BX front struts- yet another cure...
Moderator: RichardW
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BX front struts- yet another cure...
Lower the suspension fully, remove the vent pipes from the strut and immerse the cleaned ends in a jar of LHM. Select maximum height.
Replace the vent pipes. This method lubricates the inside of the strut. The ride is transformed and it will last longer than greasing the outer strut shaft.
Replace the vent pipes. This method lubricates the inside of the strut. The ride is transformed and it will last longer than greasing the outer strut shaft.
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They don't usually contain LHM They usually contain air. The leakage rate into the outer strut is minimal or more often none at all so the felt wipers dry up. This causes the stiction and groaning of the bronze bearing. Injecting a deliberate shot of LHM is certain to get to the bits other beers don't reach!
Cheers Tom [;)]
I certainly see the point of your idea, and you get my vote [:)]
As Bob writes, there are in fact some LHM in the struts, from seepage of the cylinder seal, but this never reaches such amounts it can lubricate the upper part where the bronze bearing and felt washer resides - UNLESS of course you have the dreaded overpressure problem from gross failure of the seal [}:)]
Your idea is applicable to all hydraulic Citroen models using McPherson type hydraulic front struts [8D]
It certainly is a much easier approach than greasing the protruding rod under the gaiter [8]
I certainly see the point of your idea, and you get my vote [:)]
As Bob writes, there are in fact some LHM in the struts, from seepage of the cylinder seal, but this never reaches such amounts it can lubricate the upper part where the bronze bearing and felt washer resides - UNLESS of course you have the dreaded overpressure problem from gross failure of the seal [}:)]
Your idea is applicable to all hydraulic Citroen models using McPherson type hydraulic front struts [8D]
It certainly is a much easier approach than greasing the protruding rod under the gaiter [8]
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I made a detailed write up based on Tom's method : Lubing front struts
Thanks to Tom Sheppard, it's now a simple matter lubing the front struts [8D]
Thanks to Tom Sheppard, it's now a simple matter lubing the front struts [8D]
LHM is made up of what are effectively small strands of molecules. As the LHM gets pumped round the system there strands break down into smaller strands or individual molecules. Its obviously not visable to the human eye, but old LHM is about as usefull as throwing Extra Virgin Olive oil at the thing, it wont lubricate as well and will rapidly run out. Its also the reason why then you change the LHM the back end stops sinking as the chains of LHM molecules are too big to past through the seals, but after a bit of use the LHM breaks down and can pass through again
Its quite heavily affected by temperature as well, nice to live in the cold UK climate!
Its quite heavily affected by temperature as well, nice to live in the cold UK climate!
I'm defo with Vanny on this -
It's a bit hard to believe that oil's used in a car is a "mechanical wear" component, but so it is for reasons explained by Vanny.
This is true for all the oils used : hydraulic LHM oil, engine oil, and gear oil.
As these oils are different types according to different usage, they also have different "wear limits".
You can not judge by the visual look, other than the obvious colour change which is always a telltale.
I've seen "economy maintained" cars with engine oils black/thin as ink, because of high contents of sooths. Such an engine oil only have one property left : cooling. But worse, it's got a new property : it has become a grinding fluid internal to engine because of the high carbon sooth contents [:(]
It's a bit hard to believe that oil's used in a car is a "mechanical wear" component, but so it is for reasons explained by Vanny.
This is true for all the oils used : hydraulic LHM oil, engine oil, and gear oil.
As these oils are different types according to different usage, they also have different "wear limits".
You can not judge by the visual look, other than the obvious colour change which is always a telltale.
I've seen "economy maintained" cars with engine oils black/thin as ink, because of high contents of sooths. Such an engine oil only have one property left : cooling. But worse, it's got a new property : it has become a grinding fluid internal to engine because of the high carbon sooth contents [:(]
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