Cannot see clearly because of smoke during cold start

[white exec]

Agreed. Bit of assumption about this, so far, Mike. The 1.9 XUD has run across a few generations!

[CPtje]

Unfortunately I do not have a Haynes manual.

I drained the fuel filter a little but there was no water as far as I could see.

The injection pump shows the big number 513-5. It is almost impossible to read the small numbers on it. Please let me know if this is sufficient to identofy the pump.

Regarding electronics in the pump:
I had to remove the immobilizer electronics that control the main valve because the car did not start anymore. Now this valve is controlled by the ignition switch directly. This piece of electronics was under a metal piece of several millimeters thick. As far as I can see this was the only electronics circuitry I could identify. Although there is still the blue connector in the picture. And some kind of black switch on the top.

I also attached some pictures of the pump. Maybe this helps to identify it.

Carlo

[MikeT]

This photo shows (circled in red) an electrovalve fitted to the timing port (with the two torx bolts) of the Bosch pump.
This is just one variant but gives you an idea where the timing device would be, if attached.

[CPtje]

MikeT,
Definitely found this valve. What does it do? Can I check it? Could it be the cause of the smoke when cold?

Carlo

[moizeau]

If you hold your foot down whilst driving in first or second, how much black smoke comes out the exhaust? Do it two or three times, the first time can be accumulated soot in the exhaust. If it doesn't smoke too much then the pump rotation could be adjusted a little, it may be slightly retarded.

[MikeT]

I believe it is a cold-start timing device. ie, the pump still needs to be timed correctly for the device to work as accurately as intended.
The proper way to set the timing requires a measurement set by rotating the pump within it's slotted mount holes.
You could experiment (trial and error) by scribing the current position, then making adjustments and see what difference it makes.

The cold-start device changes the fuel pressure operating on the timing piston, according to other engine data.
I would say get a Lexia/PP2000 on it but I'm not sure it can be fooled into believing it's interrogating a Citroen/Puegeot. Worth a try if available?

One quick test you could do with the engine off, apply 12v+ to the terminal and listen for the valve click indicating the solenoid is being energised moving the valve.
You could also detach the solenoid power cable and see if the engine seems different after a cold start? ie, difference in starting, smoke or engine noise? If you do notice a difference, presumably for the worse, that would indicate it is functional and able to respond to ECU demands.

[GiveMeABreak]

I would say get a Lexia/PP2000 on it but I'm not sure it can be fooled into believing it's interrogating a Citroen/Puegeot. Worth a try if available?

From info I have read the Ducato can be interrogated with Lexia / PP2000 if you select Jumper 3 / or Boxer 3 as the vehicle - but you will need the S.1279 converter to work with it.

[moizeau]

Mike, I'd be amazed if a lexia/pp would be able to help, after changing the glowplugs a mates son;'s 206 last night, I plugged the pp n and all it could do is a fault check, couldn't even do an EGR check.
Good point on the check regarding the solenoid, you could equally put a 12v lamp in place of it? Disconnecting it altogether, as you say, would surely be a good check.

[MikeT]

Pete, yes the data is more limited the older the vehicle. I could monitor the sensors on my XUD9T MKII (much less with my MKI) Xantia along with other stuffs but they are more simplified engines obviously.

[CPtje]

Regarding black smoke:
Just some visible if I really step on it. So not a lot.

The grey/white smoke is only when starting when the engine is cold. If I leave it idling the smoke stays for a longer time. When driving away, so with load, it is gone within about 1 minute. From the smell I would say it's unburnt diesel.

First, I am going to check the valve connections and operation.

Is it save to fiddle around with the timing? Never done that before.

I am still not sure if my car has a MCU. Could the valve be controlled in another way?
Thanks for all your help and information!

Carlo

[moizeau]

Regarding the timing, if you mean moving the pump a little, yes it's safe. Your only changing when the fuel goes in to each injector. When you move it, keep the bolts tight enough to stop wobble on the pump, but loose enough to be able to rotate it. You're only altering the fuel timing, not the crank to cam because the belt has not been touched. Scribe a mark between the pump and mounting plate, so you can put it back afterwards if you don't see any improvement. Check to see it the timing solenoid is working first.

[moizeau]

Forgot to ask, what is the tickover speed from cold at idle?

[EDC5]

I wouldn't worry, combustion won't be at its most efficient when everything is cold as the pump is set up for operating temperature running (both timing and fuel quantity)

I wouldn't be surprised if any 17 year old diesel needs a bit of right foot to clear its throat from cold.

Condensation could also be a cause due to the presumably big long exhaust on a camper van and the time it takes for the backbox to get over 60 degrees or so.

[MikeT]

Just carefully and accurately mark the pump's position before loosening it. There's not that much movement allowed but a little goes a long way!
Even then, as I say, there's a standard procedure for setting the static timing by measurement so you have a way to reset it if need be.
Also, you might want to slacken off the injector pipes so as not to flex them when you move the pump. Then nip the unions once the pump is in it's fixed position.

Having said that, I'm also aware of the additional information your provided earlier about previous head work on this engine and I have to ask how confident you are with what was done?
I ask because ideally if the head was skimmed, the head gasket thickness needs to be matched to piston protrusion in order to maintain the correct compression ratio. Quite often, a thicker "repair" gasket is used just to be sure the pistons don't kiss the valves but may be so thick as to reduce CR slightly. Again, not the end of the world - you can run more fuel and turbo boost for instance

Additionally, the valve clearances may have required adjustment as they will have worn slightly and require reshimming.
Both can be causes of white smoke at cold-start due to lack of compression.

[CPtje]

Just checked the wax-stat cable again and although it seems to work and move freely I found that the settings for idle were so that there was very little movement possible of the wax-stat cable because of the screws for adjusting cold and hot idling.

The cold idle was around 800-900 rpm. I do not know what it should be when cold but I decided to increase it to make the wax-stat movement some more.

Now the cold idle is around 1100 rpm. Although there is still smoke, there is absolutely a difference but difficult to explain:
- When cold idle is 800-900 it gives almost continuous puffs of smoke and a continuous rough noise.
- When cold idle is 1100 it seems like after starting it gives puffs of smoke and a rough noise for short periods with an interval of about 1 second.

What should cold idle be adjusted to ideally? What is the max. to adjust it to?

Carlo