My turn for a C5!

[MikeT]

I pulled up a diagram for a MK1 so it's not specifically your car, James? But it shows three fuses in the heated screen circuit.
One's a Maxi Fuse to the BSI. Then two for the BSI HRS relay itself; the main switched power to the screen and another for the relay coil.

[GiveMeABreak]

Having the VIN would of saved putting 2 diagrams up, but this is the wiring depending on your system. As you can see, the heated windscreen on the version with automatic A/C is routed via the A/C ECU.

Single Air Conditioning Components BSI Built-in systems interface 8125 Driver’s heated rear view mirror 8130 Passenger’s heated rear view mirror 8120 Heated rear screen 0004 Instrument panel 9030 Driver’s door station 9050 Passenger’s door station 1320 Engine ECU 8110 Heated rear screen switch and activation warning lamp Single A/C Connections No. of link signal Nature of signal 1 Mirror demisting Analogue 2 Rear view mirrors deicing control Body VAN 1 3 Mirror demisting Analogue 4 Engine running information CAN 5 Acquisition of the heated rear screen switch status Analogue 6 Request for de-icing Comfort VAN 7 Acquisition of the heated rear screen switch status Analogue 8 Illumination of the deicing warning lamp Analogue 9 Request for illumination of the deicing warning lamp Comfort VAN

Automatic A/C Components BSI Built-in systems interface 8125 Driver’s heated rear view mirror 8130 Passenger’s heated rear view mirror 8120 Heated rear screen 8080 Air conditioning ECU 9030 Driver’s door station 9050 Passenger’s door station 1320 Engine ECU 8110 Heated rear screen switch and activation warning lamp Automatic A/C Connections No. of link signal Nature of signal 1 Mirror demisting Analogue 2 Rear view mirrors deicing control Body VAN 1 3 Mirror demisting Analogue 4 Engine running information CAN 5 Heated rear screen de-icing control Analogue 10 Request for de-icing Comfort VAN 11 Acquisition of the heated rear screen switch status Analogue 12 Illumination of the deicing warning lamp Analogue 13 De-icing function status. Engine running information. Level of load-shedding Comfort VAN

[GiveMeABreak]

I pulled up a diagram for a MK1 so it's not specifically your car, James? But it shows three fuses in the heated screen circuit.
One's a Maxi Fuse to the BSI. Then two for the BSI HRS relay itself; the main switched power to the screen and another for the relay coil.

Those diagrams will vary as Mike says depending on build date and options.

The Maxi Fuse MF4 though supplies power to the BSI - so wouldn't be that or nothing else would work
Maxi Fuse 6 supplies the passenger compartment Fuses - of which I mentioned in my earlier post houses the specific F29 fuse for the heated rear screen.

The only fuses the passenger compartment Fuse box supplies is for:
F29 30A Heated Screen, as said
F30 5A boot lighting.
F36 30A Radio Amp
F37-40 (all 30A) are for electric seats.

So unless your boot lighting isn't working we should be able to rule that one out too. Does the light on the button light up on the HRS button?

[Hell Razor5543]

I am making slow progress with things (although there are DEFINITELY things I will get PTS to do). I currently don't have my Citroen manuals installed, so can somebody (probably Marc! ) let me know the part codes for the clips that hold the heat shielding in place around the exhaust? She is making a horrible noise (not the creaking of the rear arm bearings), and when I looked underneath I saw the heat shielding was sitting on the exhaust.

On the bad news side, limp mode is not linked to the filters. She still is doing it, but she has now also lit the EML (I will have a look later), along with Antipollution Fault. NOW I may have something to work with. I have also found the intercooler flexible pipe has a split, which is probably not helping her much.

I have also found that the reversing switch has probably failed (as the bulbs are good). I was up at the scrappy today, with a list of useful parts, but that doesn't help if there are no suitable donor C5s!. However, I grabbed a couple of common bits from a 407 (including a working reversing switch). Unfortunately, when I can to swap the switch I found that, without a 22mm long split socket I cannot get the switch out. As the clutch is hydraulically operated there is a pipe right in the way of a spanner. Fortunately I have ordered said socket from e-bay for £6.

Barring the reversing lights, ALL of the rear lights are working (including the boot lights, and the boot height switch also works).

[GiveMeABreak]

James - VIN please

[Michel]

I'll wager my motorcycle on the split hose causing the limp mode and eml.

[Hell Razor5543]

VIN VF7**************[VIN obfuscated, can be read by forum staff]

Would a split in the intercooler pipe also explain why she does not accelerate that hard, and the revs won't go above 4,000RPM (when she is not in limp mode)?

[GiveMeABreak]

Here you go:

3 - 7013V8 (Rivet) - 58p 4 - 703018 (Clip) - 34P 6 - 153916 (Rivet) - £1.80

[moizeau]

Does it chuck out black smoke when you boot it? Mine was a bit more extreme, the intercooler pipe came off, but it would drive as normal on a very light throttle, cruise at 60, but smoke if booted with no power due to insufficient air to fuel.

[Hell Razor5543]

Thanks, Marc.

No signs of black smoke, but somewhat gutless (when not in limp mode), Pete.

[moizeau]

So 'no fuel' or 'no fuel and air' in equal ratios, as opposed to just 'no air'
Have you unplugged the MAF to see if it stays the same?

[Michel]

When my Xantia 110 split a boost hose it was just noisier and slower. No smoke.

The Octavia had a broken boost hose only this week. Undriveable, but no smoke. I guess modern engine management senses lack of air...

[Hell Razor5543]

If CitroJim is a bit quiet you can blame me for his absence. I was in his neck of the woods yesterday, and (as I knew I might be able to pop in) I took the "Tour De France" LP I had got from Newbury, and a dodgy blower module. We did meet up, and he re-did the solder joins on that (and one other) module. It was only as he was working on the last one that he mentioned he would probably not be that good for the next few days, because of the solder fumes. I had forgotten his problems with fumes (as I am not so affected; I knew his soldering skills are far greater than mine, which is why I asked), and I wished I had not asked; rather, I should have done the soldering myself and then taken them through to a different room and asked him to check them. Sorry, Jim, I hope that you have not been adversely affected..

I will say this though, the solder joins are a LOT better than I could have done, and that extremely heavy duty iron (once it got hot) managed to redo the join on the leg directly connected to the heat sink. A 125W soldering iron not only generates a decent amount of heat, it hangs onto it as well! His mince pies (with clotted cream) are also at least as good as his soldering.

[CitroJim]

James, it was great to see you on whenever it was - my memory is so bad now I know I saw you but the day escapes me

I love the Tour de France LP and really thank you for bringing it to me!

So, did the modules work?

Just catching up on the forum... Been very low on mental energy for a while and although it's still not good I'm trying to catch up on what I've missed!

Happy to report the solder fumes only caused minor issues this time Rough in the evening but OK come the morning... I must have been as I ran 7.5 miles!

[Hell Razor5543]

Hi, Jim, and it was good to see you on Saturday. I am glad you liked the LP (and am equally glad Pug_XUD_KeenAmatuer found it for you).

One of the modules has definitely been tested and worked. We (Mum and I) went up to Birmingham today, and the cheap module that was in there (that I knew was 'flaky') decided to pack in around Oxford. Fortunately (as I knew it was 'flaky') I had a proper, re-worked, Valeo module in the car, and (once we were at our destination) I swapped it out. The blower now has a lot more oomph, and worked every time. I will test the other proper module, to see if it also works, and I will let you have the 'flaky' one so you can tear it apart to see how it works (or tried and failed to do).

She has thrown me a confusing lifeline. I was not (yet) able to swap the intercooler pipe, as it only arrived today (while I was away). As a 'bodge' fix (and to see if the pipe WAS at fault) I wrapped the old one in duck tape. Unfortunately this did not seem to work. She still dropped into limp mode, and re-lit the EML. I had (after looking at them last night) cleared down the errors (the two I think are relevant are for an airflow inconsistency, and an exhaust issue), to see if (with the pipe 'repaired) she was able to get up and go. This did not happen, and (based on her rev range and acceleration) I felt the turbocharger was not engaging. However, about 5 miles from Tyle Mill (where Mum is moored) she picked up her skirts and RAN! OK, after I dropped Mum off (and we had a cuppa and some biscuits) she was back to 'normal', but the fact she did it once tells me there is unlikely to be anything massively wrong with the turbo circuit. I will swap out the pipe, but I am also wondering if the MAF has become contaminated (it looks slightly oily, but I don't know if that is normal or not). What is the correct (or best) spray to clean it with? I know not to poke around, as there are delicate components in there, but if I can clean it she may respond.

I would say that she is not gutless but lethargic. She WILL accelerate, but slowly (barring the few minutes this evening), and she tops out (when she is not in limp mode) at around 4,000RPM.