Lucas EPIC Injection Pump Overhaul Guide

[shelleyamy]

Quick update:
Decided to have the re-seal work done for me,(couldn't face refitting and still leaking). First couple of calls resulted in "won't touch em mate". So took it into P B Asher in Southampton, the guy there knew what it was and what leaks on em. Agreed to split and replace seals and o rings and then pressure test for £130 and I would supply the kit. And will turn around when I get the kit to them.

"I bought my seal kit from Electro Diesel in Exeter. They got the kit in next day!"
Kev, I got back to late to call Electro, how much was the kit?

Mike

[CitroJim]

Not like this doctor I hope

Nope, not unless he can save a sick EPIC!

Mike, here's a guide to what you need to do to strip as far as replacing the body seal and ESOS seals.

Firstly remove the plastic cover on top of the pump. Then remove the ESOS Valve assembly and the two electric actuators, one on the side for the timing and one on the back of the pump that controls pump stroke. ESOS and actuator removal is easy and obvious but take care that you don't loose the plungers out of the ESOS valves. Most critically, if you do dislodge an ESOS plunger from the valve body note that they have small springs in teir ends and these are critical.

Note that one ESOS has a big red tip. This is the stop solenoid and this tip should alwas be replaced as it is liable to wear and cause problems. Also not the arrangement of O rings where the ESOS valves meet the pump body.

Here's the ESOS and actuator assembly removed:



The Stop ESOS is arrowed.

Remove the static timing port ready for a new O ring to be fitted to it. Notre it is held in with Security Torx screws: The port is shown in this picture:



Next, stand the pump up on end so the HP delivery ports are resting on the bench as shown:



Gently and evenly loosen and remove the four Torx body screws.

Carefully separate the two halves:



And lift the top away from the bottom. If you are lucky the pump plunger will stay put and you'll see this:



More likely though you'll find the plunger rises with the body and the ramp, rollers and pump elements will fly. Be ready to catch them!

Here you can see the body gasket.

Lift the plunger, ramps and rollers out in one piece if you can. This is what it looks like:



Treat these parts very carefully as they are precision components.

The ramps and rollers will come away to reveal the pumping elements. these are the bits that actually pump the diesel to a high enough pressure to inject. They seem incredibly small for what they are!



Remove the big crinkly washer followed by the flat washer above the timing cam so they don't get lost.

Crinkly...



Flat...



Now remove the iron distributor head (three Torx Screws) in readiness to replace the big O ring around it. Note the orientation of the head and the small O ring sealing the filling passage to it.

That completes disassembly. The next part is reassembly...

[CitroJim]

Quick update:
Decided to have the re-seal work done for me,(couldn't face refitting and still leaking). First couple of calls resulted in "won't touch em mate". So took it into P B Asher in Southampton, the guy there knew what it was and what leaks on em. Agreed to split and replace seals and o rings and then pressure test for £130 and I would supply the kit. And will turn around when I get the kit to them.

That's a good deal Mike and surprisingly well priced I saw your post just as I submitted the first part of my disassembly procedure. You might see it's not hard at all really!

[CitroJim]

Reassembly is essentially the reverse of disassembly.

Before starting reassembly, clean everything thoroughly with brake cleaner and compressed air. Lubricate as you go with clean LHM and use Vaseline where you need things to temporarily stick together for reassembly purposes.

Start the reassembly by refitting the distributor head to the body, replacing O rings as you go. Moderately tighten the three Torx bolts. Stand the pump body up on the delivery valves as for disassembly.

Replace the big timing device washer:



Replace the crinkly washer and the body gasket:



Carefully assemble the plunger assembly using Vaseline to hold the pump elements, ramps and rollers in place:





Carefully replace the plunger assembly into the distributor head, lubricating the distributor shaft well with LHM and observing absolute cleanliness and achieve this:



Carefully replace the upper body taking care not to dislodge any part of the plunger assembly. The upper body should go home easily.



Slowly and evenly tighten the four Torx body screws:



Replace the static timing port after fitting a new O ring:



Test the assembly by pressing on the exposed plunger stroke armature shaft at the back of the distributor head. It should move very freely when pressed and only light spring resistance should be felt. It should immediately return once released.



If it is not free to move and/or does not return there is a mistake in the assembly of the plunger components or a part has become dislodged.

Note that in my picture the static timing port has not yet been fitted.

Now rotate the pump driveshaft. It should turn freely. If it is tight or loud tinkling rattles can be heard a part of the plunger assembly may have become dislodged and needs to be investigated.

If all is OK, renew all ESOS seal and plunger tips and reassemble the ESOS assembly onto the pump body.

Replace the actuators making note that the pump stroke actuator has a large flat O ring seal, much like a sphere seal. The timing actuator has a normal O ring seal.

That concludes reassembly. Now refit to vehicle.

The next part will cover how to check the static timing.

[CitroJim]

Static Timing...

When the pump is refitted to the vehicle after work the static timing should be checked and adjusted if necessary. Fundamentally, if the pump and cradle are marked before the pump is removed then this should not be necessary but it's still good to do.

Over to the official words on how to do the job..



And then

[red_dwarfers]

"I bought my seal kit from Electro Diesel in Exeter. They got the kit in next day!"
Kev, I got back to late to call Electro, how much was the kit?

Mike

The complete kit cost £35.66 from Electro Diesel.

They are very helpful and a couple of them have soft spots for old Citroens!

[CitroJim]

The complete kit cost £35.66 from Electro Diesel.

They are very helpful and a couple of them have soft spots for old Citroëns!

Thanks for that Kev, always god to hear of willing suppliers like that

[shelleyamy]

I have the pump back, all clean and shiny and pressure tested.
The only problem is that where the wiring has been disturbed, most of the sheaving has disintegrated. I have tried to cut and cover with shrink tube, but its not going to work as they need full length coverage. Before I try to wrap them all in amalgam tape, does any one know of a liquid type compound that I can paint on, bearing in mind some of the wires are quite thin.
Mike

[CitroJim]

I'd be looking for a replacement harness. Trying to fix the old one, unless you fully re-wire it, is never going to be good or reliable.

I know nothing that can be painted on..

is the cable bad right up to the plug or could you perhaps splice a new multi-way cable in, say, half-way along the old cable and run it to the termination panel?

To be honest, I've never seen one with bad wiring. can you pop up a picture to show us?

[shelleyamy]

Here you go.
Found this stuff, looks like what I need. Liquid electrical tape.
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What do you think?

[CitroJim]

Gosh

What do you think?

No, no and thrice no. As I said before. Replace completely...

[shelleyamy]

Too late, I need to get it back together this weekend, and can't find any looms for sale, so I will get it MOT'd and keep my eyes open for a loom.

Is it a simple swap when I do get one?
One more question, do you have to use the nuts to pull the pump back into place, it feels very tight to get back on?
Thanks, Mike

[CitroJim]

Yes, the loom should be easy enough to replace Mike and the good this is that it can be done in-situ.

Be bloody careful you make sure none of those wires can short as there's a big risk of damaging the ECU and then you'll be in a very, very deep world of pain.

The problem you're facing with pulling the pump back into place is the taper on the driveshaft going into the sprocket. It should slide nearly fully home with out too much difficulty so long as everything is spotless and the woodruff key is in the right pace. Often it leaps out of place and causes the sprocket not to go home. Also the key can make a bid for freedom and get itself lost in the timing gear so it's always a good idea to stuff loads of rags around the vicinity to catch it and have a magnet nearby. I also coat the key and key-way in Vaseline to keep it in place.

If all sis good that should get you within a few mm of home and the final bit can be done by replacing the driveshaft nut and doing it up with the pump hard against the flange studs and before you fit the delivery pipes and time it.

[MadmartUK]

hi all thanks for info. mines leaking. kit ordered from ian @ electro diesel £39 inc vat and postage .
will do next week.
Is there bolt holes to lock pulley so i dont have to do cam belt timing?

[CitroJim]

Is there bolt holes to lock pulley so i dont have to do cam belt timing?

Yes there is, two of them that take M8 bolts into the pump cradle casting.

Have fun with the rebuild and all the best for a successful one!