Citroen C5 MK I 3.0 ES9J4S Suspension Spheres

[GiveMeABreak]

For 3.0 V6 ES9J4S Engined C5s with Hydractive Suspension

(RPO 09055 - Build Date: 24/08/2001)

Diag Ref	Description	Part Number	Volume	BAR	Damper Hole
1	Front Corner Spheres	5271H7	385 CM3	52	0.9 / 0.48
2	Rear Corner Spheres	527273	385 CM3	25	1.4 / 0.94
3	Hydractive Regulator Accumulator 3+ Front	527621	385 CM3	62	* N/A
4	Hydractive Regulator Accumulator 3+ Rear	527266	385 CM3	44 or 45	* N/A

* The dampers are integral with the hydractive regulator.

[cornesoutafrica]

Hi Marc!

Rather late than never. I do have the correct replacement spheres on my car.

The old front spheres when removed had a metallic rattling inside when you shook it. I guess these spheres got a double diaphragm in them?

Im not too happy with the current damping. Just as a thought. Wonder what X7 c5 3.0 HDI spheres would feel like on a mk1?

For now I will just drive her and see what reaction develops over time. On another note. My ‘sport’ button on the suspension never worked. Bit of soldering on the motherboard and it works like a charm!!

[GiveMeABreak]

Hi Corne

The sports suspension mode only alters the parameters for keeping the car in the sports setting for longer than it does automatically. So the centre spheres will kick in and out according to conditions/ driving style. I'm not sure what you welded ( ) but would be interested to know! Whatever you have done, is it possible you are now permanently riding on only 4 spheres instead of 6?

As for the rattling of the spheres, there shouldn't be any rattling, unless of course the membrane has been punctured by the 'safety spikes' to prevent bursting of the sphere.

These are long life membranes almost impervious to nitrogen loss - so should last for ages.

[cornesoutafrica]

Hi Marc


I take back what I said about the spheres. After the gearbox flush I took her for a drive and it was truly one huge improvement in the drive quality. Unfortunately my fun got spoiled when I hit a pothole and lost a front tyre.... it was quite a weird experience as I thought it will be a very harsh jolt. It was kind of smooth. Well compared to a normal car.

Anyways. The soldering I talked about. It’s the central console switch for the height of the suspension and the sport button. The connection leading from the motherboard of the switch to the wires got damaged. The solder had a miniscule crack so it made sporadic contact. Now for the first time I can actually change the ride height and select sport.
Apart from the tyre. I’m super chuffed with my C5. Smooth as ever. Engine gearbox and suspension wise. I’m so happy.... let’s see how long it lasts ha ha

Corne

[GiveMeABreak]

Ah that makes sense!

Excellent news on the spheres and gearbox - pity about the tyre!

[cornesoutafrica]

I had to order a tyre. New Michelin primacy 4. Apparently michelin primacy 3 is not available anymore...


Next I need to tackle a passanger side CV jount boot.
Should I release pressure in the suspension to get the cv joint from it’s position?

Or should I rather ask if there is a specific procedure?

[Paul-R]

I had to order a tyre. New Michelin primacy 4. Apparently michelin primacy 3 is not available anymore...

Must be a recent thing. I had a set of four fitted to my X7 about two months ago.

[GiveMeABreak]

I had to order a tyre. New Michelin primacy 4. Apparently michelin primacy 3 is not available anymore...


Next I need to tackle a passanger side CV jount boot.
Should I release pressure in the suspension to get the cv joint from it’s position?

Or should I rather ask if there is a specific procedure?

No need to do anything with the suspension Corne. Here's the procedure for your car though:

Driveshaft Replacement Procedure:

Tooling

[1] hub immobilising tool 6310-T.	[ 2] ball-joint extractor 6323-T.
[ 3] Final Drive Output Oil Seal Fitting Drifts (Right Hand Side). Manual gearbox BE4 : 7114-T.X (kit 7116-T). Manual gearbox ML : 9017-T.C (kit 9017-T). Autoactive automatic gearbox AL4 : 0338 J1 or 0338 J3 (kit 0338). Autoactive automatic gearbox 4HP20 : 8010 T.D or 8010 T.K1 (kit 8010-T).	[ 4] Final Drive Output Oil Seal Fitting Drifts (Left Hand Side). Manual gearbox BE4 : 7114-T.W (kit 7116-T). Manual gearbox ML : 5701-T.A (kit 9017-T). Autoactive automatic gearbox AL4 : 0338 H1 or 0338 H2 (kit 0338). Autoactive automatic gearbox 4HP20 : 8010 H1 or 8010 T.K2 (kit 8010-T).

Removing

Lift and support the vehicle with the wheels free. (I would remove the LDS fluid tank cap first).
Drain the gearbox (manual gearbox).
Remove the wheels.

Fit the tool [1]. Remove: The pin (1) The steel cage (2) The drive shaft nut The tool [1]	Remove the pivot ball-joint nut. Uncouple the ball joint Using tool [2]. Detach the drive shaft from the hub.

L.H. driveshaft
Remove the L.H. driveshaft.

Right hand drive shaft: 1st Case Unscrew the nuts (3). Turn the screws a quarter turn to allow the bearing to come out of its housing. Remove the driveshaft.	Right hand drive shaft : 2nd case The bearing is freed automatically by loosening the screws ( 4) by a quarter turn. Remove the driveshaft.

Refitting

ESSENTIAL: Always fit new Nylstop nuts.

Replace the lipped seals systematically with the help of fitting drifts [ 3] and [4]. Apply grease to the gap between the seal lips. Grease the bearing outer cage. CAUTION: Take care not to damage the gearbox output lips when refitting the driveshafts. Fit: The drive shaft in the intermediate bearing The bearing in its housing The splines in the differential The driveshaft in the hub

1st Case Position the off-centred bolt heads, in contact with the bearing outer cage. Tighten the nuts (3) to 2 ± 0,2 dan.m. 2nd Case Turn the screws ( 4) a quarter turn at "a" until they come against the outer bearing cage. Tighten the bolts (4) to 2 ± 0,2 m.daN.

Refitting Continued
Continue refitting in reverse order to dismantling.

Tightening Torques

• Drive shaft nut (M24x150): 32,5 ± 1,5 daNm.
• Pivot ball joint nut: 4,5 ± 0,4 daNm.
• Wheel bolts: 9 ± 0,5 daNm.

[cornesoutafrica]

Hi Marc


Thanks for the procedure. Will I have to remove the while shaft to replace just the boot? Seems lile a proper job is coming. Worse than a cambelt replace

[cornesoutafrica]

I eventually got round to replacing the right hand outer cv boot.

Was quite straightforward. A bonus the the complete driveshaft unit just slides out of the gearbox.

Slight tap on the inner bit of the outer cv to have it come off the shaft. Replaced the steel C-clip. Slid the new boot and then cv onto place.

Fortunately the cv still had quite a bit of grease in it.

I tapped the cv back into place and made sure it doesn’t just slide off the splined shaft. My only worry is. Is it possible the cv doesn’t quite return to its original position? Meaning on the shaft making sure the clip expands in the position it should on the inside of the CV spline? For some reason I’m worried that the cv is not completely into place. It was quite a mission to get it back into the car.

All done now back in place but haven’t taken her for a testdrive.

I also noticed that there is play on the inner driveshaft... is that normal?