C5 X7 Engine Vibration at Certain Revs

[GiveMeABreak]

Just read your problem of C5 automatic engine vibration, do you have an update, as I have the same problem in the rev range around
1000 to 1500 or so going up or down.
It feels a bit like going over the anti skid rumble strips as you approach roundabouts.
I've had a main dealer, a Citroen specialist and a general Fred in the shed mechanic all tell me they can find nothing wrong
but I know there is, I just don't know what though. It's the 2008 Mk3 2 litre HDI.

Have you considered or recently changed the gearbox oil? These are not sealed for life and can be vastly improved with an oil change. This has to be partially done though, usually in 3 stages to ensure a near complete oil change over a short period of time, as not all the oil can be drained from the box.

[Sloppysod]

It could be the torque converter breaking up.
.

.............and there's me thinking that buying an auto is better than worrying about the expense of replacing the clutch & DMF every 40-50,000 miles!! , which is the reason & sold my EGS, (started to slip & vibrate)

[GiveMeABreak]

But the Autos are far superior to the EGS - the EGS just being a manual gearbox and clutch as per a manual - the only difference being the hydraulic actuators to operate the clutch and do the gear shifting. So you'd still have the expense of a clutch and DMF replacement to do on the EGS - but in addition, all the fannying about and added complication of the EGS actuators, hydraulics and programming. An AM6 auto will last ages if the oil is changed frequently - but like either system, towing anything significant will be shorten the life of any of the systems regardless.

I think you did the right thing getting rid of the EGS - I would never have one if someone gave it away.

[Xsaradope]

Torque converter failing, that's not what I wanted to hear. the problem also can be replicated while in N or P with a gentle on and off the throttle between idle and about 1500 revs, I was kind of hoping you would say " no probs , deffo engine/gearbox mounts "

[EDC5]

Wouldn't a disintegrating torque converter cause huge vibrations across the entire rev range?

I'd certainly recommend changing the oil on these AM6 boxes, good opportunity to check if there are any nasty metallic pieces floating around in the oil too.

[Xsaradope]

I posted a question a few months ago about my engine vibrations on my 2008 C5 M3 2.0 HDI and a couple of replies said change the gearbox (auto) oil. as this seems like a way for me to bu*ger it up, I asked two local autobox specialist and they both didn't want to !! From this I imagine it's a real pig of a job, unless of course they prefer to do full recon box changes and enjoy the easier life and better income.
Anyway, although I did want it done as the mileage is nearly 100k and I'm sure that I can do it myself (I used to have a Rover 75 and that's a car to teach anyone about car maintenance) I wonder if any of you have actually done this and how difficult was it ?
But I still think the engine vibrations may be engine mounts and not torque converter as there are no untoward noises just the normal engine which sounds fine, so the same question as the last, has anyone changed their engine/gearbox mountings and was it difficult.

Cheers Brian

[GiveMeABreak]

There are 2 guides - first the official procedure is in the first link and the second link in the post is to Elis's guide with pictures from doing his AM6 change.

Official Procedure:
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=56837&hilit=AM6+oil+change#p517292

Elis's Guide:
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=58134&start=45#p543115

But note you will need access to a Lexia to reset the oil counter which is a critical procedure.

[Sloppysod]

Brian - I followed Ellis's guide step by step and it was very easy, the only unnerving thing was draining oil out with the engine running ...urgh!! will be doing it again in March.
.......and as for getting the car level, it may be a red hearing but I put the front on ramps and the back on axle stands.

To get the oil in without spilling it, 2 foot (ish) or 1/2" fuel line, with on one end is a funnel and the other I have jubilee clamped a small piece of 13mm copper tube, the weight of the clamp helps keep the tube in the top bung hole and the funnel was tied to something above. Can't completely remember, age..... but you may need a 7mm allen key which are not always included in a typical set , perhaps someone will confirm?

[Paul-R]

... but you may need a 7mm allen key which are not always included in a typical set , perhaps someone will confirm?

Can't confirm either way but keep the 7mm Allen key handy for when you need to change your brake pads.

[Sloppysod]

... but you may need a 7mm allen key which are not always included in a typical set , perhaps someone will confirm?

Can't confirm either way but keep the 7mm Allen key handy for when you need to change your brake pads.

Ooops, that's it, I knew I had to buy it for something last year.........age again!!!

[Xsaradope]

Well here we are in April 2019 and the vibrations are worse, I did as you suggested and went to an auto box specialist who having said yes we can do a replace the box fluid, but then promptly declined to it, saying no we don't do that, too risky. And like a stereo duplicate another "Specialist" said exactly the same !
So this week end I'm doing it myself, I did it on my Rover 75 and it is exactly the same on this car
I now have a problem of Fault code P0215 or PQ215 which points to a fault on the Injection system supply relay circuit operating too rapid or relay still jammed when engine is switched off.. Never ending on this car I week ago I had a fault on the display saying oil level reading non valid, It turned out to be the plug on the sensor and it just fell off when I went to remove it for cleaning, plugged it back on and all working now. MY OLD GUVENOR USED TO SAY.........................
" NEVER BUY A SECONDHAND CAR, YOU ARE ALWAYS BUYING SOMEONE ELSES PROBLEMS"

[GiveMeABreak]

Ok, so I don't have your VIN, but if this is the DW10BTED4 2.0 138 Engine with Delphi Injection, then the fault code is as follows:

Fault code	P0215
After sales description of the fault code	Supply relay control : Short circuit to earth or short circuit to positive or open circuit
Description of the diagnostics	Main relay stuck
Conditions of activation of the diagnostics	Consult the associated contexts for the Pcode forwarding conditions
Conditions of disappearance of the fault	The following conditions have to be met - Engine idling (For several seconds) - Engine cut following a phase in which the engine management ECU becomes dormant
Down-grade modes if fault present	-
Switching on of the warning lamp and/or warning message	-
Main customer complaints likely	Starting problem
Suspect areas	Engine fuse box Electrical harness Connector

So I would certainly start with the obvious things - as the relay seems to be in a 'stuck' position.

1) Check ALL the wiring plugs on or around the area when you changed the oil - it is not uncommon for people to upset or dislodge a plug or connection.

2) Go for a Reset procedure and follow exactly:

viewtopic.php?f=51&t=61997

If this does not help - allow the car to run for 5-10 minutes to see if it will clear.

[detheridge]

I have a similar symptom regarding vibration, although this one comes up through the throttle pedal. It's not like going over speed bumps, more like an amplified phone vibration as described above. My car's a 2.2 with a 6 speed AWM auto box, so it's not the clutch, obviously. I now realise that I've had it for a while but as my front spheres were knackered (they literally failed overnight) I thought it was just the general banging and crashing from a solid front end. Now the spheres have been replaced I notice the vibration. It doesn't seem to be speed related - it just seems to come and go of its own volition, and I've watched carefully while driving to see if the steering angle starts/stops it. I've also checked the revs and it might (stress might) be around the 1500-2000 revs area, but I'm not sure.
So: anyone else had this symptom?

David.

[GiveMeABreak]

There is also the possibility that the noise can be related to a loose heat shield near the lower front exhaust area. I had an annoying vibration that we couldn't fathom out - took a few technicians and a few miles road testing - finally found the heat shield pate was loose and vibrating mostly at certain revs. Secured it down and end of problem. It's difficult to see, so needs to go up on a ramp and then have a look and a fiddle from the underneath to see if you have any loose guards.

[xf1ref]

I also have a noise that is driving me crazy, is only at idle and only after the engine gets hot. I can hear the sound only inside the car, outside nothing. Is like an rattle sound but not related to engine rotation, like something is vibrating randomly. The clutch and the dual mass have been changed, I have checked all the heat shields from the engine and turbo, I even got an mechanical stethoscope to listen the engine but I can't find the source of the sound.
Now I'm thinking at the worst, or the turbo axle is rattling at idle or the engine crankshaft.