses for this often.

Looked like he did this hundreds of times.
So yeah, experience is everything for this anti-customer designed stuff.

[CShape]

Hi, basically fixed the locking 50%.

But sometimes it doesnt work depending on cables position. So i replaced pin1 cable of the lock (switching current), also i check the ground wire for continuity while bending the connector cable.... works too.

Can pin 3, e.g. 6283, cause those problems? When the lock opens the light in the trunk turns on.
Could this interfere? e.g. Lock not operating if grounded or ungrounded, as BSI won't send power?
I wouldn't expect that but since pin1 cable is replace from the bent to to lock and ground doesn't loose continuity .... yeah whats wrong here?

At least bending to connector fitted in the lock turns trunk light on and off depending on cable position.

[CShape]

Using new plugs fixed it - it all worked for a few days.

But now the rear wiper stopped working, sigh .
Do you please have a wiring diagram of that one too?

I wonder if its better to replace all wires going into the trunk at once, because they can all be fragile now .... at least the thin ones.