I have recently fitted a replacement cylinder head to my ZX Td, along with a new cam belt. My question is: Having tensioned the belt IAW the Haynes 'book of lies',. I have noticed the belt seem to vibrate a bit between the diesel pump pulley and the cam pulley, when you rev the engine, its only a matter of millimetres but I'm not sure if its normal, would it be wise to recheck the belt tension? Any comments would be helpful/reassuring. Many thanks
Gareth
Flappy cam belt
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Dave Burns
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If you have done the job correctly and all the component's of the belt tract are ok then it will have to be considered normal.
But because of the damage that will be caused if it lets go and for peace of mind.....you know what.
Turn the crankshaft forwards slowly by hand for about 1/4 turn and stop, don't let it go backwards, and don't stop it where the camshaft may try to go forwards under valve spring pressure, release and then tighten the tensioner roller to take up any slack in the belt.
Dave
p.s I said a 1/4 turn because the engine had allready been running thus the belt will have settled, otherwise at belt change send the belt through at least two complete circuit's of the pulleys by hand to settle it before final tensioning.
But because of the damage that will be caused if it lets go and for peace of mind.....you know what.
Turn the crankshaft forwards slowly by hand for about 1/4 turn and stop, don't let it go backwards, and don't stop it where the camshaft may try to go forwards under valve spring pressure, release and then tighten the tensioner roller to take up any slack in the belt.
Dave
p.s I said a 1/4 turn because the engine had allready been running thus the belt will have settled, otherwise at belt change send the belt through at least two complete circuit's of the pulleys by hand to settle it before final tensioning.
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ukmobileman
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hi i am the chap who had the 306 head from hainford -sorry mate! having done several pug/cit diesel belts i always reset tension once i have run engine as i have noticed the same thing as you . did that 405 head go straight on your zx td? (i have a zx td that i have to help my mate with) that 306 head needed the oil gallery tapped and blankind plug to seal it off for it to fit my xantia also had it checked and skimmed as well
Yes, it went on fine it took a while though. I had Norwich engine centre check the face for level and it was sweet, so I just put it on. The fiddliest thing was the manifolds at the back. Who in there right mind uses allen head bolts to put on a manifold?? C'mon Citroen what where you thinking!<img src=icon_smile.gif border=0 align=middle> Back to the original problem. I have already thaught about doing that with the belt, the cars done just over a 100miles now since I completed the head. So it will probably be about right for a quick re-tension. Yours went on alright in the end did it? Cheers for responding. Regards
Gareth
Gareth
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ukmobileman
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yeh all back together ok
but not started yet as i have a leaky fuel filter houseing (awaiting replacement). i bolted turbo to head then put head on as i had one hell of a job getting it off ( had to remove studs from head in car) - even with the enging block held away from bulk head with a wooden block there was not enough room to remove it! also with the amount of hassle with mounting/tensioner/belt if i ever had to do a head or gasket again i would take engine out ( as several people told me to do !) and as i have a engine crane i wish i had!!
G J Wright
but not started yet as i have a leaky fuel filter houseing (awaiting replacement). i bolted turbo to head then put head on as i had one hell of a job getting it off ( had to remove studs from head in car) - even with the enging block held away from bulk head with a wooden block there was not enough room to remove it! also with the amount of hassle with mounting/tensioner/belt if i ever had to do a head or gasket again i would take engine out ( as several people told me to do !) and as i have a engine crane i wish i had!!
G J Wright
Sorry to carry on like the "marines" <img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle> (Arrive just as the battle has been won) but I recently did a cambelt on a 16 V BX and discovered in getting all the information together prior to doing the job, that Citroen in their Manuals are insistant that the tensioners for adjusting it MUST be turned anti-clockwise when adjusted.
If they are turned clockwise, it alters the position that the tensioner presses against the belt and can cause a symptom which makes the belt seem out of adjustment by having too large a distance between two of the pulleys; the tensioner & the water pump.
I don't know what kind of system the diesel uses, but if it is anything similar to this, it would appear that the standard procedure is to "readjust" the belt which then increases the tension on (in the case of the 16V) the water pump which in turn causes premature failure of the pump. This was what had happened to my car prior to me buying it.
Not trying to put a cat amongst the pidgeons, but thought I'd throw it into the ring in case it was of any assistance.
Alan S
If they are turned clockwise, it alters the position that the tensioner presses against the belt and can cause a symptom which makes the belt seem out of adjustment by having too large a distance between two of the pulleys; the tensioner & the water pump.
I don't know what kind of system the diesel uses, but if it is anything similar to this, it would appear that the standard procedure is to "readjust" the belt which then increases the tension on (in the case of the 16V) the water pump which in turn causes premature failure of the pump. This was what had happened to my car prior to me buying it.
Not trying to put a cat amongst the pidgeons, but thought I'd throw it into the ring in case it was of any assistance.
Alan S
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RichardW
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Alan,
Fortunately, the diesel tensioner can only be moved one way, and it's spring loaded, so it just a case of letting it go, rotating the belt, and then tightening the retaining bolts.
I can identify with G J's comments re taking the engine out for a TD head swap. I got the head off the BX complete with the manifolds and turbo, but it was a stuggle (especially getting it back in!). There is no way I would have got the inlet manifold off with the head in the car, as the middle bolt you can't get to (the TD head removal brigade will know which one I mean!) had to be undone with a pair of Stilsons. Next time I might drop off the exhaust manifold nuts, then lift the head across to clear the front plate with the camshaft, then pull it forwards off the exhaust manifold leaving the turbo behind in the engine bay.
Next time???? Arrrggghhh - what am I saying!!!! (my mate has 100k Xantia TD, so I'm just waiting for the call to assist him with a head gasket change!)
Richard
Fortunately, the diesel tensioner can only be moved one way, and it's spring loaded, so it just a case of letting it go, rotating the belt, and then tightening the retaining bolts.
I can identify with G J's comments re taking the engine out for a TD head swap. I got the head off the BX complete with the manifolds and turbo, but it was a stuggle (especially getting it back in!). There is no way I would have got the inlet manifold off with the head in the car, as the middle bolt you can't get to (the TD head removal brigade will know which one I mean!) had to be undone with a pair of Stilsons. Next time I might drop off the exhaust manifold nuts, then lift the head across to clear the front plate with the camshaft, then pull it forwards off the exhaust manifold leaving the turbo behind in the engine bay.
Next time???? Arrrggghhh - what am I saying!!!! (my mate has 100k Xantia TD, so I'm just waiting for the call to assist him with a head gasket change!)
Richard