XUD 9 oil leak

[CitroJim]

It's not something I've removed when I've done an XUD9 head - as far as I remember...

No real need to, unless you can see a good reason why it needs to come off...

[boxerbean]

There was a third bolt inside the plastic cap. I've got the head off, seem to be missing one of the locator shim thingamabobs. There's one on the top left but can't see the other, I don't think it fell out?

[CitroJim]

Well done Sir! Good work

[boxerbean]

Some questions:
I watched a video of an American guy refitting a head and he used a tap of some description to clean out the threads in the block prior to installation of the bolts. Where would I get that tap?

The locating shim is not laying about on my drive as far as I can tell, perhaps lost on a previous head job? If there is one missing where does it go and can I get a new one?

The harmonic balancer pulley bolt seemed very easy to remove, what's the correct torque? Same goes for engine mounts (into the head).

Do I need to replace the timing belt? - Some oil has been dripping onto the belt area and the accessory belts,as far as I know the engine fitter put a new one on and I've only done 500 miles since then!

Loctite for cambelt related stuff - what type?

Here's a photo of the head from above with the bolts in their respective positions, one or two are quite rusty...

[CitroJim]

Yes, good idea to clean up the threads with a tap. You can make one with an old head bolt by making three cuts in it with a hacksaw... You MUST replace the head bolts any way as they are stretch bolts and cannot be reused. Clean the threads out and blow out with an airline too..

I also recommend you have the head very lightly skimmed to ensure you have a god new sealing surface for the new gasket.

Crank pulley bolt should be done up FT with Loctite... You were lucky it came of without a fight!

Yes, cambelt should definitely be replaced, along with the water pump. Failure to replace the water pump is a sure way of guaranteeing it'll fail a couple of weeks later!

Check your cambelt jockeys and tensioner too... Replace if worn/noisy...

Loctite ONLY on the crank bolt as stated. Use the stuff that will come apart again

[boxerbean]

Cambelt and tensioner is new I think, he reckons water pump too, change belt because of oil contamination?

Have to remove the cam to skim the head,
What's involved in that?

[CitroJim]

If no contamination and you know they're new then reuse but make sure the cambelt rotates in the same direction as before when refitting... Tippex an arrow onto it...

[CitroJim]

Cam is easy to remove... Just undo the cam bearing journal caps evenly and then lift out...

Then lift each cam follower bucket and recover the shim under it. Keep all buckets and shims in strict order. Shims set the valve clearances...

When reassembling, the outermost cam bearing caps require a touch of sealant (such as Wellseal or Hylomar) where they contact the head surface... Failure to replace this sealant will lead to oil leaks...

The Haynes BoL covers all this work well.

Be sure to carefully torque the cam bearing journal bolts/nuts and don't over-tighten them...

Likewise, observer the head bolt tightening order and the three-stage torque settings... This is critical. Again, the BoL explains this well.

[boxerbean]

Thanks, Jim, I've ordered the Haynes, what do you reckon on my chances of getting away in it this weekend?!

[CitroJim]

Thanks, Jim, I've ordered the Haynes, what do you reckon on my chances of getting away in it this weekend?!

With a head-skim I'm afraid it's remote but if you skip the skim, which I'd not recommend, you can...

Don't rush the job though... Care and attention pays dividends... It's easy to ruin it if you rush it...

And remember, if you do go for a skim, it's just a very light clean-up skim you need; nothing heavy...

All best and I'm following with keen interest

[white exec]

After a HG issue in these engines, best not to avoid a skim/flatness check.
After re-assembly, pay scruplulous attention to coolant refilling and bleeding. Make sure all air is bled from the system using all of the bleed screws repeatedly. Check coolant level on subsequent days to be sure.

[CitroJim]

Good advice Chris

[boxerbean]

I've just removed the cam, I'm a bit stuck, the injectors need to come out? They seem to be two piece?

Also, the bearing caps - they fixed on with studs? Do I just locknut and wind them out? (if they need to come out).

I was a bit unsure how to remove the buckets but when I flipped the head over for a look they all plopped out in a nice orderly fashion shims intact - phew!

The head surface seems pretty flat, according to my now twenty year old steel rule, but there's deposits and general cack on it. Hope to get it in for a skim tomorrow...

[white exec]

The injectors come out in one piece - don't separate the two halves. You'll need to buy an injector socket to unscrew them - Halfords or a motor factor. I think the size is 27mm, but you'll need to check. Follow the Haynes instructions; it's good on this sort of thing.

Also replace with new the fire seal washer and copper washer on each injector, when refitting. Worth also getting hold of some new leak-off rubber pipe (Citroen sell a 1-metre length).

If the injectors have done upwards of 60,000 miles, worth getting them serviced - they strip, service and renew innards, and recalibrate to correct opening pressure. Here, it costs about €70 to have a set of four done. Best to go to a local Bosch service centre for this, or a good diesel specialist, who will also be able to supply the washers.

Cam cap studs in your photo will unscrew - locknuts, or failing that a mole wrench on the lower part.

Valves and head look good in your photo. If you have it skimmed, it should come back spotlessly clean.

[boxerbean]

The injectors really don't want to come out, can I heck turn them, any ideas? Leak off pipes aren't overly willing to pull off either

Edit: More man needed.

Clamped the head with blocks of wood to stop it rotating on the bench.