xantia speedo

david62 · Post by **david62** » 19 Sep 2009, 13:14

hi speedo getting worse....first of all stopped working after bout 75miles then 25 and now bout 15miles...could it be sensor in gearbox if so approx how much are they and what sort of job is it plz[1997 19td xantia]ave cleaned connection etc..many thanx david..ps is it a main dealer only part?

Post by **CitroJim** » 19 Sep 2009, 13:25

The sensor is easy David, just one bolt and ot pulls out of the final drive. You know where it is if you've cleaned the connections. Just be careful of the gear on the end of it.

It's a dealer-only part but common to many PSA vehicles. A scrapyard might well provide.

If not that then the speed head is failing and again, a scrapyard will be the best source. I believe all electric speedos are the same but do try to get one from a 1.9TD just in case. It may just be easiest to swap over complete instrument packs if the sensor proves OK.

Post by **Peter.N.** » 19 Sep 2009, 14:55

On the XM dry joints on the instrument panel connector sockets are quite common, don't know if the Xantia is the same though. Jim?

kyb · Post by **kyb** » 19 Sep 2009, 18:03

Does it work again if you hit on the dashboard. ?

Had a problem with the speedo on my xantia. Just punched the dashboard and it would start working again. Did this for miles.
But fixed it last week. Just touched up the soldering on the speedo in the dashboard and it was all fine again. Worst of all i had the exact same problem on a bmw e30 5 years ago, small world

Followed this tutorial: http://www.schaalbouw.nl/citroen/blog051007.htm

david62 · Post by **david62** » 19 Sep 2009, 18:06

thanx for your help...ave tried the banging on the dash but nothing..

Penguin · Post by **Penguin** » 24 Sep 2009, 12:37

kyb wrote:Does it work again if you hit on the dashboard. ?

Had a problem with the speedo on my xantia. Just punched the dashboard and it would start working again. Did this for miles.
But fixed it last week. Just touched up the soldering on the speedo in the dashboard and it was all fine again. Worst of all i had the exact same problem on a bmw e30 5 years ago, small world

Followed this tutorial: http://www.schaalbouw.nl/citroen/blog051007.htm

I have this problem with mine. Been like it for about 18 months now, I'm either at 0 or 50mph! Can't really be bothered to take the dash out to fix it though.

andmcit · Post by **andmcit** » 24 Sep 2009, 12:48

My father has written a brill blog/piccies too for this repair so I'll dig it out and
type in up here - he's still largely analogue with it being manuscript!

Andrew

andmcit · Post by **andmcit** » 24 Sep 2009, 22:00

Assuming you have a son who has to remove the lower kneepad dash
covering, the steering wheel (with airbag) and the shrouding, the 'tray'
cover in front of the speedo and the speedo head itself the following is
how to actually fix the speedo. Penned by my Pops:

The speedo head on m y 2.0i Xantia auto has been playing up jumping to
50mph and staying there, although the mileage recorders were working OK.

As all the spare instrument clusters had mechanical speedos and this one
was electronic I decided to bite the bullet and have a go at repairing it,
following advice from the forum that the symptoms was a dry or broken
solder joint.

I started from the back by removing the screws holding the whole cover
and the circuit board, only to find that access to the speedo was from the
front! I had to put it all back together, thankfully without breaking anything.

The subsequent, successful repair, only took me about 15 minutes in total!
It all came to bits with just a 6 star TORX screwdriver size T-10!

[1] Remove the 6 screws holding the shroud

[2] Remove 5 screws holding the speedo head into the frame - two front, 3 rear
[3] Unplug 3 pin plug onto the circuit board

[4] Removed speedo head looks like this (8695, 8696)

[5] Examine the printed circuit board

The likely culprits are one of the four soldered posts. The broken solder on
one of the pins can clearly be seen in the photos. The pin was loose on the
circuit board.

I used a touch of solder flux and a 12w solder iron and the original solder
just jumped back into place!

The rebuild was, as all good (old) manuals say, a reversal of the removal
process. And refitted by your son!

Way to go pops!

Andrew

Post by **RichardW** » 25 Sep 2009, 08:14

One of the jobs I have been meaning to do on mine since I got it...

I think on a S2 you can remove the panel without removing the wheel - it's possible to remove the upper column shround, and this should give enough access to remove the switch bar and then the screws at the bottom of the cluster. Of course, it will probably turn out to be easier to remove the wheel in the end....! I'll let you know one day when I've found the time to do it

Post by **Peter.N.** » 25 Sep 2009, 09:06

Hi Richard

You dont even have to remove the shroud, if you drop the steering wheel right down and towards you the screws can be reached if you have a torx screwdriver. Once you know where all the screws are you can have the panel out in a few minutes.

Peter

Post by **Rhothgar** » 10 Oct 2020, 10:32

Lovely write-up and photos andmcit. Nice and clear so I think I am going to now go and throw myself into this repair...

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