BX heater fan max speed relay - WHERE ?
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Blower noise issue (full speed) ??
Reliability issue - i.e. blower/harness not taking the full power for long ??
Hmmmm.... will definately try tomorrow if full speed setting on the knob resembles a direct battery feed to blower - as I think mine's a bit lean on air - even though everything seems to work - and motor brushes replaced last summer.
There should be a vague - but still distinct - click from the max speed relay - noticeable with engine off & ignition on.
This is a DK imported '89 BX16
Interesting issue fellas....
Reliability issue - i.e. blower/harness not taking the full power for long ??
Hmmmm.... will definately try tomorrow if full speed setting on the knob resembles a direct battery feed to blower - as I think mine's a bit lean on air - even though everything seems to work - and motor brushes replaced last summer.
There should be a vague - but still distinct - click from the max speed relay - noticeable with engine off & ignition on.
This is a DK imported '89 BX16
Interesting issue fellas....
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Oilyspanner - the relay is located on the right hand steering wheel support bracket on my TZD. Interestingly I've studied my original speed control PCB and come to the conclusion that it would not energise this relay under any condition (it does NOT agree with circuit diagram in Haynes manual). I have received a replacement from a scrappy that has a PCB of a diferent design to my original. My original had a carbon track printed directly on the PCB, rather like a potentiometer, and the wiper bears directly on this (and wears it out over the years). The replacement however has a different wiper (sort of three fingers) which actual bear on to radiating metallic tracks which connect, under some semi transparent protective plastic cover (not found on my original pcb), to the resistive compound. This replacement pcb does cause the relay to energise at 'full' speed - which obviously bypasses the variable control elements of the 'volume' control and stops it burning out (like what mine did). I did remove the full speed relay from the steering bracket and teased the works out of the fairly small box. The contacts were as new - no signs of pitting or burning what-so-ever. I doubt that this relay has ever switched in the cars life. Now to glue it back together and refit to steering bracket (everything is currently hanging out under the dash!). Pity that my replacement control unit (fan housing) didn't work (fan runs about half speed all the time - except when relay operates to make it run at full speed). The scrappy is sending me another one. If that also fails I may be in the market for a 'new' one.
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Tomsheppard - yes the picture on your web site is identical to my original PCB - and I agree, after pondering long and hard at both the PCB and Mr Haynes wiring diagram, I too have concluded that its just 'not wired up right'.
I'm so relieved that you have confirmed this as I was starting to get paranoid about it - I mean who really cares if the high speed relay works or not - it hasn't for 14 years, so long as the fan 'goes' and can be controlled. I've been reminded of this 'view' several times over the last couple of weeks by 'her indoors'.
I'm so relieved that you have confirmed this as I was starting to get paranoid about it - I mean who really cares if the high speed relay works or not - it hasn't for 14 years, so long as the fan 'goes' and can be controlled. I've been reminded of this 'view' several times over the last couple of weeks by 'her indoors'.
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Ok so now we're all agreed on it. Here is the definitive how to:
First: cut the very thin vertical track in the bottom right hand corner of the PCB. Second: solder a piece of wire between the two ends where there is an obvious gap in the track. That is all you need to do. You may not need to remove the board if your soldering iron has a long enough lead. Takes no more than ten minutes.
First: cut the very thin vertical track in the bottom right hand corner of the PCB. Second: solder a piece of wire between the two ends where there is an obvious gap in the track. That is all you need to do. You may not need to remove the board if your soldering iron has a long enough lead. Takes no more than ten minutes.
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<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by tomsheppard</i>
You may not need to remove the board if your soldering iron has a long enough lead. Takes no more than ten minutes.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
[8D] Tom [8D]
- does this in fact mean the board is left in place in control panel - just removing the knobs and under-knobs-facia piece ?
You may not need to remove the board if your soldering iron has a long enough lead. Takes no more than ten minutes.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
[8D] Tom [8D]
- does this in fact mean the board is left in place in control panel - just removing the knobs and under-knobs-facia piece ?
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I think it is possible to do it in situ - just make sure you've got the PCB as shown on Tom Sheppards web site. You'll know I suppose 'cos the type that I've now got triggers the relay as it supposed to. Dashboard almost back together now - just the heater fan and housing to re-attach under the top grill on the outside (tomorrows job).
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Just for reference,and to round off the thread, the relay is mounted on the base of the steering column bracket, very low and to the right-hand side (from observation on an '88 rhd car on which the relay WAS working). I'd have taken a photo but didn't have the camera to hand.
You may find it "easiest" to see by looking upwards from a point somewhere near the pedals - so long as you're able to get your head into the footwell area of a BX without causing injury or distress!
Alternatively, you can remove the choke/mirror/foglight switch panel and peer in from there.
You may find it "easiest" to see by looking upwards from a point somewhere near the pedals - so long as you're able to get your head into the footwell area of a BX without causing injury or distress!
Alternatively, you can remove the choke/mirror/foglight switch panel and peer in from there.
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Is it likely this mod could cure the problem on one of my BXes ?
Nothing happens until I select max fan speed, then the fan starts to trickle over as if position 1 has been selected. If I do this with the radio on AM I cannot hear the fan switch on until it actually reaches max. Wots think lads, or any other ideas please.
Nothing happens until I select max fan speed, then the fan starts to trickle over as if position 1 has been selected. If I do this with the radio on AM I cannot hear the fan switch on until it actually reaches max. Wots think lads, or any other ideas please.
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Mikeg - this fault you describe is almost certainly the electronic unit in the ducting near top the fan. Carrying out the modification to the control would give you max speed when selected full on - but electronic unit is really responsible for controlling the speed. This is exactly how my original post started - and was fixed with a new speed control unit. Im saw one on ebay recently for a few quid (306 unit is the same I think) - but expect to pay around 40-50 quid for a dealer part.