Peugeot 106 1.4D (1994) Cambelt change. camshaft hole doesn't line up

[clydeowenp]

Just tried to change the cam belt on my 106, engine is from a 1994 1.4 Kid Diesel. Spent ages trying to fit the locating dowels / pins to lock the flywheel, camshaft and crankshaft without success. I finally managed to find the holes and fit the pins to the injection pump and dowel to lock the flywheel. The problem I have is when the pump and flywheel are locked in position the camshaft is about 10mm out, i.e. it needs to rotate a further 10mm to fit the locking pin. I've changed many belts on BXs and Xantias with the XUD engine and never come across this problem before, anyone got any suggestions? When I looked closer the belt is about 5mm wider than the camshaft pulley and is flush with the front of the pulley but hangs off the back by about 5mm. The belt also hangs off the front of the adjusting pulley by about 5mm but the pulley is plenty wide enough for the belt. The new belt is the same width as the old one and runs centrally on the crankshaft sprocket with no signs of wear or rubbing on either side of the belt. The belt looks to be in very good condition and isn't noisy but seems a bit looser than it should be. I thought I'd change it rather than just re-tension it as I don't know when it was last changed. I've had the car since 2007 and have never changed the belt as I didn't have the correct tool to tension it. I recently brought the tool to do the belt on my Xantia Hdi so decided to do a practice run on the 106.
The car runs perfectly and even after sitting on the drive for 5 years started first time, no smoke and passed the emission test no problems. I can't understand how the camshaft can be so far out without valves hitting pistons. I'm sure the wrong camshaft sprocket is fitted, I'm sure Peugeot wouldn't have fitted a pulley that's 5mm narrower than the belt. If someone fitted the wrong pulley how did they time it without wrecking the engine? I believe there should be a key in the shaft but I daren't disturb anything without further information, valves hitting pistons would result in the car being scrapped. Doubt I could get a cheap replacement engine and an overhaul would cost far more than the car is worth. Perhaps these engines are more tolerant than most and the belt can be several teeth out without damage, does anybody know? My only other option is to get it through it's MOT and sell it quick while it's running well and hope it doesn't go bang too soon!

UPDATE 10th May 2018
Fitted new wheel cylinders (which meant removing the back plates to get the bolts out and making new pipes which snapped off in the wheel cylinders). Seems to have cured the rear brake balance problem (down from 64% to 5%), seems the regulator valve on one cylinder was stuck open. Tester said he wanted left side to go up not right side to go down so now it's failed on service brake efficiency. Good reading on handbrake so don't think it's shoes & drums, only done a few hundred miles since last MOT and was ok then. Tester wants the rear wheels to lock but if they lock in an emergency stop it would have the same effect as doing a handbrake turn. If I can't find a solution I'll have to remove the regulators from the wheel cylinders which will pass the MOT but make the car dangerous to drive on the road. Any help would be appreciated.

[JohnD]

All the pulleys should be the same width and all are a little wider than the belt. My 1.5 is in a Saxo but the same engine as the 106. Here's a picture I took when I was doing the belt on mine.


https://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/ ... ew&id=7826

[clydeowenp]

Many thanks for your reply (the only reply I got!) and excellent photo. I assume that's a belt tension measuring tool attached, is it a mechanical gauge? The one I have is a Laser 4212 which is a digital gauge which is rather fragile and will need recalibrating if dropped or over tightened. It'll eventually need recalibrating anyway after a set number of uses but doubt I'll ever reach that number. Still cheaper to buy than paying a garage to do it and my Xantia Hdi!
My engine is the earlier 1.4 TUD3 engine which is slightly different, mine has a single bolt holding the cam sprocket on and a single bolt on the pump sprocket. On the 1.5 the sprockets are bolted to a hub with 3 bolts and the hub held to the pump and camshaft respectively with a single bolt.
Your belt looks to be running centrally on the pulleys and sprockets, as I should be, with a few mm either side. When I line my camshaft sprocket up by eye it doesn't line up with the other sprockets and pulleys and being narrower I suspect it's not the correct one. Main dealer is no help and tell me they don't stock it and doubt it's available anyway, nothing on ebay so maybe someone on here has one. I wonder if someone's fitted a petrol pulley, when I checked the specs the belt for the petrol engine is 17mm wide and the diesel belt is 25mm. What worries me more is the position of the timing locking pin holes, sure it's different for a diesel than a petrol.
I'm thinking I should post this on the Citroen forum, perhaps someone with a Saxo may have the answer or even a pulley.

[JohnD]

I assume that's a belt tension measuring tool attached, is it a mechanical gauge?

Yes - my tensioner is a mechanical Burroughs tool. It's calibrated in Newtons but it's easy enough to convert to Seem units with a conversion chart. From memory I locked the flywheel with a bent 6mm rod, the cam pulley with an 8mm bolt and a 6mm drill for the injection pump. The bolts on the pulleys are in slots and need to be loose on the hubs as the tensioning is done. All the best with yours.

[clydeowenp]

UPDATE 25/06/20
Finally solved! Managed to get a pulley from an ebay seller in Poland, cost me £40 but still much cheaper than an engine rebuild. Not fitted yet but removed camshaft pulley bolt and locked crankshaft and injection pump and when I offered it up timing pin hole lines up. Seems the pulley is the same as Citroen AX.